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Silly question about throttle controls.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Blain
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Blain

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2025
Messages
26
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
I know this will sound silly but in our previous boats we can move the throttle controls without the engine running or a key inserted. The throttle controls on this new to me Hatteras cannot be moved. They are known to be stiff from the survey but these feel like the levers are mechanically locked. Even with the key inserted. So my silly question is Why are the sticks feel mechanically locked? As to the cables, I looked everywhere for the numbers to order a new set of cables but no luck so far. In desperation I am trying to lubricate them from the top. Not easy to release the top of the cables from the underside of the sticks.

With the difficulties I have draining the coolant in a contained bucket to properly dispose, so far this week has not been productive despite putting in the hours and prior research.

At least reading the threads on this forum is therapeutic for me.

Blain
 
Don’t bother trying to oil or grease the cables it doesn’t work. Look at the top of the cables under the shifters/throttle for an indented number. If you can’t read it, take some white shoe polish and rub across it and then wipe it down. You’ll be able to see the numbers. If you can’t find it at the top, go down into the engine room and look in the same area sometimes they’re about a foot or more away from the end. Each cable is different so don’t order 8 thinking you’ve found the right size.
 
I had to pull mine off and measure them. Pull a rope/line through with them so you can pull the new ones back in. Every one of mine was a different length.
 
Thank you both for thr comments. I ordered white shoe polish & white crayons and will try to decifer the numbers. . the numbers are raised and completely faded. I may have to pull the controls off and measure.

Back to my silly question, do the throttle levers move if the engine is off on the Detroits?

I hope that I am asking the question correctly. Thank you
 
Thank you both for thr comments. I ordered white shoe polish & white crayons and will try to decifer the numbers. . the numbers are raised and completely faded. I may have to pull the controls off and measure.

Back to my silly question, do the throttle levers move if the engine is off on the Detroits?

I hope that I am asking the question correctly. Thank you

Yes. They will move.
 
If you wind up changing the cables, you can pull the new ones thru using the old ones by joining them together with a coupling nut
 
If you can't move the throttle it might be a challenge to loosen the retention screw.

I will take the chance that we are talking Morse throttle quadrants, you do not need to completely remove the screw, there is a pin on in a plate that looks like a bicycle chain link. The screw covers the end of the plate to keep it on a small pin on the throttle. You loosen the screw just enough pull the link out to rotate the link and then you can pull out the pin to separate the cable.

I hope that makes sense. My cable to Morse connectors are perhaps 3/8 square brass bars that the pin travels through.
 
Thank you very much Bill, Sky and Bob,

Each one of input was needed and great. Bill, your description on how to detach the cables made things so much easier. I ordering a new set, it took a bit to get the lengths from the numbers on the old cables. As far as I can tell for the 53', I have 1x 20', 4x 22', 1x. 24', 1x 26', 1x 28'. I have a Synchronizer in the SB engine room.

My throttle cables only move when the engine is running.. the SB controls (FB & PH) become very easy to move with the synch activated.. Port controls are still so stiff with synch On, I have to use two hands to move them 1/2" if that.

I suspect snaking the cables will be a challange but I have no choice but to go for it.

Blain
 
It helps to have a partner down in the ER pushing the cables while you pull from above. You may have to work them back and forth a bit as well. I'm not sure how the chase is set up on your boat, but on mine, it was pretty jammed with abandoned wiring. Clearing that out ahead of time will make the job easier. A little lubricant like vasoline on the new cable couldn't hurt either.
 
Here is a bit of an update and a question, if I may. I ordered 10 cables, 8 for the controls, one X drive for the synchronizer and one push pull between synch and SB throttle.
I had a feeling the the SB push pull cable was the culprit for the SB stiffness more than the throttle cables themselves. So I started by replacing this cable, and it was like magic.. Throttle SB control move beautifully now. I also lubricated the sync for good measure.

The port FB cable was pulled and replaced. Now it moves but still with some stiffness as if it's grinding against something (prior it did not budge). Nowhere as smooth as SB cables. I duplicated the exact run as the old cable with soft S curves as needed. It's a bit disappointing but at least I can move the throttle enough to move the boat.
I am not sure what can create this grinding stiffness in a new cable. Any comments or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Blain
 

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