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Time to replace the bridge enclosure

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jackman
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Jackman

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
782
Hatteras Model
32' FLYBRIDGE FISHERMAN (1983 - 1987)
My enclosure was damaged from one of the offshore hurricanes we had on the east coast this year. I'm replacing it and would like some advice. The guys who I had draw up an estimate gave me the following:

Labor 43hrs $2,365

Canvas 29yrds sunbrella $609

Glass

Option 1: 5 sheets crystal clear 20/20 40GG $560

Option 2: 5 sheets stratoglass 40GG $1150

travel $220 (boat is less than a mile from their shop)

(Total for the job $4756.40 with stratoglass)

This is for a 1985 32ft Flybridge. They are going to use the fram that is already there and are making a completely new enclosure including the back, so I now will be complaetely enclosed.

Any advice on what I should have them use? Price right? Whats the difference between stratoglass and crystal clear? I know how to work on boats, not sew, so (no pun intended) this isn't my forte!

Thanks!
 
I have strataglass and it is holding up well. Not sure what crystal clear is but I suspect it's similar to eisenglass which IS inferior to Strataglass. Strataglass is thicker, more scratch resistent and lasts longer. Sometimes you DO get what you pay for.

Kinda wish something would happen to my softtop. I'd replace it with a fiberglass hardtop with overhead electronics box and a full EZ2CY enclosure. Now THAT'S a flybridge! :rolleyes:
 
I'd love a hardtop as well but under my current setup its not a good idea. I have my boat hauled out of our marina every year by hydraulic trailer. The guy pulls her right out of the water at our deep boat launch and takes her to out place about 4mi down the road and sets her up in the driveway. That way I can do all of my work all winterlong while being near the comforts of home, not that my boats not home. The entire operation costs me $5 per foot and less than $100 for winterization. Its much easier to deal with a ragtop because I have to lower everything to make the powerlines...and its close. Probably within a foot. A hardtop would probably make this impossible.
 
Sunbrella and strata glass is a great combo. Price seems fair to me as long as you know their workmanship is good. Although the extra charge for travel would annoy me. I assume you have previous good experience or several good reports on this canvas shop? Nothing worse than a bad looking, poorly executed bimini and enclosure to ruin the appearance of a nice boat. Now is a good time to get this contracted and done. Spring will be here before you know it and these guys will all be booked up.
 
Hi Jackman,

Just for reference:

My entire soft top and enclosure were replaced three seasons ago. I choose the Stratoglass product, It has an excellent reputation, and so far mine looks brand new. I'm not a Sunbrella fan. It's nice when new but in lighter colors it stains, and if you try to clean it, leaks develop.
A friend at our local marina suggested a product called Stamoid ( may be spelled incorrectly) I think it's a Dupont fabric. It's hard to explain exactly what it's properties are, other than it's fairly soft and elastic. It's very easy to clean, durable, and looks excellent. The best part is if you get a bird mess on your bimini the rain will wash it away. This is not the typical vinyl impregnated fabric, it's completely different. Mine matches the Hatteras off white perfectly, I guess it comes in several colors. The drawbacks are, it's expensive and not all the canvas guys handle it. You also need special thread to sew it with. I paid $5,000 for a complete enclosure on a 36 Hatteras, the existing frame was modified as I didn't like the style, my price included everything, even those rubber snubbers that keep the stainless steel from rubbing against the Stratoglass. My original quote was higher but the marina agreed not to accept a commission for allowing the work to be done inside their storage area.

Good Luck,
Tony D
 
Hi Jackman,

I had the sides of our 37 half top redone about two years ago. We went with Stamoid and Eisenglass. The Stamoid is nice stuff and relatively easy to clean; is holding up very well. I clean the glass after each outing and polish it with T210 about once a month. I think I had the contractor use a cream color that matches Hat pretty well. I may have the catalog on it and I'll email the info if you want. I had three horsehoe windows in the front, one on each side, one large window in the aft panel and a zip up door at the ladder at a cost of $3,500. (no new metal frame work)

I met with the canvas contractor the other day and will replace the soft top this winter. He recommended using a reinforced vinyl for the top instead of Stamoid, because the Stamoid stretches over time and will require periodic adjustment in the top stringing to take up the expansion. It does seem to stretch. I plan to go with the vinyl. He felt that as the vinyl shrinks it will be drum tight, just the way you want it on top. The seems will be welded (heat sealed) and leak tight. The cost of the top is about $800 and includes remaoval and installation of the new material. It does not include electronics removal; I pull the radar scanner and light out of the way.

Check out the contractors work through the grapevine before you sign a contract, and get a firm delivery date!! You don't want to chase the guy to finish after he has your deposit!

Nick
 
Out of curiosity I called a well known place within driving distance from me who can build a custom hard top for my boat including a lot of extras and install for a total of about $4600. They said that the top can be removed easily by loosening 4 to 6 bolts. The top weighs about 150lbs so a guy on each side of the boat and one in the middle could easily lower it down at the end of the season. Now I have to think about this. Don't know which to get now! I was wondering if the panels of strataglass would be easier and cheaper to make for whoever I have do it because of the nature of how the hard tops interface with the glass.
 
