Shower sump stuck on issue. Need advice!

[MVCaprice]

I am having a strange issue with my forward shower sump that I am a bit baffled by!

The sump has a standard rule 2000 32v pump and rule "super" float switch. Over the last season the sump has seemed to get stuck on even when the float is down. Last fall I replaced the pump which likely was caused by this stuck on problem. More recently in the May timeframe I replaced the float switch. I have also cleaned out the sump and there aren't any obstructions and the float is down. Problem in however that the situation keeps on happening. If I toggle the float it will shut off for some time as well. However, When running its stuck on 100 % of the time and after the boat sits its happening as well.

I suppose I may need to look at the terminal strip its connected to a bit closer. Perhaps one of the push pull switches is leaking current? Anyone had this experience before? Any suggestions?

 

[Fanfare]

It's probably the float switch. There are some pricey magnetic switches that run in a tube. I have had some for years but forget the brand. These really last.

A while ago Rule made some bilge pumps that did not need a float switch. I believe they would automatically come on for a few seconds and sense if there was increased current draw due to water being present. If so they would stay on until the water was pumped out, then the current demand would drop and they would turn off. Perhaps if you have some corrosion resistance in your wires it would stay on.

 

[MVCaprice]

It seems likely that it's the float, although I just put a new float in! Also the old one that came out had the same issue. Very confusing!

 

[Scarlett]

Is.your sump flat. If there is any slope the metal ball in the float switch will not roll to the off position. Since they outlawed mercury this has become a bigger problem. John

 

[Cricket]

Ultra Safety Systems makes the ONLY float switch I will have in my boats. Buy it once and NEVER worry about it ever.

 

[MVCaprice]

Ultra Safety Systems makes the ONLY float switch I will have in my boats. Buy it once and NEVER worry about it ever.

Looking into this now. I am a huge fan of water witch products switches but they only make 12 and 24 volt versions.

 

[captainwjm]

It's most likely the float switch. As the saying goes, they don't make 'em like they used to. I've replaced my sump float switch 3 times in 2 years, as well as 2 seperate floats in bilge areas. If it is the "return" water from the vented loop, perhaps a check valve after the pump. I did that, it didn't fix the float switch issue, but did decrease the amount of standing water in the sump, cutting down on smells.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I have the Ultra switches, too. They are the best around. Note that WM stole the design a few years ago, so make sure you buy the switch from Ultra in Florida. One of mine is over twenty years old and still going strong. They come in 12vdc, 24vdc, and 32vdc. Made by a small company who invented them, in USA.

 

[mykim]

Don't build a mountain. Swap out the float switch. You can verify the switch by simply taking it out of the circuit. Reconnect the wires and pump should come on. Disconnect one wire, pump off. It's the switch.

 

[MVCaprice]

It looks like the pump isn't bolted down which I suspect is contributing to the problem. I'll fix that and see if that solves the issue.

 

[SEVEN]

You found it.

 

[GJH]

The Ultra Pumpswitch Mini is ideal for shower sumps.

 

[Reefgeorge]

I have not found Rule float switches to be very reliable. They fail way more than the pumps do. I have changed over all my bilge switches to electronic types with the probes but I have not upgraded my shower sumps. i will do that when I go to a larger single sea chest like sump with a real diaphragm pump.