Therapy

[Jim Roe]

Therapy a 1979 43' DC is currently sitting on the hard and I have been thinking of replacing all through hulls and seacocks. I do not have any leaks and the seacocks work, however they are very difficult to open and close. I am quite sure my insurance carrier is going to require a survey early next year and I have been told that they target this as a safety item.

My question is; is it difficult to do the work myself? Is there an article that gives detailed instructions on how to take out the old and install the new? I am pretty handy but I do not want to "SINK THE BOAT"! Should I leave well enough alone and "not fix it if it aint broke"?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[MikeP]

I wouldn't consider replacing them if they are good, bronze units.

You can disassemble the the seacocks quite easily and, with some valve grinding compound and then some wheel bearing grease, make them work as good as new. Often, just the grease will do the job but using fine valve grinding compound to "lap" the surfaces will ensure a perfect seal and smooth operation. Be sure to remove all traces of the compound before greasing/reassembling them. Use regular wheel bearing grease or grease for that specific purpose. DON"T use lithium or other "metallic" greases since it might cause a galvanic corrosion problem.

 

[jim rosenthal]

This is a good idea, but a difficult job. It will take you a few weeks to do it, although the learning curve flattens out as you do a few. The first difficult part is getting the hose off the seacock barb. If they are the kind that have three through-bolts, so much the harder. Often they have to be cut off and tapped through. Generally, the valve (inside the boat) WILL unscrew from the through-hull if it has been soaked in Blaster and allowed to sit a day or two.

Probably your best friend on this job is a die grinder or cut-off wheel and a lot of abrasive discs for it. Soaking everything in PB Blaster a few days in advance helps also- some of the threaded parts will actually unscrew if they have been liberally Blasterized beforehand.

Get a good pair of goggles, pick a day that isn't too hot to start, and plan on spending a lot of time at this one. However, done right, it is an important value and safety upgrade to your boat. You should also take pictures to document what you've done, and after the new ones are in, spray them liberally with CorrosionX, and they will continue to look bright.

 

[Capt.Erich]

I've puled all of the seacocks from mine. They were all the old gate type that are no longer used and most were so bad that the gates were stuck in the open position and several actually fell apart as I removed them. I ended up using a Saw-zall (sp?) with a sharp blade for a few and an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to get the ones in confined areas. It was well worth the pain and suffering to have the confidence that all the seacock are now operational.

You may need someone on the outside to keep the through hull from spining if you can get the valve to unscrew.

 

[Avenger]

I did all of the thru-hulls and sea-cocks on my 36 when I got it. (Priority #1: Float) It took a couple of days and required a helper. One person inside, one out.

One thing that helped was buying a spud wrench from a plumbing supply house. It fits inside the thru-hull and grabs the two little nubs that protrude inside so you can turn it. From plumbing supply about $8.00 instead of the $60.00 or so that the fitting manufacturers want. To be fair, the plumbing tool isn't a perfect fit, but for the few times I'll use it...good enough.

Make sure that you use the ball-type valves, not gate valves. They're less prone to seizing, much faster to open or close and you can tell at a glance if they are open or closed.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Scrod, that stepped wrench is a radiator union wrench. Ya cant change one with out it !
A few weeks ago we had to change some fittings on the forward head discharge sea cock and with a 24 inch aluminum pipe wrench in hand almost twisted out the fitting AND a piece of hull. Not quite, but two big lugz (me and mad Max) on it couldnt make it budge. A little heat with the old bernzomatic and she spun off with a 14" single handed. Pipe dope needs heat.
Personally, I would service them in place unless you want to permanently remove them. I have 6 to pull and fill. ws

 

[Avenger]

Okay, fine.... Radiator Union Wrench. I didn't know there was a radiator's union

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Only in Chicago !!
cool: ws

 

[Trojan]

If your going to replace the through holes. Why don't you just use a grinder from the outside and grind off the outer flange. You must be careful not to over heat the flange and melt the FG. But it sure would be quicker and a whole lot easier than standing on your head. Of course you can't do all of them this way. Just the round ones.

BILL

 

[(Nobody You Know)]

Jim,

before you go replacing the seacocks, while the boat is on the hill, remove the hoses and shoot a little penetrating oil in each. After a few moments "exercise" each valve until moving freely. If they are really tough you might try shooting in a little "Simple Green" or "Greased Lightening" - alkaline based solvends - to loosen things up. When you get them moving flush with fresh water.

After I had a through hull freeze up on my "Mulligan" boat* I make it a point at lease every month or so to "exercise" the valve on all seacocks so as to prevent their freezing up. It's easy to bend the valve handle on a stuck valve.

 

[Traveler 45C]

It seems to me that replacement should be done only if the through hulls and seacocks are bad.

The big item that concerns me is electrolysis corrosion. They could look fine but be ready to come apart, all pink on the inside. How do you check 'em for that?

 

[the kuz]

I replaced the original bronze seacocks (Weems and Plathe tapered cylinder type) on our 1977 SF during re-power, but only because the new motors needed a bigger raw water intake. If you have that type, they are easy to disassemble and inspect/repair on the hard. You just remove the retaining nut (on the smaller end of the cylinder as I remember) and the larger end cap and the tapered cylinder should slide/tap out. Lapping with valve compound if needed, or just a good cleaning plus a little grease and they are as good as new unless you see red/pink color (evidence of corosion/electrolysis). They do tend to stick if you don't work them once in a while, but we all always shut them when we leave the boat, right?
Regards, Bob K

 

[Jim Roe]

Thanks to everyone for a lot of good information and advice. I was able to find a place I could borrow a step wrench. Let's just hope that the two knobs protruding inside the thruhull are not corroded so I can get a snug fit. I plan to make this a project the last week of September. I will let you all know how it goes.

Jim