Roll and tipping info for one part Polyurethane

[ron6785]

I'm interested in any tips for roll and tipping Polyurethane. I've hand painted my aft deck bar cabinet to good affect, however wonder how a one part Poly would stand up on the house. Would be interested in anyones experience and tips for roll/tip handpainting.

 

[Vincentc]

We painted a 25' boat hull with 2 part interlux interthane and were pleased. Surface prep is critical and a big job. After cleaning, filling, sanding, priming, and a lot more sanding, One person rolled it on with a foam roller and the other followed right behind with a 4" foam brush.

It was our first time and the job was not perfect but was a great improvement over a neglected 20 year old gel coat. That was about 5 years ago. The paint has held up well but will scratch.

I would not use a one part poly and would seek out something larger than a cabinet to practice on before undertaking to paint a large boat. You might consider doing the surface prep and hiring a professional to spray. Most of the time is in the preparation; however while it is tedious, it is not unskilled and must be done correctly.

Regards,
Vincent
43 DC Lilly Marie

 

[StratPlan61]

I had good success with roll/tipping one part urethane paints on a RADAR arch I added to a previous boat. I rolled it onto small areas maybe 24"x24" at a time, then tipped it in one direction only using a badger-hair brush at a 45deg angle to the wetted surface. Then after completing adjacent areas, I tipped back across both areas again with the brush within 10 minutes, all one direction. I haven't tried larger areas. I kept the paint thin, through application not thinning and didn't get any sags. Drying overnight produced a shiny smooth surface which appeared to have been sprayed. As others have said, good prep is the key with a sanded finish which the new paint can grip onto.

 

[Avenger]

For documentation purposes I had to put the new name and homeport on my boat, but since the whole boat is in need of major paint work I elected to take a shortcut and just repaint the transom myself, thinking that at some point the whole boat will probably get repainted.

I got decent results using Interlux Brightside (It's so darned convenient to walk into a marine supply store and buy the factory color off the shelf ) thinned with about 25% Penetrol, rolled on with a foam roller. After several attempts at tipping with a brush I discovered that re-rolling with the same roller knocked out most of the bubbles. So I kept doing it as the paint set up until I was satisified with the finsih.

It came out reasonably well, and it probably would have looked even better were it not for the previous tipping attempts with the brush.

That's what worked for me. YMMV.

 

[REBrueckner]

One part polys are fine for locations not exposed to sun...but they will last only a few years outside in direct sun even here in the northeast....the key to any outside paint job is (a) getting the right consistency paint and (b) chooisng weather that is friendly to painting....not an easy combination....Painting in direct sun often leads to brush marks as work time is significantly diminished; painting on a humid day means slow drying and more dirt/dust accumulation on your not yet dry surface; windy day painting is verboten...paint dries too fast and dirt/dust is always blowing....don't paint when a neighbor is sanding....best view: look towards the source of light over the surface of the fresh paint so you can see the "wet sheen"...that's the best perspective to pick up voids....
for tipping/finish use the lightest pressure possible and keep the handle of the brush at a 30 degree angle or so in the direction of your stroke...never keep the brush vertical during finishing strokes...keep a product like Penetrol handy and thin as you go if brush marks begin to show, paint gets "sticky" at all...on vertical surfaces, painting in vertical strokes rather than horizontal can reduce sags.....don't put a glob of paint in one area and think you can smooth it out...better to touch a loaded brush to several adjacent spots and then "connect" them with brush strokes to avoid excess paint in any one spot...(likely you can tell I owned a wood boat for many years.)

 

[34Hatt]

For documentation purposes I had to put the new name and homeport on my boat, but since the whole boat is in need of major paint work I elected to take a shortcut and just repaint the transom myself, thinking that at some point the whole boat will probably get repainted.

I got decent results using Interlux Brightside (It's so darned convenient to walk into a marine supply store and buy the factory color off the shelf ) thinned with about 25% Penetrol, rolled on with a foam roller. After several attempts at tipping with a brush I discovered that re-rolling with the same roller knocked out most of the bubbles. So I kept doing it as the paint set up until I was satisified with the finsih.

It came out reasonably well, and it probably would have looked even better were it not for the previous tipping attempts with the brush.

That's what worked for me. YMMV.

Derek Looks good for a tip instead of re-rolling it use a heat gun on the cool setting the light air pop's the bubbles and it flows out SWEET

Can't wait to see it this summer!

 

[Avenger]

Dan,

That's an interesting idea. I'm going to try it on some of the spots that I re-touch as I'm fixing the battle scars. At the time I was making it up as I went and it came out much better than my "roll and tip" attempts.

