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Source for 32v wall switches

  • Thread starter Thread starter davidwigler
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davidwigler

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
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58' MOTOR YACHT-Series I (1977 - 1980)
I have a couple of these that need replacement and am having trouble locating them.
 
If you are looking for the green push button switches for galley maids I just bought one from Raz Marine last week. I think they had a few left.
 
Wall switches for what? If lights, regular 120v switches work for DC whether 12,24 or 32
 
Pascal beat me to it but what he said or most any switch from a Marine store will work. John
 
Be careful using 120 volt house hold switches for switching loads both inductive and resistive on DC systems. This is a copy/excerpt from a switch designer forum. This is why our DC switches make a loud snap when they operate. The switches used to control DC circuits on our boat circuits look like house hold toggle switches but are motor rated heavy duty switches and by design the contacts wipe each other when activated.

"Slow or quick-break; should switch contacts be broken slowly or quickly? It depends on whether the electricity is AC or DC. This may seem odd since electricity is electricity. But AC varies in magnitude and direction while DC maintains a steady unidirectional flow, and an interesting phenomenon exhibits itself when AC and DC circuits are broken. Consider an AC and a DC circuit, each carrying the same amperage. When an AC circuit is slowly broken, the arc or spark is extinguished quickly — a desirable condition (AC naturally has "current zeros" twice a cycle.) Conversely, when a DC circuit is slowly broken, the arc can be drawn much longer before it is extinguished. This is an undesirable condition which leads to pitting of switch contacts, which leads to overheating and premature failure of the switch, which can also lead to fire!"
 
Interesting consideration and while it probably matters with larger loads, I doubt it matters for a few light bulbs, even your average incandescent. And nowadays with LEDs, it s pretty much a non issue. Now if you need a switch for a heavy DC pump or large halogens flood lights, then yes.
 
Be careful using 120 volt house hold switches for switching loads both inductive and resistive on DC systems. This is a copy/excerpt from a switch designer forum. This is why our DC switches make a loud snap when they operate. The switches used to control DC circuits on our boat circuits look like house hold toggle switches but are motor rated heavy duty switches and by design the contacts wipe each other when activated.

"Slow or quick-break; should switch contacts be broken slowly or quickly? It depends on whether the electricity is AC or DC. This may seem odd since electricity is electricity. But AC varies in magnitude and direction while DC maintains a steady unidirectional flow, and an interesting phenomenon exhibits itself when AC and DC circuits are broken. Consider an AC and a DC circuit, each carrying the same amperage. When an AC circuit is slowly broken, the arc or spark is extinguished quickly — a desirable condition (AC naturally has "current zeros" twice a cycle.) Conversely, when a DC circuit is slowly broken, the arc can be drawn much longer before it is extinguished. This is an undesirable condition which leads to pitting of switch contacts, which leads to overheating and premature failure of the switch, which can also lead to fire!"

And all this time I just thought they clicked like they do because they were worn out.:) Btw, I realize that the switch plates (covers) are smaller than normal size plates. They were made of bakelite but I don't think the company is in business anymore. Does anyone know where to get the small plates?
 
Interesting consideration and while it probably matters with larger loads, I doubt it matters for a few light bulbs, even your average incandescent. And nowadays with LEDs, it s pretty much a non issue. Now if you need a switch for a heavy DC pump or large halogens flood lights, then yes.

It matters. Why do you think Hatteras used the "clicking" HD switches for DC and soft switches for AC?
 
There are articles all over the internet advising against using AC switches for DC loads - and Hatteras used DC switches - which is why I asked if anyone knows a source. I’ll call Sams tomorrow.
 
It matters. Why do you think Hatteras used the "clicking" HD switches for DC and soft switches for AC?

I thought it was so my guests would know they were turning on 32volt stuff. Thats how I let them know not to leave 32volt lights on so they dont run batteries down if there is a charging issue. I guess I learned something here again.
 
Just look for Ac/DC rated wall switches like this:

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/12021-2i

And for a visual representation, take a look at this video at about the 5:40 mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQpzwR7wLeo

Very interesting video Sky. Thanks.

It’s also interesting how low the amperage rating is on the Leviton DC switch. I wonder what amperage rating the Hatt DC switches have. I’ll post that after removing one. It will also be interesting to dissect one and look at the effects of 43 years of arcing.
 
Slightly exaggerated with 240 volts dc.

It's still correct to use the switch made for the current type and not take shortcuts.

So many people claim expertise so be careful who you listen to.

Spent the time and money to get the right stuff.
 
With at most 6 LEDs none of my switches see more than 0.5 amps. Heck with all the DC lights on at night, the digital Blue Seas meter on the panel never goes over 3 amps (thru 6 switches...)

But if you are still running incandescents or a ceiling full of halogen pucks then that s good info
 

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