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Rod Holder Re-Bedding

  • Thread starter Thread starter Traveler 45C
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Traveler 45C

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1968 - 1975)
I’m gonna’ re-mount my rod holders and I want to run the procedure past you guys.

I’m gonna’ re-bed with 3M 4000UV. After I apply the 4000, I’ll snug down the rod holders, but not all the way, allowing a gasket to form and then fully tighten afterwards. This is the correct procedure, no? Also, isn’t this the same way we should do our underwater through hulls?

How long do I allow the 4000 to cure before I fully tighten?
 
The great part about 4000 is it's ability to resist degrading in sun. I have always had a hard time finding fresh 4000. I have opened tubes to find the material too tight to use. I guess that means that it cures fairly fast. If you tighten until it oozes out all around, then stop and finger wipe the edge. That procedure will make it look nice. Next I would wait a day and feel the exposed edge for firmness. Now re-tighten. Don't forget to seal any exposed core material well with a thikened epoxy. I remove the core back from the large hole about 1/2" and bore all mounting holes 1/2". Refill the mounting holes with epoxy and re-drill to size the next day. Sometimes you need to line the big hole with waxed paper and shove a plug or the piece you hole sawed out to keep even thickened epoxy in place while it cures. Make sure that it is impossible for any water to enter the core.
 
Tighten to about 1/16th, no?
 
And pray that you don't find what I found on mine - rotted core as far in as I could reach with my finger. Wound up replacing gunwales up both sides to just aft of the fuel filler, and also across the top of the transom. There's no feeling quite like taking a circular saw to your "new" Hatteras the season after you buy it.
 
I added two swivel rod holders this spring and I know all about the rotten core.
I have patched in places but due to the pressure these rod holders were going to be under I cut the old coring out from underneath and put a laminated a piece of 3/4 inch Coosa and then glassed it in with the heavy triaxial glass. It worked out rather well. If I get a wild hair I may do all of the exposed covering boards next spring.
My 25cent is just lue up the rod holders reel ggod and crank em down , clean up the 4000 with Rubbing alcohol and use a small screwdriver and a rag to get the reveal just right.
JW
 
I’ve got core rot also. I don’t know yet how far but I bet it’s pretty extensive. I’ve got to re-bed everything.
 
I'll try to find the photos I took while doing the project, but I warn you, they're graphic.
 
So how much room do I leave for the 4000 to form a gasket and how long before I can fully tighten?
 
Leave about 1/8" of a gap between metal and deck, and wait at least 48-72 hours before fully tightening.
 
My $0.02,

I didn't see backing plates mentioned so I don't know if they are part of the plan and just understood but they should be mentioned.
 
Backing Plates: Didn’t think of that.

Hatt didn’t install them so I wonder if they are really necessary considering the application. The fiberglass in this area will be one inch thick after I re-bed and I plan on using the biggest fender washers I can get on there. I can’t see rod holders being subject to that much stress even at high drag settings. Do I really need to put them on?


 
Solid glass (which it should be after you remove the core and backfill with big fender washers should be more than adequate even with BIG fish involved.
 
The problem is that you really can't use big fender washers unless you cut them, as 2 out of 3 holes in the rodholders are too close to the tube to accommodate them. Backing plates should solve this.
 
Right, I got the biggest ones that will fit. One bolt will be without but it won’t matter, as it won’t be taking much stress anyway.
 
If it is helpful, Lees makes 'em in Miami. They are especially good if you plan on using 80 - 130 pound tackle, wire lines, high speed wahoo trolling, deep dropping w/ electric reels...etc. I am not sure if they fit other manufacturer's products. They look like they are 23.00 per plate on page 7 under "Rod Holder Accessories". Here's the site

www.leetackle.com/pricelist.htm
 

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