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Suggestions on plugging unused thru-hull opening

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike
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mike

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Apr 13, 2005
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
I have removed a 1-1/5 dia sensor from the eng room bilge of our 53' MY and want to glass it over. Does anyone know of a source for fiberglass plugs of that size, or other options? I am trying to avoid using the bronze sea fitting and pipe cap approach. The hull is 1" thick at the opening.
 
Mike
To do it right you should grind each side to 4"-6" and taper it then put some across the bottom of the hole. Then go inside and start laying in layers of glass till flush. Then go back under the boat and if resin has wax grind area again then lay up till flush grind and sand smooth then coat with epoxy or some kind of barrier to seal it.
 
Here's how I've done this in the past.

Go outside and grind an area about twice the diameter of the hole with a taper inward using an angle grinder. Go inside and grind a similar area on the inside of the hole.

Cut fiberglass cloth circles to match the tapered area. Lay up at least 3-4 layers of cloth using a thickened epoxy and a roller. Place a piece of plastic trash bag over the repair when still moist, block that in place, and brace so it doesn't sag when setting up.

When the epoxy has cured, come back and fair in the outside part of the repair, then sand flush and recoat with your bottom paint.

Go inside and fill the hole void space to the bottom of the taper using epoxy and glass layers (make sure to use SLOW hardener for the fill!) The final lay up uses least three layers of glass cloth over the tapered area (as with the outside.)

Allow to set up, then fill to flush and if desired for asthetics (and accessible to do so) sand fair inside.
 
Good topic.

I have 2 old paddle wheels from an ancient Datamarine speed/disance logger that I'd like to remove. I was thinking of using Marine Tex to plug it but grinding a chamfer and filling with layers of glass & resin sounds better.

I'm always nervous about messing with underwater through hulls.

I would also like to do something with the xducer mounts. I have 2 which are imbedded in 3" thick pieces of Mahogany and tapered so they point straight down. These chunks of wood must add a lot of drag and I was wondering if anyone has fixed a similar situation?
 
Are you talking about removing the entire thing? Then remove the fairing block as well - it is secured with a bolt at the front to prevent rotation, so there's a small hole there to plug as well.
 
Actually, it's the fairing block I'm referring to. The thing is huge. Probably 4x24" and hanging 3" from hull to bottom. The transduce sits in the center. The forward edge is pointed but I can't help but think it's costing me speed & fuel. Is there such a thing as a low profile fairing block?
 
No; what you're describing is actually GOOD.

Think Canoe.... :)

Mahogony ones will eventually get worm-eaten (especially in warmer waters) and require replacement; when they do, they're a REAL biatch to replace as you have to pull the entire cable back! The new ones are plastic and last forever.
 
Guy's thanks for the insight. I'll try your suggested grind and patch approach from both sides, vs my initial approach of making a tapered fiberglass plug.

FWIW Data Marine must have been a stock Hat item, because the sensor I removed was for the DM speed log unit.
 
I just had all my electronics relplaced, including removing the old fairing blocks and adding several new thru hulls. The installer here in New Bern, (does most all of the new Hatts) said that most all of the new electronics did not need the fairing blocks. They are able to set up the offsets in the units in the calibration. Much better look on the bottom.
Tom
 
You can buy "offset" tranducers, but there is no "offset" in software that's accurate. The offset through-hulls work ok but for the really good FFs you either need an in-hull or a through-hull with a fairing block....

BTW virtually ALL transducers are made by one company - Airmar - no matter what is on the label. Airmar will make you up whatever you want with whatever connector you want on it - you just have to ask.
 

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