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Rudder packing glands

bostonhatteras

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Jun 2, 2006
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1968 - 1975)
As part of my trim tab project I’m tackling everything that’s needed in that area, for the most part. I always swore that the packing gland bases leaked. Not a stream of water but there was always some water and never could find the source. Rudders were last repacked 25 years ago but didn’t leak until last year. I dropped out the rudders and decided to remove the packing gland bases too, that’s what the 5/8 bolts I asked about are for. It’s readily obvious that water was able to find its way up into the bilge by looking at the corrosion evidence. I assumed they were bedded in a urethane adhesive as there is factory urethane in other areas of the boat like bulkheads and the shoe box joint of hull/deck. What I found was that there was barely any urethane on the guide out the hull through the actual hull. No adhesive under the bolt heads and not under the base bottom. What the factory did was lay down wet polyester and plop the base into that. The first base I heated a lot with mapp gas thinking I was softening the imaginary urethane. I didn’t bother with any heat for the second base and it literally popped right out with maybe 5-6 pumps of the bottle jack! Socket size of 2 3/8 was a perfect match. We hate to hear it, but there is wood in this Hatteras hull! The leveling of the packing gland is accomplished by plywood and covered with roving. Luckily no rot to be seen.
 

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How do you plan to reinstall these? I have this job coming up with a 3" port, and was planning to use a thick bed of 5200 on between hull and outer plate, between hull and inner plate, plus bolt holes and bolt heads.Is there a better or more correct way?
 

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I would use a polysulfide calk before I used 5200. You should use silicon bronze fasteners.
 
How do you plan to reinstall these? I have this job coming up with a 3" port, and was planning to use a thick bed of 5200 on between hull and outer plate, between hull and inner plate, plus bolt holes and bolt heads.Is there a better or more correct way?

I was going to do pretty much what you said except with 4200, just in case. This is an excerpt from an article I read after seeing DSharps comment. “

When comparing polysulphide sealant with polyurethane sealant, polysulphide sealant has better resistance to chemicals and UV radiation.
Polyurethane sealant, on the other hand, offers better adhesion to a wider range of materials and has higher tensile strength.”

Almost seems six of one, half dozen of the other situation. The holding power of the bolts is carrying all the load, we are only dealing with the caulking being a sealant. Maybe a sealants rabbit hole is in order.
 
First I doubt anyone at Hatteras thought these boats would still be in service 40-50-60 years or more when they built them.
I get the 4200 thing, would go 5200 on rudder ports or struts and other important underwater parts, a little bit of heat always loosens up the 5200.
Also might want to think about glassing or filling the bolt hole closed and redrilling.
We have similar rudder ports, had Tides Marine fabricate seals somewhere around 1990, have had them resealed ever 10 years since.
Actually have them out of the boat for their 10 year rehab now, will get a photo and post.
 
First I doubt anyone at Hatteras thought these boats would still be in service 40-50-60 years or more when they built them.
I get the 4200 thing, would go 5200 on rudder ports or struts and other important underwater parts, a little bit of heat always loosens up the 5200.
Also might want to think about glassing or filling the bolt hole closed and redrilling.
We have similar rudder ports, had Tides Marine fabricate seals somewhere around 1990, have had them resealed ever 10 years since.
Actually have them out of the boat for their 10 year rehab now, will get a photo and post.
I’d like to see that picture. It would be a good idea to have the gland come into the modern era. Nearly all non-flax packing has graphite??? Who thought that was a good idea!
 
First I doubt anyone at Hatteras thought these boats would still be in service 40-50-60 years or more when they built them.

Brass bolts from the rudder bases. Either Hatt never contemplated the longevity, or its North American Rockwell strikes again. Likely better brass than could source today. Random bronze bolt along side.
 

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Brass contains zinc. Bronze is what you need.

Marine bronze is quite different than brass.
 

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