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Shurflo extreme 32v

  • Thread starter Thread starter Liquid Asset
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Liquid Asset

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Where did you guys buy yours? I have not been able to find one in stock. I want the variable speed version. SHU#5901-4212 is the part number. Thanks.
 
Pat,

I originally bought a Shurflo SmartSensor 24-32 volt pump from Hopkins-Carter (www.hopkinscarter.com). It doesn't really work in a 32 volt system and I sent it back to Shurflo for in-warranty repair and they replaced it with the 32 volt specific 5901-4212, which works great.

It's listed at: http://www.fisheriessupply.com/ but backordered. Maybe call Shurflo directly?

BTW - ShurFlo told me that the SmartSensor 5901-1211 has now been refitted with a higher rated overvoltage protection circuit that's OK for 32 volt systems because it goes up to 38 volts, but I'm happy with the 32V specific pump.

Doug Shuman
 
Last edited:
What would be the advantage of the smart sensor? any Idea?
 
Pat,

The idea is that it starts up slow if low flow is required and then goes to full volume as flow rates are increased. The "regular" pump sounds like it's just either on or off. However, the ShurFlo technician I talked to told me that ALL of their extreme series pumps are variable rate pumps. Particularly, if you have a captive water pressure tank like most Hatts have, it doesn't matter which pump you have because the captive pressure tank gives you water pressure at any flow rate.

My old SmartSensor pump used to make beeps and boops sounds as it kicked in and again as it began to shut off, probably as the different pressures were reached. Pascal has one in his 53MY and it makes the same strange sounds. The 5901-4212 just runs fine when the pressure drops and stops running when it reaches 50 lbs/sq in again. I think you picked the best one to begin with (the 4212) which is made specifically for 32 volts.

Doug
 
yep... it's one of those case where i dont' see the point of the fancy electronics... a pressure switch is just as good... the 24/32v version makes an electronic buzzing sound before it starts pumping. Then when the battery charger goes off (via timer or if shore/genset is turned off), the voltage drop confuses the pump and it stops. it usually restarts after a couple of minutes (not seconds) which seem like hours when you have shampoo in your eyes or a mouth full of toothpaste :-)

i prefer a normal pump with accumulator tank and will repair my galley maid...
 
Ok, I'm confused. I need to fix my fresh water system by either repairing my Galley Maid ( and what looks to be the original diaphram back up pump which also doesn't work) or change out the whole system. What should I do.
If I change out the Galley Maid with the Shurflo 5901-4212, do I then eliminate the accumulator tank too? What do I do for a backup if this is the recommendation.
On the other hand, if I send my Galley Maid to Raz Marine or Galley Maid for repair, what do I do to deal with the ancient, broken diaphram pump. Can that be fixed or is their a recommended replacement for it.
Thanks much. I'm waterless now under way!
 
I'm personally a big fan of these old galley maids. Every part in there can be rebuilt or replaced. It's a very simple and effective design. I don't like replacing old, simple stuff made of of genuine METAL with new, complicated, unrepairable plastic stuff. But that's just me.;)

Mike(the Luddite)P
 
I am with Mike. The Galley Maids regularly go 20 years, they have a steady smooth flow and do not make some of the annoying noises some of the others make. There is little to go wrong. All that is rquired is good voltage and not running dry. The other good option is a 110 volt shallow well pump.
Whatever pump you use will benefit from a expansion tank. A real tank though not one of the 1 qt. POS tanks!
 
get a cheap shurflo or jabsco for now while you get the GM rebuild. then keep the cheapy as a back up. i removed the accumulator tank with the shurflo since it's variable speed.
 
I purchased my Shruflo purly to be a backup for my AC water pump. If I need a pump that run on DC, then I use the Shurflo. Somone removed the Galley Maid DC water pump before I purchased the boat. This does not bother me because I normally am running the Genset or am at a dock. I just want a backup in case of the loss of AC power.

If I did not have atn AC pump, and was using a primary DC pump, I would use the galley maid, or purchase one.
 
Pascal-
What kind of "cheap" 32V backup waterpump do you recommend? I like your idea of just getting my GM rebuilt and leaving my original accumulator tank in place. Can I put the "cheapy" backup in line with an accumulator tank?
Thanks,
Pat
 
Pat,

I put the Shurflo 32V pump "in-line" with my 110V pump. It's actually more like parallel and it's a very simple hookup. I just ran a Y from the fresh water supply pipe into the Shurflo and another Y from the Shurflo output into the pressure side pipe after the captive air "accumulator" tank. I can run them both together just fine. When 110V is available, it runs before the 32V pump does and shuts off at a higher pressure than the 32V pump would. When there's no 110V available, the 32V pump takes over. The only thing I have to be careful about is if the water runs out or I open the lines up for any reason, I have to run all the pressure out of the captive air tank first or it will keep the 32V pump from priming itself.

I think the GalleyMaid metal pumps are expensive, so maybe the "cheapy" 32V pump is the Shurflo (about $225).

Doug
 
I've got the same 110 volt AC (Sears shallow well pump) and the GM pump as a backup for use when the AC pump is unavailable (genny off, on the hook).

I figure the GM pump will be around for another 20 years with only occasional duty.

Day in day out, I'd rather use the AC pump and reduce my low voltage usage while at dock. I've got a timer on the charger, and I like to keep its operational window as "tight" as possible.
 
Tim-
I've got my GM working now, but I think I'll add a 110v pump as my primary, as you have. Did you just "Tee" your line from your water tanks and put the Sears shallow water pump on one side of the tee with the GM with the accumulator tank on the other? Do you keep both powered up and they work when they need to or do you just send power to the 32v GM when you need it.
Thanks,
Pat
 

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