Replacing salon floor structural beams.

[Thelog]

The salon floor planks in my 1978 46C seem to be in pretty good shape. Although, when viewed from the ER, the wooden structural support beams seem to be dry rotted pretty badly. Especially where they meet the hull sides on the outboard side of the engines. What would be the recommended type of lumber to use when replacing the beams? Is there a specific exotic/hard wood that will last longer in a salty humid environment? I don't want to get into a full blown refit of the salon just yet (many things on the priority list). But, I'd like to hopefully replace them one by one to avoid a possible disaster in the future.

 

[dsharp]

Are you talking about the deck beams? I always thought they were fir. I would cut away the rotted part and glue/screw a sister frame

 

[rsmith]

If you look the areas are where the engine air intakes pull in the salt air a lot of the fuzzy stuff is just on the surface I've scrapped it down and soaked it with resin. I've used cypress to replace wood that I've found rotted.

 

[jim rosenthal]

If you really want to do this (and I have never seen a Hatteras that needed it, this must be an unusual situation) perhaps you should look at preformed fiberglass structural beams instead of wood, for all your trouble. Strongwell makes them, and there are probably other sources as well. You could look on McMaster-Carr's website, for one. The labor would be about the same (Herculean) and the cost a bit more, but you'd be set for the life of the boat.

 

[saltshaker]

If you look the areas are where the engine air intakes pull in the salt air a lot of the fuzzy stuff is just on the surface I've scrapped it down and soaked it with resin. I've used cypress to replace wood that I've found rotted.

X2. Doubt it's actually rotted. Dry rot would be unlikely unless there is a fresh water leak or the boat is in fresh water.

 

[sweet red]

If you really want to do this (and I have never seen a Hatteras that needed it, this must be an unusual situation) perhaps you should look at preformed fiberglass structural beams instead of wood, for all your trouble. Strongwell makes them, and there are probably other sources as well. You could look on McMaster-Carr's website, for one. The labor would be about the same (Herculean) and the cost a bit more, but you'd be set for the life of the boat.

Ironically, Our 1978 46C had the exact same problem. Salon floor would give way a bit as you walked through. After numerous opinions from boatyard guys, we never came up with a workable solution that didn't involve a complete tear out.

Fortunately, we were able to sell the boat "as is" and move on. Ours was in California. Doubtful its the same boat, but very interesting its the same year and model.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I agree with Jack. It isn't an area where fresh water would pool, and salt water wouldn't do that. Maybe if fresh water was pooled on the floor above it? But then the flooring would be bad as well.

McMaster-Carr have preformed FRP I-beams and square tubing. Strongwell has so many different items that you'd have to contact one of their dealers to order the right pieces- but no question they will have what you need. Their catalog is extensive.

 

[Cricket]

Replace them with fir, if they're actually rotted, whatever wood you use coat with epoxy. Jack is right that if they're furry, just scrape it off, sand a little, coat them out with epoxy.

 

[saltshaker]

Ironically, Our 1978 46C had the exact same problem. Salon floor would give way a bit as you walked through. After numerous opinions from boatyard guys, we never came up with a workable solution that didn't involve a complete tear out.

Fortunately, we were able to sell the boat "as is" and move on. Ours was in California. Doubtful its the same boat, but very interesting its the same year and model.

According to the PO, the salon deck on my 46C was a bit bouncy too. He added 2 supports from the inboard engine stringers to the ER overhead. No bounce or issues for the 13 years I owned that boat and yes I had the fuzzy wood as Scott described.

 

[saltshaker]

Replace them with fir, if they're actually rotted, whatever wood you use coat with epoxy. Jack is right that if they're furry, just scrape it off, sand a little, coat them out with epoxy.

FYI, that was rsmith/Scott's comment. I just agreed with it.

 

[Cricket]

Sorry about that Saltshaker. We created a waterproof box outboard of the salon fir studs to isolate any water issues when we installed Slane's vents. Epoxy coated everything bulkhead to bulkhead. Then we added the Livosi mist eliminators so we get almost no water into the engine room.

 

[Bob Bradley]

I like white oak soaked with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. Pretty much lasts forever.

 

[DCMY #92]

I had similar issues with the saloon sole in our 1965 41 DCMY. If you look at the thread "1965 41 DCMY Refit", page 11 my post on 1-25-2011 describes the the problem and the fix I applied. A agree with others here - there is probably no rot involved. I also had to prop up some locations of the saloon sole with aluminum columns seated on the stringers and replaced the beams surrounding the engine room hatches with new teak beams. The original beams around the hatches were cracked. I think this was not due to Hatteras's construction techniques, but due to overloading by hoisting frames when performing engine overhauls.

 

[Thelog]

Thank you to everyone for your responses! I am much more at ease now. I have read the previous threads on "fuzzy wood" but did not think that was what I was looking at. When I first saw it, I thought it was fiberglass insulation that was hanging from the rafters. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that it was actually the wood. I have never seen anything like it. I will look into encapsulating the beams in epoxy. Should I go with regular West System, or one of the "penetrating" epoxies? Thanks again!

 

[egaito]

Should I go with regular West System, or one of the "penetrating" epoxies? Thanks again!

You can approximate the penetrating epoxy formulas by thinning West or MAS resin with Xylene or Xylol once you've mixed it thoroughly. Some of the commercial formulas use different solvents, but a test I read many moons ago indicated that this worked just as well.

Additionally, if you're going to overcoat it with a thicker solution later, choose a "non-blushing" resin to save yourself some grief.

 

[Bob Bradley]

I have used Smith's CPES many times with outstanding results. The first coat soaks in deeply and sets. Then the second coat is applied and it finishes filling any pores that the first coat didn't seal completely and forms a barrier that is pretty much impervious to anything.

 

[34Hatt]

I did mine with west if the resin warm like 75-80 degrees it pretty thin and the wood soaked it right in like a sponge. I think it was 2 good coats 10 years ago looks the same today as then.

 

[Cricket]

We use West System only; because you can get it everywhere and everyone knows how to use it.

 

[mike]

I have used Smith's CPES many times with outstanding results. The first coat soaks in deeply and sets. Then the second coat is applied and it finishes filling any pores that the first coat didn't seal completely and forms a barrier that is pretty much impervious to anything.

X2... have used Smith's since 1978 on all my boats (5) and have had excellent results. CPES is also available in a fast or slow cure version.