Something New / Maybe Amazing?

[GJD]

I have this stuff called Invizashield on the front of my car (aftermarket installation). It's a very thin, ultraclear poly film that protects from rock-bites etc.

I plan to try this on the brightwork on our 53MY after we refurbish it this spring. My thinking is that it may preserve the finish a hell of a lot longer. Would you guys mind commenting? You think there's some merit to this or am I missing something (I often do!)

http://www.venturetape.com/final/VShield Front.pdf

Thanks (freezing in Cincinnati)

 

[StratPlan61]

By brightwork, are you including handrails? I'm all for new ideas, especially if they reduce handrail maintenance!! I can't see how this stuff would wrap around a compound curve like a handrail. If they were just straight, maybe, but oval shaped and curved fore/aft? Might be tough. Hope it works, let us know! Good luck.

 

[GJD]

Yep - particularly the handrails. This material has a lot of elasticity and once applied is invisible to the naked eye. The test I intend to perform is to stretch/wrap the material length wise along the handrails with a butt-seam along the bottom.

It works beautifully on cars and, in theory, it seems that it may be a natural for our boats. Imagine if it would increase the longevity of a newly varnished/completely dry surface - THAT would be a winner!

This is the project I look forward to most this Spring (among, literally, 50 other things on the duty roster)

 

[SKYCHENEY]

By brightwork, are you including handrails? I'm all for new ideas, especially if they reduce handrail maintenance!! I can't see how this stuff would wrap around a compound curve like a handrail. If they were just straight, maybe, but oval shaped and curved fore/aft? Might be tough. Hope it works, let us know! Good luck.

Bear,
I can't believe you're concerned about handrail longevity. Your boat is so far up north it probably only gets about 1/4 the UV that most get. Seriously, I have some rail covers that I put on when we are not on the boat and the rails last 2 seasons without touching them. After that, just a couple of quick coats of varnish and they are good for another couple years. Now, if you plan on taking her back to FL, that's another story, but in MI I think the maintenance is minimal.

 

[StratPlan61]

Sky, I agree with everything you said - BUT I have to pay the piper for the PO neglect of brightwork. When I finally get these #$%$# handrails up to my standard I have figure a way to keep them nice. I also have that damn piece of wood trim along the deckhouse that matches up with the railings. What a pain!!! Anyway, I know I will eventually get them complete - sure would like to just paint 'em to match the rest of boat. I may not, but sure am tempted! Covers are great for the railings, but that only covers half my trim. Rats!!

 

[Brian Degulis]

OK if this stuff is designed to protech a surface from impact damage like bugs rocks etc. I'm thinking that's all it's going to do for brightwork unless it has a uv filter in it would it serve any purpose?

Brian

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Bear,
I have that half rail along the extended deckhouse area as well. It's not nearly as long as it is on your boat, but if you can get up next to a high level dock, it doesn't take too long to tape off and varnish. Like you said, though, it's the initial job that can be the worst. Once you get them looking good, the maintenance isn't too bad. Just don't paint them. You'll be happier with a nice varnish job.

I wonder if that clear wrap stuff would really work. It says that the product itself resists UV, but it doesn't say that it keeps UV rays from going through it. If it doesn't actually block the UV, it isn't really going to help.

 

[GJD]

I guess stay tuned guys.

I'll be doing a test this Spring.

Will post pics etc.

I got high hopes for this stuff.

 

[REBrueckner]

GJD,
Hate to burst your bubble with doubting comments, especially as the stuff may work and make this post look foolish, but having owned wood boats most of my boating life one thing I have learned: there are no short cuts except prompt attention and elbow grease. The key difference between automotive and wood finishes is permeability. Changes in moisture from extended periods of rain, changes in humidity, all effect wood even layered with appropriate coats of marine finishes.

If the product expands and contracts enough to stay clear and snug on a metal finish, perhaps it will on wood as well. That's one criteria. How does the material affix to auto paint?..in other words can you peel if off without damage? Note also that the slightest moisture entry on any wood finish, say where the wood attaches to a metal stanchon bracket, or any edge of the material, will enable failure of the underlying finish especially if the moisture can't evaporate thru the material. All paint and varnish is water permeable to some extent; if the material isn't moisture will collect under and cause premature varnish adhesion failure.

So my one piece of advice is: as much as it may appear this is worth trying, do it on a small piece of varnish work because if it doesn't turn out as you hope, you'll be in for a refinishing job....Just after you have "refurburshed"...good luck....

 

[GJD]

Thanks Rob - mighty kind of you to reply. All your points are well taken and are exactly some of the things I am wondering - particularly along edges at stanchions, permeability, etc. (as you mentioned).

I do intend to test a smallish area to see how it behaves over a period of time. You're right - it would be a shame to screw to pooch and have to start all over again!