Small leak on transom.

[Triskele]

Anyone ever run into this ( see pic). I have a water leak at the transom near a bolt supporting the swim platform. Water is orange in color. I am concerned about what it has done to the transom core. This is definitely not a DIY fix. Looks like I have something else to add to the list of things to be done when I have her hauled out to have bottom done. Isn't old boat ownership just grand.

 

[SEVEN]

Time for a haul out. The orange stains are most likely rust from the interior nuts and bolts. If you're lucky it will be a quick in and out with new nuts and bolts and sealant. Good luck and keep us up to date with your findings.

 

[rob71]

I recently had to replace platform bolts on my 1971 DCMY.
They were lag bolted into the transom and were stripped out.
The Yard suggested through bolting. The hardest part was access behind the dresser.
This required some strategic hole saw and multi tool surgery behind the drawers.

Others have posted of an aluminum plate imbedded in the transom. There was no evidence of this when drilling on mine.

Good luck, Capt. Rob

 

[luckydave215]

I just did mine on a recent haul. The bedding fails after a while, the bolts begin corroding, and eventually rusty water oozes through.
The fix is to remove the swim platform, clean out all the holes and re seal with epoxy, then re bed the swim step with new bolts. It's routine maintenance. On my boat - a convertible - it was easy to reach, (but it took a forklift to hold up the swim step while we worked) your mileage may vary LOL.

 

[DCMY #92]

SS bolts are susceptible to crevice corrosion. If the bedding breaks down and water gets to the bolt in the hole the bolt may fail suddenly. Don't wait too long for the haul out.

 

[Triskele]

Thanks all. Yes, agree. A haul out is in order. Will add to my list of things when I haul out to do the bottom soon. As "luckydave" said in his thread...routine maintenance. In my case, the leak appears to be occurring where the ground wire (white...can barely be seen in posted pic) attaches. Assuming this is part of the electrolysis protection for the swim platform. Regardless, the cause, has to be repaired and replaced. On my boat, swim platform fasteners bolt through the transom. For peace of mind (and proper maintenance), best to change out at next haulout.

 

[Triskele]

Is there a temporary fix (sealant I can apply) until I have a haulout? I've got another month or two before I can move the boat for haulout. Then still have to go 350 miles to yard in Mobile. Leak is a drip every ten seconds (in two places...an inch apart). Hasn't really changed since first noticed a few months ago. Slow weep. Frankly, I think this leak has been there since I bought the boat four years ago. (Something that should have been caught by the surveyor...don't even get me started.) Best to just leave it alone til get to boat yard?

 

[Cricket]

You have to stop the water from the outside first. There are some sealants and also epoxies that can be applied underwater, just not sure how effective they're going to be.

 

[Triskele]

Yep...what I suspected..."stop the water from outside first". Was hoping there might be a sealant or adhesive (5200) that would seal a wet surface. Thanks!

 

[Cricket]

5200 will cure underwater. The issue is getting something globbed on that will stick. As an example, drilled a hole in the transom by mistake. Right away put a screw in it to stop the leak. Then took a stainless pan head screw with washer and some 5200 and screwed it in from the outside. for a really good temp repair until haul out. We had something for the 5200 to adhere too that was clean and also mechanically fastened.

 

[Triskele]

I like it. Good to know. Was about to call 3M and ask if 5200 would cure underwater. I'll take your word (and experience) for it. I can see how this might work as a temp fix going from the outside (water pressure works in your favor). However, not sure it would hold going from inside. At least until 5200 sets up and cures. Maybe some bracing? With water temps in low 40s and breech a foot below the waterline, conditions for working from the outside without a haulout are not favorable. I think I will give it more time and hope it holds out.

In case I go for it from inside...what length screw?

 

[Cricket]

That cold of a temp is going to be tough to get anything to cure.
Since it's been leaking for so long any coring in the transom is most likely already rotted so the only hope is to stop the water from coming in. At this point maybe just try one of the miracle underwater epoxies after heating up the area the best you can and keep the heat until it kicks off which is hopefully before it falls off. There are some that come as a 2 part clay like material that might work. Try to clean up the area with some rough waterproof emery cloth first. be careful not to make it any worse than it already is, wouldn't try removing the bolts/nuts since you can't respond if it goes bad.

 

[Triskele]

Hmmm...the thought of the transom core being rotted just started to sink in. Arrrrgh. Thanks so much for your info and advice. Much appreciated. I think at this time, probably best not to make things worse until I can get hauled out.

 

[Triskele]

That cold of a temp is going to be tough to get anything to cure.
Since it's been leaking for so long any coring in the transom is most likely already rotted so the only hope is to stop the water from coming in. At this point maybe just try one of the miracle underwater epoxies after heating up the area the best you can and keep the heat until it kicks off which is hopefully before it falls off. There are some that come as a 2 part clay like material that might work. Try to clean up the area with some rough waterproof emery cloth first. be careful not to make it any worse than it already is, wouldn't try removing the bolts/nuts since you can't respond if it goes bad.

BTW...it is my understanding that Hatteras hulls are solid glass (no core) at least below the waterline. Does that not also apply to the transom? My boat is a 1981 DCMY 43. Do you know for a fact that the transom has core material that can rot?

 

[Cricket]

Our Hat from 1965-66 was built with balsa in the transom, rest of the hull is solid. We removed it as it was bad about 15 years ago from the waterline down.

 

[DCMY #92]

Several years ago i increased the size of the exhaust system on our 1965 41 DCMY including the through-transom outlets. The transom was definitely solid glass, about 5/8" thick.

 

[Triskele]

Several years ago i increased the size of the exhaust system on our 1965 41 DCMY including the through-transom outlets. The transom was definitely solid glass, about 5/8" thick.

Good to know. Thank you. This is consistant with other info I have picked up. The farthest back I go is a brochure for a 1967 TC. In it, it says seamless fiberglass hull. The latest info I had is Hatteras began building solid fiberglass hulls in 1967. It sounds like for some models even sooner. Thanks for info on hull thickness.