Stratoglass Enclosures

[Jackman]

Well, since the hardtop is going on in a week I'll be getting a guy to come down to draw up an estimate for the enclosure. Judging from what I've seen on the posts the Stratoglass 40gauge is the way to go. My top has tracking for the enclosure and I think I'll have tracking for the boat as well. Probably a couple of the u-zippers. Any additional things I should add to the list to make it work out well?

 

[REBrueckner]

Track for both top and bottom may be difficult as it has to be parallel. Your installer can tell. Track on top is advantageous because it helps keep out water, but in storms water gets thru anyway. Buttons on the lower edge are typical and work just fine.
Use zippers only where you'll really use them to open the enclosure for ventilation; they cost extra, block vision a little, are a potential weak spot and let storm driven droplets in. Be sure you can open the strataglass and button it to the underside of the hardtop...it doesn't roll. It must be clear of supports in order to open for ventilation.
I'm told gortex thread is the preferred sew material.
Just be seated when you get your estimate. My 11' x 11' full enclosure would be about $6,500 I believe. Instead, I had the current one repaired for a few hundred dollars.

 

[ADaily3224]

FYI

Stratoglass rolls fine, it's EZ2C that won't roll.

You should take a look at Stamoid as your canvas replacement component, it's excellent as a few others have commented on.
My enclosure with no metal work, Stamoid and Stratoglass was $6,000. it looks brand new and is 4 seasons old, albeit short seasons.

Tony D

 

[Capten]

Jackman,

Do yourself a favor and get an estimate on the EZ2CY also. It may be cost prohibitive or possibly not even work well for your configuration but estimates don't cost nottin’, right? You may be surprised and find that the additional costs are minimal and the EZ2CY will last way longer.

Mine is going on 12 years old (years not seasons as the boat stays out in the elements all 12 months) and is still clear as day. It is easy to maintain, keeps the weather out very well, and will never scratch because of rolling! I think the 3-sided enclosure on the bridge of our 46’C in 1994 was around $4,500.00 - or about twice that of a conventional roll-up enclosure. My canvas guy said $5,900.00 to do it this spring if I wanted to freshen things up or replace my half-tower. Not sure what comparable Stataglass enclosure would cost me…..maybe a lot less???

 

[34Hatt]

I Strongly recommend going with the track top and bottom. Yes it does have to be parallel and next to perfect. I had canvas guys tell me you can't do it that way, one even after I had it done. Well it been 5 season's and it great snap basically suck avoid them if you can. The track is the best it is dry and no wind I put U zippers in the front, rear and two side and would do it the same next time. Your bridge probally has snap already I did mine after a new paint job and filled all hole in.
Good luck next week
Dan

 

[Genesis]

I have tracks top and bottom all the way to the console, then snaps for the tailpieces that are even with the helm chairs.

Works great. Seconded on not listening to the guys who tell you it can't be done. It both can be and should be. The bottom on mine is a zipper track that goes in and then you mate it with the panel to secure it.

 

[captddis]

I inhereted a dark blue enclosure when I bought the boat. Fine for VA but awful here in the summer! I am going back to white. I have always used Weblon. Around here about 5 years is all you get. Has any one used white stamoid in the south with 12 month a year exposure? My main concern is if it turns color. Thanks,
Dave

 

[Jackman]

I'll be taking all of this into account. Probably have two or three estimates for two or three configurations. The guy will probably be at the boat this weekend on Sat once the top is installed to take measurements. If I get this in early enough I may have the enclosure in time for the early season!

Thanks Guys