Rudder packing gland help!!!

[BFDfirefighter16]

I have a 1967 44 triple cabin and I need to repack both of my rudder packing glands. What material should I use to pack them with? How hard is it to repack them since I have never had to do this before and what is involved? Where can I get the packing material?

Thanks everyone for your help!!!

Alex Sherard

 

[Boatsb]

That looks right. You need to unscrew the gland and I'm not sure you have enough room

 

[dsharp]

Any marine supply store will have the packing material. It’s probably 1/4” packing. The packing is put in the top nut after you pull all of the old material out. They make a spring tool with a corkscrew on the end to pull the old material out. As previously stated there’s not much room to work. I would wait until the boat is hauled out then drop the rudders. Then you can take the packing glands off and pack them.

 

[SEVEN]

Any marine supply store will have the packing material. It’s probably 1/4” packing. The packing is put in the top nut after you pull all of the old material out. They make a spring tool with a corkscrew on the end to pull the old material out. As previously stated there’s not much room to work. I would wait until the boat is hauled out then drop the rudders. Then you can take the packing glands off and pack them.

X2. Do not try this in the water! If it were open all around the nut then maybe. With as little room as you have one mistake could be dangerous for your insurance company.

 

[dottieshusband]

Well, my 2 cents... Water will not come pouring in by simply backing off the gland nut. When you dig out the old packing, it will, but it's manageable. I use a product call Duramax from Hamilton Marine. Have your rings precut. About 90% of the incoming water will stop with installation of the first ring. It's hard to tell how much room you have, but it doesn't look like much. You might have to cut into the plywood shelf above so the gland nut can be moved up out of the way.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Well, my 2 cents... Water will not come pouring in by simply backing off the gland nut. When you dig out the old packing, it will, but it's manageable. I use a product call Duramax from Hamilton Marine. Have your rings precut. About 90% of the incoming water will stop with installation of the first ring. It's hard to tell how much room you have, but it doesn't look like much. You might have to cut into the plywood shelf above so the gland nut can be moved up out of the way.

X2. There’s just not that much flow. I’ve done both of mine in water. If you precut a layer based on the first old layer out, your bilge pimp may not even come on.

 

[Finalee]

Is there a reason you do not try adjusting first? Looks like there is room for that.

 

[kelpy]

What is going on with all the raw fiberglass and unpainted scraps of wood back there?

 

[sgharford]

From picture, there is not enough room to get in there and get the old packing out. I would dry dock, drop the rudders, unscrew gland (you can use a pipe or chain wrench on the round part of packing gland), and clean out and repack the glands on a workbench. Then reinstall gland with a couple of turns and put rudder shafts back up,and snug up back in the water. I have slightly more room on my 1976 43 DC and that is how I did mine. It would be impossible to unpack old flax otherwise. I have done the prop shafts in the water several times, enough room and packing 'new enough' not to shred when you get a hold of it. Water intrusion not that bad, but I wouldn't do it with your rudder glands as packing is probably 30 years old and hard as rock. As for what type, I used the Gore type in my rudders, but that stuff is unforgiving if you over-tighten (it will leak and you will have to do the entire job over again). For something like rudder that doesn't turn much, I think the old cotton/wax type flax is fine and perhaps even preferable. Note that when I dropped my rudders (I was in gravel boat yard and dug small holes underneath each to drop all the way out), I found the rudder shafts needed a good cleaning (don't overdo it!, easy to reduce diameter of soft material with sand paper) and that the port rudder shaft top bushing (above the stuffing box) has slop in it that I replaced (Sams stocks them, but I had to drill mounting bolt holes). I also stripped rudders of old paint while on saw horses and gave them the mastic epoxy coating (Interlux 2000) which allowed the antifouling paint to not flake off for about about 6 years.

ps: Beware the rudders are really heavy, you will need a car jack to get them back up.