Tides Marine ( Strong Seal) drive shaft seal

[Luckyducky]

So my starboard dripless drive shaft is dripping. I have a back up seal on the drive shaft ready to install. See pictures. I'm not sure how to get the old seal out. I have removed the spiral retaining ring. This unit is a strong seal, so to replace the seal, how do you get the old seal out without damaging the the housing where the seal fits inside.

 

[Dan Mapes]

Tides marine still has the procedure online. Start there and if it looks fubar give them a shout.

https://www.tidesmarine.com/strong-seal-carriers-chart

 

[Luckyducky]

I did look at the video, however the video is of the sure seal. I'm trying to change a strong seal. I know they are very similar one has a snap ring the other has a screw on cap that holds the seal in place. I was just a bit nervous about digging the old seal out.

I did get the old seal out by using a sharp awl and small screwdriver. Pressed the new seal in with a large pair of channel locks. Dripless drive shaft seal is now dripless again

 

[oldawg]

You may want to change those clamps while you are in there. They look a bit rusty and if they fail (don't ask me how I know) the results can be rather spectacular.

 

[Boatsb]

You may want to change those clamps while you are in there. They look a bit rusty and if they fail (don't ask me how I know) the results can be rather spectacular.

The bellows and hoses too.

 

[Luckyducky]

Your right, think I'm going to West and find new clamps for both sides. I did find one broken on a cooling line. We're you underway when yours gave out?

 

[Boatsb]

Your right, think I'm going to West and find new clamps for both sides. I did find one broken on a cooling line. We're you underway when yours gave out?

Tides recomends changing the bellows and cooling hoses. I believe the bellows is every 5 to 7 years.

Also the nipple for the cooling line can rot out. Be pro active.

 

[bobk]

Your right, think I'm going to West and find new clamps for both sides. I did find one broken on a cooling line. We're you underway when yours gave out?

Get AWAB 316 SS clamps. Not sure West has that quality.

Bobk

 

[thoward]

I would skip West Marine and get AWAB clamps. Far superior!
Edit, LOL, just saw bobk post

 

[Luckyducky]

Who sells the swab clamps, anyone know?

 

[Boatsb]

AWAB makes a good clamp. It's 316 stainless as are some others. The AWAB Has ridges for the screw not slots. While the slots weaken the band the ridges flatten out at about the same tension. Any good all stainless clamp will do. 2 each end. Also look at replacing the bellows and inspect the pipes from the water lines. Drip less becomes sinking if any of these fail.

Find a good local supplier and check out the clamps when you buy them. Some have a steel screw that will rust even with a stainless band.

 

[Luckyducky]

Yes, going to be focusing on replacing a bunch of old hardware in my engine room, I removed my couch and have all the floor boards out. Finally changing fluids, filters, block heater elements, left starter. Plan on inspecting all this area for the next few weeks. Lastly, scrub it down with lift off and shop vacuum as I clean, then paint and Led lights.

 

[z28jimi]

Who sells the swab clamps, anyone know?

Most of the online sites sell them. Defender, Jamestown, Go2Marine, etc.
They're spendy, but Bobk is right..they're the best.

 

[bobk]

I got my AWAB clamps at Turner Supply in Ft Pierce. Best price around. I recommend these because they are all 316 stainless and are much better at resisting corrosion than 304 or 18/8 which are cheaper and more common. I had four of the cheaper all SS clamps break on me during a trip from Baltimore to Florida and ended up changing something like 140 clamps in the ER once I got here. Buy the AWAB's by the box and they are not too bad in price.

Scott, I've never had one 'strip' the indents yet and that was some 4-5 years ago that I changed them. I guess I'm not strong enough to do that nor was the 40 year old who did most of the installation for me.

Bobk

 

[Boatsb]

I got my AWAB clamps at Turner Supply in Ft Pierce. Best price around. I recommend these because they are all 316 stainless and are much better at resisting corrosion than 304 or 18/8 which are cheaper and more common. I had four of the cheaper all SS clamps break on me during a trip from Baltimore to Florida and ended up changing something like 140 clamps in the ER once I got here. Buy the AWAB's by the box and they are not too bad in price.

Scott, I've never had one 'strip' the indents yet and that was some 4-5 years ago that I changed them. I guess I'm not strong enough to do that nor was the 40 year old who did most of the installation for me.

Bobk

You have to really push it. Using a drill driver or a socket you can over tighten them.

 

[oldawg]

Your right, think I'm going to West and find new clamps for both sides. I did find one broken on a cooling line. We're you underway when yours gave out?

Yes I was underway. Couldn't figure out why the bilge pump was coming on when I never have water in the bilge!

 

[Luckyducky]

I think these clamps are good..indented type

 

[thoward]

Those are 410 Stainless, they will rust.

 

[Luckyducky]

Back to the store then...dang it