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Starter switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Full Moon
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 2
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Full Moon

Active member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
76
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
41' CONVERTBLE-Series I (1964 - 1971)
I've been having trouble with the starter switches on my 41 conv. I turn on the key and the volt meter shows about 13 volts. When I press the start button nothing happens, but the volt meter goes all the way down to 10 volts so it's pulling power but nothing happens. I've got buttons next to the engines down below and they work normally so they are my back-up. The problem is they are a long way if an engine flames out. That's happened before while idling out of the slip. :eek: Makes for a mad scramble trying to control single engine then to get the other one running. I've had the wiring checked and replaced the buttons but it happened again this last weekend. Any ideas? I think it probably is still a wiring problem down below the helm. Haven't had a chance to check that area yet.
 
It looks like a bad connection or wire feeding the volt meter and switch. I would look at the main feed wires and connection. It almost has to be in the feed where the 2 items are fed from. Your drawing power but the wires or connection are not letting it through up stream. I had low voltage on my glowplugs and found a wire ate almost in half.



BILL
 
You may want to check to see if there is a secondary solonoid in the starting circuit. Its not unusual to put a ford type solonoid in the circuit when making long wire runs to the starter. It should be mounted somewhere close to the starter. You can make a short jumper wire to check the solonoid. go from the + battery post to the small post on the solonoid. Like hot-wiring a car-so I've been told. It will look like the solonoid they use for the battery parallel switch. Other than that, like the previous post check the wires and connections. If you have a helper and a voltmeter- just start working back from the starter.
 

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