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To Reach the Unreachable Hose

  • Thread starter Thread starter JLR
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JLR

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3,237
Hatteras Model
74' COCKPIT MY (1995 - 1999)
I need to replace a one way valve in the discharge line for one of my heads. The valve is located just aft of my gen set room and forward of my VIP head. It is clamped to a stringer running through the bilge. I have a call in to Bruce Morrison to advise. However, short of cutting a new access panel through the floor, is it possible that Hatteras would have place a check valve in this discharge line that cannot be reached from any existing access hatch? Also, because the hose is clamped to the stringer, I cannot simple pull it out. Is my only alternative cutting a new access hatch in the floor under the carpet or cutting a new hole(s) and running a new hose, leaving the old one in place but not used? Funny thing. This is the first time in more than 20 years of owning a Hatteras that access is a real issue.
 
My 53 motor yacht has the same situation. The intake thru hull is under the head and I can only get my finger tips on it through its acces panel. I think to replace it I would have to remove the head and cut another access panel. So short answer is yes Hatteras must have installed this plumbing and then put in the floor. John
 
My 53 motor yacht has the same situation. The intake thru hull is under the head and I can only get my finger tips on it through its acces panel. I think to replace it I would have to remove the head and cut another access panel. So short answer is yes Hatteras must have installed this plumbing and then put in the floor. John

John is correct. I'm not sure there is space to run a new hose either. This was a poor design.
 
John, A customer of mine owns your same model Hatt. He had all of that apart recently. I'm sure he can advise. His email is: cutlas3 at yahoo dot com
 
Are you SURE there is no access panel? In our 53 I am STILL (after 12 years) occasionally finding a panel that I didn't realize was a panel. In the rear of various cabinets, for example.

The number of OEM panels probably changed over the years but our 1980 53MY has, for example, a total of 14 panels in the flooring of the master SR, the passageway and the guest SR. I haven't found anything that cannot be reached SO FAR - admittedly some require considerable body contortion/stretching and sometimes a bit of creative thinking! ;)

A tall, skinny teen would be the perfect choice for the work! :)

Scarlett - interesting! The thru-hull fittings for our heads are all in easily accessible locations. Obviously there was considerable difference from year to year or maybe even boat to boat the same year. I wonder if there was a "standard" or if various assembly crews had their own way of doing it..
 
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I am curious.... my 1984 61MY.... does it have one way valves on the toilet hoses or at the outflow seacock in the genset compartment? Can I remove the one way valves as two of my toliets appear to have restriced black water flow overboard.

Next question is why does the forward head have its water intake near the port engine room bulkead.....this just seems so far back in the boat. Why did Hatteras not put the water intake in the forward hull compartment? Is there any reason NOT to bypass this old water intake and install a new water intake in the forward compartment?

Thanks.
 
When I switched that head to fresh water all I could do was plug the end of the salt water intake line and just stick it in the bilge, could not even get enough leverage to turn off the seacock. This best boat worker is a 3 armed Chinaman who is 3 feet tall. John
 
Thanks to all and especially Eric for the lead. John
 
I am glad you caught my Don Quixote reference.
 
New hose(s) installed. Left old hoses in place and capped them. New holes had to be drilled to get new hoses in. However, the vented loop on the discharge side of my VIP pump was removed. Now, the head is continuing to fill with water until it reaches the waterline. It is salt water fed. I seem to be able to stop the backfilling if I continue to flush for an additional ten seconds once the bowl is empty. Not sure why that would make a difference. Any ideas?
 
>> It is water fed. I seem to be able to stop the backfilling if I continue to flush for an additional ten seconds once the bowl is empty. Not sure why that would make a difference. Any ideas?
<<

You are getting some air in the line that breaks a siphon effect??

Bobk
 
<<

You are getting some air in the line that breaks a siphon effect??

Bobk

I have to agree with you, I'd put a vented loop back into to prevent the siphon effect, make sure it is above the water line.
 
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FWIW, The instructions for the OEM Galley Maid heads, which were included with the original paperwork that came with a Hatt state that the heads should have a vented loop above the waterline. Oddly enough, despite the fact that GM's instructions say they must have a vented loop, to my knowledge, Hatt never actually followed those instructions! They installed the head pump without vented loops, while, at the same time supplying the GM instructions to the new owner.

I have found on our 53 that if the rotors/stators in the OEM GM pumps are in good shape, the vented loop is not necessary but any wear at all can cause the head to fill to the waterline. This can occur on the intake or output side. A properly located vented loop (above the water line) will eliminate the problem

I ASSUME that Hatt elected not to install the loops to avoid any odor in the boat from a vent once they verified that the OEM GM would not cause a problem for at least long enough to get past the warranty period! :)
 
I'll ask him to make sure to reconnect the vented loop.
 

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