That *#@^&$# paneling finish

[Capt Ratty]

I have afromosa paneling with areas of water intrusion, mostly under the windows, where it has gotten to the point it is a must sand situation. After it is sanded, it looks like luan, and all attempts to stain, oil , or refinish results in a wood that is grainy with blackened lines in it. There are also areas where pictures or instruments were hanging and left darker spots of the original color. Everything else is almost an orange color. The solid wood can be sanded and oiled, but the paneling to match is a challenge. Is it a must veneer or is there an easier remedy?

 

[Starman]

Capt,

I asume you have the water leak problem taken care of. If not that must be done first becaus the problem will re-occur and the effort will be time and money all over again.

I have seen exactly what you are talking about and in my opinion, YES, this is a veneer job.

If the wood is still solid, you can veneer with a paper backed veneer, or as I prefer a 1/8 veneer . One problem you will probably encounter is that whichever veneer you use, it will be higher than the surrounding wood.

Even with the thin veneer I mill a small teak strip about 3/4 inch wide and cut a rabbit slot on the bottom side the exact thickness of the veneer. This "batton strip" will work as the transition piece from the new to the existing surrounding surfaces and everything will blend in.

There is a thread about veneering where I posted some tips and how to's on doing this job.

If you need a source, I can get you the veneer. It comes in 24" widths and 8' lengths. They make it in a 10 and 20 mil paper backing. However, I prefer the 1/8 under window areas.

It is actaully ( in my opinion ) cheaper and faster to re-veneer, than it is to fight the color consistancy and sanding .

 

[Capt Ratty]

Thanks Starman. That settles it. I will go for the new veneer and ply, rather than trying to fix the old. Portlights are coming out now to be restored, sliding windows will be next.

 

[Starman]

Any time Capt,

If you need any sources, I may be able to help you there as well.

take some before and after pics

 

[Diver Down]

Paul, this is a quote from one of your previous notes re veneering:

If the wood is still solid, you can veneer with a paper backed veneer, or as I prefer a 1/8 veneer . One problem you will probably encounter is that whichever veneer you use, it will be higher than the surrounding wood.

If you need a source, I can get you the veneer. It comes in 24" widths and 8' lengths. They make it in a 10 and 20 mil paper backing. However, I prefer the 1/8 under window areas.


My first veneer project will be under the galley windows and I wonder what you mean by "1/8 veneer"? Where do you recommend I purchase this material? And, if you know, is it difficult to match grain patterns with these veneer rolls if you have to put pieces side by side (like book matching?)?

Thanks in advance for the information and/or advise.
Michael Ewing
Chesapeake, VA

 

[Starman]

Hi Michael,

What I refer to as 1/8 veneer can best be described like a sheet of luan.

I call 1/8 and 1/4 veneers because they are to thin to use screws.

This "veneer" has the same teak/afromosia/mahagony surface as their thicker counterparts......1/2 & 3/4 marine grade plywood.

Being thicker I feel it holds up better under windows where there is better chance of moisture, even if it is from simple condensation.

I buy mine at Atlantic Veneer in Beaufort, NC, about an hour away from my home.

You can buy in booked pices. Sometimes only 2-4 books, sometimes much more. Just depends on what they have and how much has been sold. They sell whatever someone wants. so breaking a series is common place.

Thier number is 252-728-7620 Tell them I said hello , and will be back soon

 

[Diver Down]

Paul,
Thanks once again for the good information. I'll drop your name when I contact the veneer guys in Beaufort next week.
Michael Ewing
Chesapeake, VA

 

[(Nobody You Know)]

Capt. Ratty,

you seem to be a "do-it-yourself" kind of guy. Regarding the windows, Sam's Marine sells window felt and may also, from what I'm told, sell veneer. They probably have the specs of your boat on file and all materials that went into same since the hull was laid. (I also know of a Hatteras employee who does boat window work on the side and will come to your boat if you like. Send me a PM if you want more info).

Also, about 2 years ago upon haul out I had a large aft salon mirror break (can't prove that the yard did anything improper but, you know..). I subsequently played hell trying to get that wall to match the others in the salon. I may be going the veneer-over route too before this is over.

Good luck.

 

[Capt Ratty]

Hi Capt Bill
I have decided today to get replacement windows made here in New Bern. Jimmy Watts is going to make them out of a composite material that will out last the boat, or at least me. One window removed and plastic in place.

The cabinet doors and drawers have been laminated with afromosia skin, and 1/4 in paneling is going under the windows. I got my wood from Panel World in Windsor NC. Free delivery on the paneling, and next day delivery to my door for the skins. Nice poeple to deal with.
Capt Ratty

 

[Cleaniedini]

I have the same issue. The only thing that makes it worse is that someone applied a satin varnish over it. I have started out by stipping the varnish off. Then I found a place that deals only in refinishing products.


http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/

As for all the other refinishes there is a great cleaning and oil system for most woodwork

http://www.kottonklenser.com/

I have spoken with a number of people about what to do with the wood paneling and most of the hardcore wood working guys agree that unless you can vacuum bag the part and install the veneer that way it will end up not sticking properly or looking original.

Regards
Dini
www.cleaniedini.com

 

[Starman]

I have spoken with a number of people about what to do with the wood paneling and most of the hardcore wood working guys agree that unless you can vacuum bag the part and install the veneer that way it will end up not sticking properly or looking original.

Regards
Dini
www.cleaniedini.com

Not sure how they have been doing thier veneer work, but I have been doing this for almost 12 years and have never had veneer I installed delam.

There is a thread about this, and my "how to " in there. Follow those directions and the veneer will stay.

 

[Boss Lady]

It sounds like the supposed woodworkers, either don't want to do the job or don't know what they are talking about. How do you think that veneering on furniture has been done for the last couple hundred years? vacumm bagging is a recent invention, LOL sounds like marketing to me (read, a way to jack up prices on the un-suspecting) If you want to overpay, I have a 5' x 12' Autoclave, that I can vacumm, heat, and presurize your panels for you. I can give you all the science involved so that it sounds impressive, or you can just use a roller like everybody else. LOL