Sycronizer

[barry]

Mine is not working and I am getting ready to start on it. I guess pull it out, make sure I have power to it and if so ,look at faulty switch. But what if I don't have power to it ? Power panel inside or somewhere before panel ?

 

[Nonchalant1]

If you have the standard Glendinning sync, there is no "panel", it just gets regular power from the switch at the helm, which comes from your DC power bus or transformer. It is a very simple but ingenious invention. Do you get the red light at the helm when you pull the switch? You can easily check power available at the helm, and if that switch is working, check power available at the synch before opening it. There is a big apple shaped solenoid on top of the unit that uses DC power, usually 12VDC. Check power to that unit when the power is on and see if it operates. All of the mechanical components that make it work are inside and you can just remove the faceplate to access them if it is a mechanical issue.

Mine is not working and I am getting ready to start on it. I guess pull it out, make sure I have power to it and if so ,look at faulty switch. But what if I don't have power to it ? Power panel inside or somewhere before panel ?

 

[bobk]

Your light might just be out. I had to replace mine last year and went with an LED. That said, I seem to recall the slave had to be running slower than the master or it would not engage. Can anyone confirm? My DD mech made some idle adjustments to mine and got it to work just by doing that.. BTW, Glendinning is very helpful if you call them.

Bobk

 

[GJH]

Manual is available on line too. Between that and the good folks at Glendinning, no need to go it alone.

http://www.glendinningprods.com/products/synchronizer

 

[Vincentc]

The Glendinning on Lilly Marie stopped working, I replaced an inline fuse and it started working again.

 

[GJH]

Manual is available on line too. between that and the good folks at Glendinning, no need to go it alone.

http://www.glendinningprods.com/products/synchronizer

Another common issue is the tach sender(s) screwed into the thing is bad, or the cable interface at the engine's former location of the tach sender. All easy fixes. But check out the trouble shooting guide and manual and give them a call if still stumped, they are very helpful.

 

[eze2bme]

Bobk - like you, on my boat the slave engine has to be running at a lower rpm setting before the unit will engage.

 

[MikeP]

For the synchronizer to work at idle and at WOT, the slave eng must have a lower base idle rpm setting and a higher base wot rpm setting than the master engine. Otherwise the synchronizer will "disconnect" at those extremes. That is normal operation for the unit so if it won't hold at idle or WOT, the RPM of the engines need to be adjusted using the idle adjust for the idle speed and the governor for WOT on the appropriate engine.