Rudder post too pitted to re-use

[nautibake]

Hauled out on Monday for bottom job, exhaust hammer collector replacement (with fiberglass) on 8V71TI’s, Stbd side rudder table repair (water intrusion around the post rotted the wood), oh, and hopefully waste treatment upgrade among many other smaller to-dos.

We dropped the stbd side rudder and found the post pitted so much that it is beyond repair. I guess that partially explains water intrusion. The marine tech said the packing was not done properly either. So much packing only about 3 threads were holding the rudder. Anyway: Quote for new rudder post is $2880 and one week (Bobby Soles).

I have a call into SAMS already and waiting for their call back. In the meantime, has anyone else experienced this or have any recommendations? There are some posts on rudders going back to 2005 but did not find one about excessive pitting. Any thoughts appreciated as always!

Jerry

 

[Walter P]

Many large welding shops have a process called spray weld using various metal powders sprayed through
a welding torch to build up worn or pitted shafting. After the desired amount of material is welded on,
the part is spun on a lathe, followed if necessary by a cylindrical grinder. Large industrial shafting is
rebuilt that way all the time. Years ago when I had a machine shop we did this type of work. I have no
idea if there are any welding shops in your area that can do the job for you or the cost, but I would think
that it should be far less than replacement with a new rudder. Happy hunting.

Walt

 

[Fanfare]

A call to a good prop shop should get you a suggestion. I know they can do this to stainless shafts and make them look and function like new. A rudder might be a little more difficult but surely worth a call.

 

[jim rosenthal]

You could also contact Buck-Algonquin directly and see if they have a rudder which matches yours. There are not a lot of rudder manufacturing companies out there. The originals may have come from them.
As said, a good machine shop may be able to build the shaft up with brazing material and then turn it to fit.

 

[Finalee]

A machine shop could also make a sleeve. Frankly this may also be a good use of JB Weld. Fill the pits and sand it down.

 

[Cricket]

Would be worried about the blade attachment to the shaft with all of the corrosion.
Check the other rudder too. Ask me how I know about the other rudder having the same issue also?????
Lost the 1st blade 98 miles from the beach out fishing but still had the shaft attached to the boat, fortunately.
The lone other rudder made it 94 miles towards home before joining the twin on the bottom.

 

[dsharp]

Hard to tell from the picture but when brass turns orange its not a good sign. I second a call to Buck.

 

[johnjen50]

Augmenting that comment about turning orange, should probably check the bonding system as well, right?

 

[Pascal]

Any decent prop shop can fix it...


And I doubt this is brass... either bronze or stainless

 

[oscarvan]

Would be worried about the blade attachment to the shaft with all of the corrosion.

This. Water getting into the rudder down the shaft causes some nasty chemical processes.

 

[HahnR]

Jerry, we have rudder shafts worn down to the extent our packing couldn't seal. After an extensive search & several calls to prop shops, machine shops, etc., we ended up purchasing new rudders from Sam's. Ours were one piece Mangenese Bronze. Pretty pricey, but no one could really confidently repair them since the bearing surfaces on the shafts were worn too. I can get you a couple of numbers for shops if you want to shop around for new rudders, but Sam's ended up with the best deal & they are an exact match.

Randy

 

[dsharp]

Any decent prop shop can fix it...


And I doubt this is brass... either bronze or stainless

Brass was a poor use of words. I’ve seen different variations of rudder construction and repair. You can bore a taper in the body then press a stainless shaft in and pin it or fab the whole rudder out of stainless. Really depends on what’s available and how fast you need it. The material is probably bronze but the destructive nature is the same.

 

[nautibake]

Thanks very much for these insights, really appreciate it.

Walt, Fanfare and Pascal: Local Prop shop is Bobby Soles, he says they are just too far gone to attempt a rebuild. They have apparently been in business here over 50 years and have a good reputation, but I don't have a second opinion (at least from someone who is physically inspecting the rudder). I have not called a regular machine shop.

Jim, I called Buck-Algonquin. They said they don't do Hatteras anymore, and referred me to Southeastern Foundry. I have a call into them.

Finalee - if it was just me in the islands and no options, maybe I would try JB Weld. But, have the admiral, family is coming in from 2 states for several weeks in July and may go back to Bahamas, so I really want this to be a good solid solution. Not saying it wouldn't be but just not willing to try it right now.

Cricket - wow, what a nightmare, losing both rudder blades, and one of them at almost 100 miles out! Were you able to determine the root cause? Galvanic corrosion or ??

dsharp and johnjen50 - yes, the rudder post has a pinkish hue and apparently that was a major factor in not attempting to rebuild it. I have been having issues with the bonding system, have had 3 electricians on board in past few months. There is apparently a lot of stray current in our marina. Still trying to chase down the culprit.

HahnR - Thanks for offering to help, sounds like you have had exactly the same issue. I have a quote from SAMs as well as the prop shop. I would much rather deal with SAMs, but the prop shop is $400 less and they already have my rudder and post. Was your issue normal wear and tear or was it corrosion, etc?

 

[Boatsb]

Someone was parting out a boat a while back.

 

[nautibake]

Someone was parting out a boat a while back.

Thanks Scott, good point. I will do some more research.

 

[HahnR]

Jerry, no signs of corrosion. Just 41 years of wear and tear I guess. We now have new rudders, bearings, & top plates. Hopefully good to go for another 41 years

Randy

 

[nautibake]

Update: we decided to have new rudders fabricated from stainless steel. $2880 per rudder. Another week in the yard for an unplanned riser replacement too.