SHorthaul - What to do?

[rangerscott275]

hello,

I am scheduling a shorthaul next week (I get one free per season from my marina) and was wondering beside from a powerwashing and changing zincs, is there anything else I should do / check / fix while boat is out of the water (it has been in all season). Vessel is a 1970 53 MY. I was thinking of testing out bonding network... One other question, on this boat I have split shafts..does anyone know off hand the diameter for shafts (just want to make sure they have barrel zincs of right size in stock). Thanks in advance!

best,
Scott

 

[REBrueckner]

Always check all water inlets and outlets (engines, toilets, and gennys) for marine growth. If the strainers have not been removed in a few years, do so and see what is under. Be sure pinhole type strainers have not be clogged with paint...poke a few with an ice pick to see if they shopuld all be opened/poked,unclogged from paint. Mussels can grow under the strainers and block intakes. In toilet discharges, us a flashlight to look up in the seacock(s) to see what's growing..usually mussels, sometimes barnacles. Also look into your exhausts..sometimes a LOT can grow two or three feet inside!!!

Inspect the shafts and especially props for pitting, a sign or corrosion. A
pink tink color on bronze props means corrosion. Be sure some shaft zincs are close to the props...ones way forward on the main shafts likely do nothing at all. If you can move a shaft at all within the cutless bearing, the bearing needs to be replaced. Inspect trim tabs; it's common for bolts to wear or corrode and screw parts to be loose. Check hydraulic hose connections to the tabs. Be sure swim platform metal and underwater bolts are secure. Check struts at the bottom for signs of loosening...not common on Hatteras, but a potential problem. After the hull dries, check for any water leaks from inside the hull..a sign of hull cracks or possible prior damage once repaired now leaking...

Don't bother trying a moisture meter on the bottom,,it will all show WET and means nothing. If you are in the modd, tapping the bottom with a rubber mallet can identify possible problem areas...compare both sides for sound characteristics. If there is not a lot of paint layers, check for blisters/bubbles in the glass...

 

[SeaEric]

This time of year, most yards have a complete supply of zincs in all sizes on hand, or should. Your pre purchase survey may make mention of shaft diameter. Or, you could measure yourself inside the boat at the trans coupler or packing gland access.

 

[StratPlan61]

Don't forget to check those rudders for extra play, up & down and back & forth. Photograph everything from back, both sides. Take a few measurements to go with those photographs. Ensure stabilizer fins, end-of-keel and sling locations are marked up on the toe rail. Repair any gelcoat nicks along the waterline from flotsam hits. Replace the rudder zincs. Check the swim platform brackets for loose bolts.

Bear'
1984 61' MY Strategic Plan

 

[MikeP]

Shaft diameter on an '80 53MY is 2 inches. I would ASSUME it's the same for a '70 but I don't know.

Another good thing to check while out of the water is the seacocks. This is a good opportunity to ensure they all work freely and seal properly. I have several that seep when closed. When we haul in June, I will be disassembling all of them, reseating the valves with vlave grinding compound, and cleaning/greasing them.

 

[Nonchalant1]

Before your haulout, get somebody else to take the helm at cruising or planing speed while you go to the aft stateroom and look in the lazarette at the rudder arms while underway at speed. Look for a "shudder" or rattle of the rudders when going straight or not being used to turn the boat. If so, look at the upper rudder shaft bushing (the only one you can see) on the rudder table to see if they're loose and shaking. If you have this condition, you may need to check your rudder shaft bearings for play and also align and tighten the upper bushings. Rudder shaft bearings are identical to propshaft bearings. When hauled, if you shake the rudder left and right from the bottom, it should not move much in the bearing.

Let me know if you need to replace these. You use one 8" propshaft bearing cut into two 4" lenghts. It is possible to do it when hauled without taking the thru-hull out of the boat, which is a mega-PITA, but you need to know a few tricks or it's almost impossible.

Doug Shuman