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Risers and Elbows

  • Thread starter Thread starter madhatter66
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madhatter66

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Sep 12, 2013
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
34' CONVERTIBLE (1965 - 1969)
I'm redoing my risers and elbows. The previous owner used a sealant in conjunction with the gaskets and backing plate for the riser. Is the sealant really needed for the install? Thx

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When I had a gas boat I did the exact same job and did not use sealant. It was fine for 5 years until I sold it.
 
If the risers studs and nuts aren't worn or pitted, could they be reused? Or best install new ones?
 
Every 5 years pull everything on the seawater side and toss it.

I use gasket adhesive to hold the gaskets in place and usually do both sides just because. Not RTV. Aviation form a gasket is my usual choice.

I never refuse studs, gaskets, block off plates or any easily replaced parts. It's not worth the chance.
 
If the risers studs and nuts aren't worn or pitted, could they be reused? Or best install new ones?

I always used new ones, I wanted to make sure they held. Even if they aren't worn or pitted they have been heated and re-heated for years and could be prone to failure.
 
I agree on replacing all those small parts. The cost of those items is so insignificant compared to the cost of failure of one of them that the question disappears. The peace of mind is SO worth it.
 
Thx for the replies. I ordered all new parts including block plate and the 3/4" to 1" hose barb for the riser. This is my 1st time doing this tedious task. Is the use of anti-seize on the studs and bolts OK? My starboard motor had a slight overheating issue. After replacing thermostat, temp sender adding coolant expansion tank, I figure next step was this. Both motors have a mechanical gauges in the engine room. I had the boat for 6yrs so it was time. The heat exchangers are removed and will be dunked in the barnacle buster solution.

Again
Thanks all
 
On my old crusaders I used permatex high temp black on all my elbow&riser gaskets and plates. The anti seize is a supposed no no due to it having metallic compounds and dissimilar metals etcetera.
 
Thx for the replies. I ordered all new parts including block plate and the 3/4" to 1" hose barb for the riser. This is my 1st time doing this tedious task. Is the use of anti-seize on the studs and bolts OK? My starboard motor had a slight overheating issue. After replacing thermostat, temp sender adding coolant expansion tank, I figure next step was this. Both motors have a mechanical gauges in the engine room. I had the boat for 6yrs so it was time. The heat exchangers are removed and will be dunked in the barnacle buster solution.

Again
Thanks all


Use tefgel on the studs. No electrolysis and its non toxic.

It's great stuff for dissimilar metals especially aluminum and stainless.
 
Use the anti-sieze. Unless, you know,... you plan to operate your engines under salt water.
 
Use the anti-sieze. Unless, you know,... you plan to operate your engines under salt water.

Even in salt water splash I've never had issues with antisieze. But I guess in theory it could cause some sort of noble vs non-noble metal issue....but then again, cast iron and steel? Graphite in gaskets and cast iron? Copper/tin terminals and steel bolts and cast iron blocks for ground wires? It's amazing everything doesn't spontaneously combust/corrode!
 
Even in salt water splash I've never had issues with antisieze. But I guess in theory it could cause some sort of noble vs non-noble metal issue....but then again, cast iron and steel? Graphite in gaskets and cast iron? Copper/tin terminals and steel bolts and cast iron blocks for ground wires? It's amazing everything doesn't spontaneously combust/corrode!

Exactly. Thank you. If you want to put it on your prop nutz, it might be something to think about, but on an engine?

***BTW, this is not directed at the O.P. I've had the conversation a few times with people who refused to put anti-seize on injectors and I always wonder how their theory of dissimilar metals works out when they try to pull the injectors and the sleeve comes out of the head with them.

You DD guys don't have to worry about the injectors, but there are other parts that are not swimming in oil that you may want to think about.
 
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If your manifolds uses bolts instead of studs get a couple of bolts and cut the heads off and cut a slot in them with a hacksaw. It will hold the gaskets and manifolds in place until you get the bolts started. Then you can back the bolts out with a screwdriver.
 

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