To paint or not to paint....

[SeaEric]

I have recently looked at a very late (among the last built) 1987 53' Classic MY. The aluminum window frames are painted, and the paint is failing. An aquaintance with a 53 ED has said not to buy a boat with painted windows as they are a maintenance nightmare. Did this boat come from Hatteras with painted windows? Why are some boats painted and others not? How often do the painted windows need to be redone? Is it possible to remove the paint and get back to the bronze anodized finish?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

My 53EDMY does not have painted windows (1985), but our 43DC did (1975). I used a razor scraper and was able to carefully remove all of the paint. The result was the original annodized aluminum frame in perfect condition. I don't think Hatteras ever painted the frames. It was likely done by a previous owner. I wouldn't be affraid of painted frames as they are not anymore problem than any other part of a boat like this. It just depends on the look that you like. I prefer the original Hatt look. Right down to the type of screw used to hold on the rub rail, but that is just me. If the rest of the boat is acceptable to you, don't let this be a sticking point.

 

[Tom Ipock]

If the option were mine, I would definately go with "unpainted frames". I have had both, and the original anodized frames are pretty much trouble free, except for the occasional little hole that will start to blister out - they are minimal and easy enough to control. With the painted windows, that's another story. The problem is that the frames are aluminum, and the screws are a different alloy - whatever paint is applied over the screws will only last a few years. Then when you redo them, it turns into a much bigger job than you planned. I took out all of the screws in my frames, bought new SS screws and primed them with two coats of primer on the threads and under the heads before re-installing them, then repainting the frames. That helped, but after three years now, I can see signs of them starting to blister right at the screw.
I can not for the life of me figure why Hatteras didn't use SS frames???? That to me, along with their total lack of thought on how you get equipment/machinery out of the boat when it's time to replace it, were their two biggest flaws in their yachts.
But, I still love my Hatt!!!
Tom

 

[67hat34c]

Anodizing is the best coating for aluminum. However dissimilar metals will always corrode. Stainless screws through aluminum will cause problem when you introduce moisture.

I think that replacing the windows and using 5200 instead of screws is the way to go. Would think that it would hold up much longer, painted or anodized.

 

[Banshee36]

You have to use TEFGEL on the screwheads, when using SS fasteners on paint window frames, even then it still will blister, just takes longer. Tiara Yachts has plastic washers that they use on their windows.

 

[67hat34c]

if you fasten the frames with 5200 why would you need screws. install , let 5200 dry, pull screws and fill the holes with marine tex.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I had the aluminum frames on my Hatteras painted when the rest of the boat was painted; if the painters are skilled at painting aluminum, they will come out well. Mine were painted with aluminum colored Imron and clear coated. So far, so good. I agree, though, that if it is not done right, there will be problems, and quickly. I did use stainless screws and they have not been a problem, but the potential is there. (no pun intended) I believe that originally Hatteras may have used Monel screws, which may be less galvanically active versus aluminum than stainless. Monel screws are still available from Sam's, but they are quite a lot more expensive than stainless- 3X as much, I think.
I would not put the windows in with 5200. If broken, they will be hell to remove. It is not a load-bearing assembly. If I were to remount the window frame, I would use 4200 or something similar. That way, if they ever have to come out, it will be doable without major destruction. I would not rely on AntiBond to get frames out that were caulked in with 5200, no matter how good AntiBond is supposed to be.
Finally, if the frames were anodized and then painted, the anodizing is probably still there under the primer. Unless it was ground off to prep the frames when they were painted.
Which boat? I'll look if you want. I'm in your area.