The strataglass panel price itself will probably be near the same. Instead of zippers to attach to a bimini, the panels will require a rubber trim sewn in at the top that slides into a metal track. That will require labor and metal track (don't use the plastic track!) parts as it needs to be attached to the new hard top. Sounds like more materials and a bit more labor.
 
Price is about typical, which is outrageous.
Stratglass does not roll up well...Suggest you go with "smile up" openings and arrange to button them to the underside of your top..perhaps with nylon strap extensions if necessary to reach a fastening position. Raising a flap and buttoning to the underside of the top is MUCH faster than rolling and MUCH less destructive to the clear material. Rolling scratches and may be impossible in cold weather. Don't bother with zippers and extra openings unless there is room to actually open them...often the support frame blocks any real vent opening.
 
Well for the same price about I think I would rather have a removeable hardtop....Strataglass is the best of the clear products. It does have to be stored flat, I think. There is a stuff called EZ2CY which is supposed to be good too. Regular isinglass has dropped to a distant third in preference because the new products are so good.
FWIW you may find that if you have a hard top you don't use the curtains that much. I think if I were going to get a complete bridge enclosure I would want a hard top if the price were the same. You will need the sliding metal track for the curtains, I have some of that on my boat in a different application and it does hold up very well- the metal not the plastic. The plastic is junk.
Another choice would be a folding bimini without curtains, which is what I have? would that meet your needs? It would cost less. Frankly most of the time mine is folded and I just wear a hat.
 
FYI

EZ2CY- Does not fold, Roll, it's very stiff, you pretty much can only use it in a flat configuration. It is nice though as long as you can deal with what is almost a hard Plexiglas window.

We need the full enclosure up north here to keep warm on those frosty July mornings.

TonyD
 
WOW..After reading all these posts I am very glad that our later 36C has an inside helm. All we need on the flybridge is our cheap, little, vinyl, Bimini top. If the weather gets ugly we go into the climate controlled salon. I just don't understand why these inside helms are not favored. Some of you even remove them. I guess it's so you can spend more money on short lived flybridge enclosurers. Sorry!!!
 
Its really amazing how much I can see from my flybridge. I guess I have no other choice but to make the flybridge area somewhat weather proof since I don't have an inside helm. I think, though, an inside helm wouldn't work out too well for me because I'm vertically challenged at only 5'4" and probably wouldn't be able to see where I'm going!

I think a good point with a hard top is that during those heavy rains there won't be any dripping on my head and the hard top will take care of my need to get an arch because I'm going to have to have somewhere to mount my radar. It also looks as though the way the curtains are designed with a hardtop you have a sturdier system. I think I'll look more into this on monday. The place I called is doing a show in New York soon and said they would offer a sweeter deal because they want to have one built and sold before the show in the size range I need. They'd use it for the show and then offer an even sweeter deal.
 
Atlantic Towers out of NJ is at the NY Boat Show every year. They do good work and their Boat Show prices can't be beat. If they'll knock a few more bucks off for the privledge of using your top as a demo - put your order in now! :D
 
I have a hardtop on my 50' motoryacht that was done by Slane about 14 years ago. The enclosure is attached by the metal channel talked about here. Another trick that my canvas guy likes to use is to make a zipper section that slides into the track and the panels zipper to that. It's much easier than wrestling the full panels into the channel. Also, you can have a winter enclosure made up that will mate with zippers in the channel.

The zipper section is only about 2" long including the zipper half.

A great way to do it! Also, all of my opening panels snap up to the hardtop except for the 3 rear sections that I like to roll up "sport fish" style to keep the area behind me wide open in nice weather.

Good luck to all, and Happy Holidays!!

Capt K
 
Passages,

That's actually who I am dealing with. They offered me the entire thing with some extras for 4k. They also offered tickets to the show and free shipping. Their work looks real nice.
 
$4,000. Does not sound bad at all. I had a total enclosure made for my old 32.It ran about a grand less ,but I did not have a hard top in the price. I was going to do the same as you for my 43, but I thought the price was a little steep. Then I though about the bridges that I go under. I sometimes wait 4HRs.for a bridge opening. Im going to stay with a soft top. I don't understand why you guys are having the leaks in the soft tops. I never have them. I also will never have a boat without a fly bridge. The view from the bridge is so much better than the lower helm.You can see things in the water better. Objects far off are easyer to see. My bridge seats 6. 12 If your good friends. I like to sit up there and watch TV in the cool summer breese or under way. At night it is easyer to see the channel markers. Lots of reasons to have a bridge and enclose it. Love it. Bill
 
When you order a hardtop like this does it only come in a b right white color or do they attempt to match the color of my hull, which isn't white.
 
A "hardtop" installed for $4,600 is a steal. Too good to be true!! A 42ft LRC owner paid about $12,000 for a hardtop. Are you sure the "hardtop" is fiberglass and not fabric stretched over an aluminum frame?? The price sounds about right for the fabric solution. Atlantic Tower, NJ, does a lot of them..and delivers via their own truck service periodically.
 
No. Its the real deal. They are giving me a deal because they want to build one to use in their show. They said they haven't sold one yet for a boat my size (in time for the show) so they're giving me a deal. I will be finializing things on Monday so they can begin to build it. Anybody have an suggestions about any options that I may not be getting for free...things you've added to your enclosure to make things easier and more practical?
 

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