Replacing portlight - tip

[kflod]

Hi,I'm in the prospect of replacing eight portlights on my 54MY 1989. None are lesning, but the PO obviously couldn't manouver very good as he broke most of the plastic trims.. I bought the original Fuller Busch here on Sam's and am ready to have a go. I've got a Fein and Pretty much all the tools, along with a sealant solvent. To be sure to do this correctly, I looked at i video I found on youtube; https://youtu.be/9yBaQr6LrZgFor me, it looks like it covers Pretty much all I need to do, but I still reaching out to this forum - are there any specific tips you could provide a rookie before taking on this job?Thanks, Kristian

 

[rjwilliams]

Hi,I'm in the prospect of replacing eight portlights on my 54MY 1989. None are lesning, but the PO obviously couldn't manouver very good as he broke most of the plastic trims.. I bought the original Fuller Busch here on Sam's and am ready to have a go. I've got a Fein and Pretty much all the tools, along with a sealant solvent. To be sure to do this correctly, I looked at i video I found on youtube; https://youtu.be/9yBaQr6LrZgFor me, it looks like it covers Pretty much all I need to do, but I still reaching out to this forum - are there any specific tips you could provide a rookie before taking on this job?Thanks, Kristian

This is a lot bigger job than it looks in the youtube video, especially when you are dealing with hard to reach portlights. I recently had the two portlights in my V berth replaced (bought the replacements from Sam's) last summer when I hauled. The total cost for labor was $792. The yard used 3M 4000 UV to seal them. For some reason the new portlights did not fit perfectly flush and they had to do some build up around the edges. The invoice from the yard indicated that they used Marine Tex for the fairings.

Fifteen or 20 years ago I probably would have tackled this myself but at 75 I'm pretty much done with boat yoga unless absolutely necessary.




.

 

[kflod]

Thanks for the insight. I'm fully expecting a big job, and will do it myself. I was more curious wether there were any steps that i should be particular aware of, or any tips that you'ld like to share?

 

[MadHatter53]

Having a piece of piano wire or guitar string could come in handy and also a heat gun.

 

[rustybucket]

Having a piece of piano wire or guitar string could come in handy and also a heat gun.

Heat gun for sure to help loosen/soften the old sealant.

 

[scottinsydney]

I would start with the easiest access portlight as you sure to become an expert by the end of this project. Please take photos of each step and post to the forum with comments. Good luck.

 

[SEVEN]

Something on this video that they didn’t do, you should put 2 to 3 layers of masking tape around the port light to protect the fiberglass from being scratched or gouged. And for Gods sake put a tarp down below it, I can’t stand people who put tools on to a painted fiberglass deck.

 

[boatwright]

I use a piece of wood that spans the portlight on the in side of the boat spaced off by a block that is atleast slightly thicker then the port sticks out from the hull.there should be no contact on the port itself on the inside, on the outside a piece or wood spans the port pressing on the spigot. reach through the port with 2 c clamps and tighten them snug. tap in wooden wedges around the port [8] is a good number. go around the port tapping in the wedges and tightening the clamps like your tightening a engine head. if things get hard take a break and let the tension work .you will of course have removed the trim ring and cut the caulk has best you can. when installing the new port apply caulk to both the cabinside and the port evenly so there will be total bond with no air trap voids.the next part is alittle different to some people.,you are making a gasket with the caulk that will give but not fail when the boat and port expand and contract at different rates.a thicker gasket will flex more then a paper thin gasket which you will have if you over tighten. I will stop when still a distance to go 1/16 or so or I will use small o rings on the fasteners between the port and hull. like all things on a boat the best method is what works for you. good luck

 

[kflod]

I would start with the easiest access portlight as you sure to become an expert by the end of this project. Please take photos of each step and post to the forum with comments. Good luck.

Good advice - I'll do that

Thanks!
Kristian

 

[kflod]

Something on this video that they didn’t do, you should put 2 to 3 layers of masking tape around the port light to protect the fiberglass from being scratched or gouged. And for Gods sake put a tarp down below it, I can’t stand people who put tools on to a painted fiberglass deck.

Great - I'll do both

Thanks!
Kristian

 

[kflod]

I use a piece of wood that spans the portlight on the in side of the boat spaced off by a block that is atleast slightly thicker then the port sticks out from the hull.there should be no contact on the port itself on the inside, on the outside a piece or wood spans the port pressing on the spigot. reach through the port with 2 c clamps and tighten them snug. tap in wooden wedges around the port [8] is a good number. go around the port tapping in the wedges and tightening the clamps like your tightening a engine head. if things get hard take a break and let the tension work .you will of course have removed the trim ring and cut the caulk has best you can. when installing the new port apply caulk to both the cabinside and the port evenly so there will be total bond with no air trap voids.the next part is alittle different to some people.,you are making a gasket with the caulk that will give but not fail when the boat and port expand and contract at different rates.a thicker gasket will flex more then a paper thin gasket which you will have if you over tighten. I will stop when still a distance to go 1/16 or so or I will use small o rings on the fasteners between the port and hull. like all things on a boat the best method is what works for you. good luck

Thanks, I'll make sure to caulk as advised

Kristian

 

[kflod]

Having a piece of piano wire or guitar string could come in handy and also a heat gun.

I'll bring the heat gun - good advice

The guitar is on the boat already!

Thanks!
Kristian

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You may not want to replace them at all.

My dad bought a 1975 43DC in 1978. When he got it, many of the edges of the portlights were chipped or broken off. He had the yard, cut all of them flush with the trim ring and paint them with Hatteras off-white Imron. It looked like a new boat and no replacing of anything.

 

[Scarlett]

A follow on to Sky’s comment you can also remove all the outside screws, fill the holes and then paint. These trim rings were put on with 5200 at the factory I think. I did this a few years ago and it looks great. John

 

[bigbill]

You may not want to replace them at all.

My dad bought a 1975 43DC in 1978. When he got it, many of the edges of the portlights were chipped or broken off. He had the yard, cut all of them flush with the trim ring and paint them with Hatteras off-white Imron. It looked like a new boat and no replacing of anything.

mine are all cut flush and painted, not sure who did it as it was this way when i got her.. less stuff sticking out to get hung up or break is a good thing in my book

 

[kflod]

I think a couple at least needs replacing... See pic. But good tip

 

[Scarlett]

Just a little bondo and some paint and those would be good as new. Lol