Steering System Hoses

[spartonboat1]

A few years ago, I had all my lube and fuel lines replaced at the recommendation of an excellent tech. The tech said the lines go bad 'inside', so they can go bad, loose some material off the internal walls and plug up the system at the worst time...in my case, while underway! Since my steering system lines are original, I wonder if its time to consider replacing them as well.

Any one had their's replaced? Thoughts?

 

[captddis]

The copper should be fine as long as it is not corroded. I would replace the flexible sections of hose with Parker MST hose and fittings.

 

[Boatsb]

I had a PO who pulled the copper to the RAM when the hose failed so I replaced all the copper and the hose ends. Copper has much less flex when installing BUT has no expansion ( in comparison to the hose although some of the experts will discuss the .000000001% expansion in copper) therefore giving a better feel.

I spent time with the Hynautic tech people discussing this before choosing the copper/hose combo.

FYI the short amount(30-40 feet) of hose and the connectors cost 3 x the cost of the copper portion.

I used all parker as specified by the hynautic people.

 

[REBrueckner]

Just after I bought my 1972 48 YF and had major work done on the engines, I decided to "stress test" her in Long Island Sound before leaving for a full summer of cruising....during gale conditions. seven to eight foot real steep following seas...lots of swinging the steering wheel...

The boat handled great, heavy seas prevented me from entering the narrow harbor entrance I had planned, the flex line to the steering ram ruptured and I lost steering...so I went to an alternate harbor destination and anchored safely...one engine in idle reverse, the other about 1500 RPM so the boat would go straight...I steered by varying the forward engine RPM..

That was the only "breakdown" I had in 11 years of ownership.

'nuff said.

 

[Genesis]

Copper is a VASTLY SUPERIOR line choice for steering and fuel. Sorry folks.

If you want to run hose, have at it, but if it were my boat and the copper needed replacement, I'd replace it with the same thing that was in there.

You need a "pigtail" of hose for vibration/movement reasons at the engine and steering ends, but that's all the hose I had on my boat and that's all the hose I'd be using too.

Hatt did this one right.

 

[spartonboat1]

Just after I bought my 1972 48 YF and had major work done on the engines, I decided to "stress test" her in Long Island Sound before leaving for a full summer of cruising....during gale conditions. seven to eight foot real steep following seas...lots of swinging the steering wheel...

The boat handled great, heavy seas prevented me from entering the narrow harbor entrance I had planned, the flex line to the steering ram ruptured and I lost steering...so I went to an alternate harbor destination and anchored safely...one engine in idle reverse, the other about 1500 RPM so the boat would go straight...I steered by varying the forward engine RPM..

That was the only "breakdown" I had in 11 years of ownership.

'nuff said.

Oops, sounds like I dodged a bullet running 13' following seas this summer, since I had to go hard over to prevent broaching and/rolling, but thankfully no blown hoses (yet). Based on posts above the Parker MST sounds like the correct replacement.

Why is copper mentioned? Do the salty boats have corroded copper? I am in the GL's...no salt here.

 

[31FlyCruzr]

I prefer swagelock fittings. When the flex hose starting leaking and caused me to run the Egg harbor river to mays landing with differential throttles, I re-tubed the entire system with copper. I understand the vibration concern and paid attention to mounting of the copper to limit movement and installed some generous radius bends (Think about the hard lines from the master cylinder to the frame on your car) where movement was likely. System has been trouble free for about 12 years.

After writing this I should expect a fatigue crack this summer!!!

 

[Boatsb]

Copper gets brittle with flexing. The brake lines on the car are steel. Copper should not be used for the last foot or so connection.

 

[spartonboat1]

Copper gets brittle with flexing. The brake lines on the car are steel. Copper should not be used for the last foot or so connection.

So I would be safe in retaining the OEM copper, if not corroded or damaged and replaced the OEM hose where hose installation exists, from the post I see.

 

[Brian Degulis]

The copper lasts a long time sometimes in wet areas it looks pretty bad when it's still pretty good. A way to check it is to get a piece of new copper tube then take a pair of pliers with some tape on the jaws and see how much force it takes to deform the new tubing. Then try the same thing on the boats tubing. If it feels about the same it's fine if it deforms much easier it's bad. Check under some straps also it often goes bad there. I've used one wire hydraulic hose as replacement where copper was to hard to run. I didn't feel any diffrence at all in the steering.

Brian

 

[REBrueckner]

Often copper tubing fails at straps as Brian mentions from abrasion/vibration. Always use straps with rubber cushioning....like the type made for electrical harnesses....green on ther outer portion of copper tubing is not generally a cause for concern unless it has been sitting in bilge water for years...then electrolysis (stray current) is a potential problem....

Are copper water lines and copper steering lines supposed to be grounded?? bonded?? I don't remember ever looking to find out....my own preference would be to NOT do either.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I would think the water lines would be grounded through the water heater and/or the water pump.

 

[Brian Degulis]

Often copper tubing fails at straps as Brian mentions from abrasion/vibration. Always use straps with rubber cushioning....like the type made for electrical harnesses....green on ther outer portion of copper tubing is not generally a cause for concern unless it has been sitting in bilge water for years...then electrolysis (stray current) is a potential problem....

Are copper water lines and copper steering lines supposed to be grounded?? bonded?? I don't remember ever looking to find out....my own preference would be to NOT do either.

On both of our Hats there are ground wires on the copper hold down straps at various places. It looks like OEM Bonding.

Brian

 

[spartonboat1]

Just after I bought my 1972 48 YF and had major work done on the engines, I decided to "stress test" her in Long Island Sound before leaving for a full summer of cruising....during gale conditions. seven to eight foot real steep following seas...lots of swinging the steering wheel...

The boat handled great, heavy seas prevented me from entering the narrow harbor entrance I had planned, the flex line to the steering ram ruptured and I lost steering...so I went to an alternate harbor destination and anchored safely...one engine in idle reverse, the other about 1500 RPM so the boat would go straight...I steered by varying the forward engine RPM..

That was the only "breakdown" I had in 11 years of ownership.

'nuff said.

P.s., forgot to mention that your predicament made the hair stand up on the back of my neck...not a situation I would want. You describe it as if you handled extremenly well, under the circumstances.