Hopefully we'll get the NE rendevous together at a time where everybody can participate.

*Disclaimer: AVENGER is still very much a work-in-progress. Don't get your expectations up.

 

[Bertramp]

I'm glad that after being an "orphan" due to a messy divorce .... it's good to see the boat looking so good.
Brings a tear to my eyes.
Actually, that boat helped me get the divorce, but we won't go there !! :-D

didn't it have a swim platform ?

 

[Bertramp]

Back on topic .... try interlux Perfection with a fine foam roller

 

[Avenger]

I'm glad that after being an "orphan" due to a messy divorce .... it's good to see the boat looking so good.
Brings a tear to my eyes.
Actually, that boat helped me get the divorce, but we won't go there !! :-D

didn't it have a swim platform ?

Thanks. It may still help me get one too but she's slowly getting used to the whole "boat" thing.

It did have a platform, and if you look you can still see the bolts. It's in storage, and it will probably make its way back one day. Right now it's going to get in the way of fishing, but I'd still like it for cruising. So I'm kicking around ideas on how to make it either fold up or removeable. Neither option looks easy but if I come up with a brilliant solution I'll share it with the group.

 

[Nick]

Hi Derek!

Looking pretty good!

How about some other photos. I recall the fasteners you fabricated and writeup on the details. How about Avenger "work in Progress!

See you soon!

Nick

 

[ron6785]

Thanks for all the tips, no pun intended. I know for a fact that the boat has been painted, and in some areas a close inspection tell me it was hand painted. What I'm not sure is whether it was a one or two part epoxy. If it was a one part, I'm not sure a two part over it would stick long term, without extensive sanding etc. I've got the Hatteras off white color which I want to keep, there are however two off whites I think mine is the darker of the two.

Am I right in assuming that if the current paint is a one part and I want to apply a two part over it, I would have to do extensive sanding in order for the two part to stick long term? Thank you all for your imput, much appreciated.

Ron

 

[Capt K]

You can use the two part primer over one part and then use two part. The primer is less aggressive than the finish paint, so it will stick and not dissolve the paint underneath. This is good if you are not sure what is on there and it would also give you a layer to sand smooth before the finish coats.

K

 

[34Hatt]

Starting thinking this was Scrod post

Well back to paint the air blowing instead of tipping works well. It is super for doing non-skid. Since everytime you start or end with a brush stroke it change's the non-skid a little. Well that were I stumbled across the Idea of blowing on it. O.K hold back on all those comments

 

[ron6785]

You can use the two part primer over one part and then use two part. The primer is less aggressive than the finish paint, so it will stick and not dissolve the paint underneath. This is good if you are not sure what is on there and it would also give you a layer to sand smooth before the finish coats.

K

Thanks, priming was what I had planned to do as a last resort. I plan to try this and if not successful, then I'll have to have it sprayed at some point. She still looks pretty good but some of the battle scares have been touched with the lighter off white and since I want to correct those areas thought I might try to improve the overall.

 

[ron6785]

Starting thinking this was Scrod post

Well back to paint the air blowing instead of tipping works well. It is super for doing non-skid. Since everytime you start or end with a brush stroke it change's the non-skid a little. Well that were I stumbled across the Idea of blowing on it. O.K hold back on all those comments

Thanks for the tip, would never have thought of that. Ron

 

[ron6785]

For documentation purposes I had to put the new name and homeport on my boat, but since the whole boat is in need of major paint work I elected to take a shortcut and just repaint the transom myself, thinking that at some point the whole boat will probably get repainted.

I got decent results using Interlux Brightside (It's so darned convenient to walk into a marine supply store and buy the factory color off the shelf ) thinned with about 25% Penetrol, rolled on with a foam roller. After several attempts at tipping with a brush I discovered that re-rolling with the same roller knocked out most of the bubbles. So I kept doing it as the paint set up until I was satisified with the finsih.

It came out reasonably well, and it probably would have looked even better were it not for the previous tipping attempts with the brush.

That's what worked for me. YMMV.

Look good thanks, Ron

 

[Avenger]

One Last Hijack I Swear...

Hi Derek!

Looking pretty good!

How about some other photos. I recall the fasteners you fabricated and writeup on the details. How about Avenger "work in Progress!

See you soon!

Nick

Thank you Nick. I've been resisting doing my own "Strain" thread because progress is so slow. I'm not "retired" with lots of free time like Tugboat Willie. However, this spring after I complete some more testing I will have some interesting developments to write about.

Back on topic: In my experience, as long as the "old" paint is well cured, and you're not using an extremely aggressive paint over it there shouldn't be any problems. Although I guess the old laundry tip of - test in a concealed spot first - may apply.