Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Shaft Seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter rwappleton
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 31
  • Views Views 9,857

rwappleton

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
736
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
One of the stuffing boxes bit the dust so We are replacing both.

Anyone heard of PSS shaft seals?

How about some advice on what is available and what has worked for you. I am not a fan of dripless. They just look like a problem looking for a place to happen.

Tell me I am Crazy.:cool:
 
I had PSS dripless shaft seals on my 46C for 11 years. Never did anything to them and never an issue.
 
I have the Tidesmarine dripless seals. www.tidesmarine.com

In trying to decide between these and PSS I decided to go with Tides because that was what Hatteras was installing on new boats. Seemed like a good recommendation. Also, I could put spare seals in a plastic keeper on each shaft, and be able to replace without hauling. I have lost track of when I installed them, but probably 10 years ago. No leaks, and I have not had to use any of the replacement seals. Since these are water lubricated rubber reinforced lip seals which have the shaft turning inside of them it would seem that they should wear and leak. They don't. I have been quite satisfied.
 
I have the PSS. There fine. No issues in my tenure (6 years). No idea when they were installed. Just need to make sure you either install cross water lubrication to them or wrench tie the shaft if you ever have one engine not working. You'll burn (any) drip less up if the shaft turns without lubrication.
 
I installed them on twin engines two boats ago. They worked flawlessly as advertised. My new to me LRC already has them installed and by all accounts have performed just as well. These do not have the water lubrication which is reportedly not necessary due to my displacement speed. So if you ever lost an engine it is not necessary to lock the shaft due to the shaft seal if you limp home at slow speed. I am very pleased with the performance of this product.
 
I have the PSS. There fine. No issues in my tenure (6 years). No idea when they were installed. Just need to make sure you either install cross water lubrication to them or wrench tie the shaft if you ever have one engine not working. You'll burn (any) drip less up if the shaft turns without lubrication.

New Tides model have crossover hose.
 
I have PSS seals, no problems in almost 9 years. I did replace the bellows and associated hardware and o rings a couple years ago as PSS recommends replacement at seven years and I was not sure of their age. My only concern with the installation is any movement of the stainless rotating face away from the carbon seal could cause a great influx of water. For piece of mind I installed a shaft sink on each shaft behind the stainless collar leaving 1/8" space as a slippage witness.
 
"So if you ever lost an engine it is not necessary to lock the shaft due to the shaft seal if you limp home at slow speed. "

Most of these boats have Allison M series transmissions and the shaft of a non-running engine needs to be locked to avoid transmission damage regardless of what sort of shaft seal you may have.
 
Mike,

I have capital gears 1.5X1. Do they need to be locked down when it's not running?

Thanks,

Russ:cool:
 
"So if you ever lost an engine it is not necessary to lock the shaft due to the shaft seal if you limp home at slow speed. "

Most of these boats have Allison M series transmissions and the shaft of a non-running engine needs to be locked to avoid transmission damage regardless of what sort of shaft seal you may have.


Well we are talking shaft seals here not everyone has Allision plus that has been BEAT to death here all ready.

PSS are great if you keep a eye out you will see Slane, Athens and many other top notch repower guys use them the most, just change the bellows every ten years. I have had them since 06
 
PSS use a face seal so the seal is not in contact with the shaft.

Sure seals use a seal in contact with the shaft. Any corrosion on the shaft will affect the seal.

I ve had PSS on a previous boat and had no issues for 6 years. We have tides on the 70 I run and in 5 years I ve used one spare on each shaft. I can't say they are 100% bone dry all the time, sometimes a little wiggle cures it. I think I prefer PSS
 
I've owned my boat for ten years now and it came with the standard stuffing boxes. My starboard shaft has never been touched and it doesn't leak a drop. I just replaced the port shaft stuffing over the winter that has been there for 9 years. So far it doesn't leak a drop either. I don't see any advantage with drip less couplings. Just my 2 cents.
 
Yes Russ,

With Capital Gears, you need to lock your shaft if it turns and the engine is not running.

Will
 
I went 29 years with stuffing boxes and, other than the occasional tweak, they were fine. But in 1993 we re-engined and had to replace both shafts with Aquamet 22 due to the increased horsepower. Somehow, while everything was apart, the supplied nuts and bolts of the stbd. muff coupling were lost, misplaced or stolen. Unknown to me all 8 on this coupling were replaced with ordinary steel. So the following year we left Ft. Lauderdale for Cay Cay. Sometime in the middle vibration began increasing. At Cat Cay I dove on the propellers, expecting to find some line wrapped around a prop. Instead, the four bolts at each end of the muff coupling had simply disappeared. Only the center four were retaining the stub shaft and propeller. The other shaft was fine. Fortunately I had my dive gear. I had eight new bolt assemblies flown in, replaced the stbd. side bolts, and returned to the yard in Ft. L. for hauling, replacement, and relaunch, all at their expense. The remaining ordinary steel bolts disintegrated as I unfastened them. Unfortunately I did not think to have the entire shaft and stub pulled and checked for damage. I probably should have, since for the next several years that stuffing box leaked, and no packing or tightening could stop it for long--like daily. Meanwhile the yard went belly up, so no additional recovery. When I gave up and installed the dripless seals the leaking problem was solved. I don't remember whether I had the shaft trued at that time. Anyway, no problems since.
 
Last edited:
"Well we are talking shaft seals here not everyone has Allision plus that has been BEAT to death here all ready."

I mentioned it because the discussion up till then might lead someone WITHOUT the dripless seals to assume that a free-spinning shaft has no other potential problems, thus ending up with a very expensive tranny repair bill caused by not locking down the shaft.
 
Ok. It begs the question (thread hijack) How exactly do you "lock down" a shaft? Of course, you'd be on the fly in a hot engine room with limited resources at hand...

Discuss....
 
I can usually lock a shaft with line. Put a colve hitch and a few wraps on the coupling and tie the other end to something solid. I ran 400 miles like that with no issue. Shafts are 2 1/2".
Smaller shafts can often be locked with a pipe wrench, just need a little imagination.
 
I had to lock a shaft (2") on our 53 up on LI sound for about 10 miles and did it with a pair of vice grips on one of the shaft coupling bolts. The vice grips then locked against a stringer and held the shaft for the 10 miles at around 6 knots.
 
Last edited:
I was thinking vice grips. Note to self: Buy a big ass pair of vice grips.
 
I got myself a nice big (as in don't drop it on your foot and its 4' long - big) pipe wrench that sits in the anchor locker, at the ready to be sized and deployed on a shaft. It will rotate at the most half way round and then hit the stringer and hold the shaft. I've also found a nice piece of copper tube with some sort of attachment from the PO that I have no idea how it would work as a cross over - but that is what my mechanic thinks its for? Might make more sense to make up a cross over tube to run between the ER's, than fasten a pipe wrench...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,741
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom