Replacing panels under salon windows

[No Hurry]

I have removed the panels under the salon windows in my '72 36C due to poor condition and water damage. Rather than going back with same type of material, I am considering replacing with fiberglass or fiberglass coated panels.

My boat is in overall poor cosmetic condition (but very solid structually). I use it only for fishing and always have coolers and boxes of tackle jammed in there and would rather have a more utilitarian interior.

So my question is: Do I lay up solid glass panels (which seems like a pain in the ass and probably beyond my skill set), or buy some type of thin plywood panel and and coat with matt and resin, then paint.

If I do the wood panels then paint, what kind and thickness plywood would you recommend? I was guessing maybe 1/4 or 3/8 marine plywood.

Are there any distributors that sell fiberglass panels?

Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions.

Benjy

 

[Avenger]

My fiberglass supplier sells fiberglass sheets, so they should be readily available anywhere. I think they're usually 1/8" thick, so you could laminate a few together to get the thickness you need. No idea on cost, they were mentioned to me when I was discussing alternatives to laying up 3/4" of glass for my rudder shelf, which is what I ended up doing.

 

[No Hurry]

Thanks, Scrod.

I've done some internet searches for fiberglass panels and haven't had any luck. You wouldn't happen to know the name of a supplier would you?

I'll ask around at the local boat yard. I guess I should have called them first.

Thanks again

 

[Avenger]

I don't remember their info offhand, but I found the supplier using analog technology.... a.k.a. the Yellow pages.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You could always just cut up an old(or should I say new) Sea Ray. I think most of their hulls are about 1/8" think as well.

 

[StratPlan61]

On my previous boat, I built weatherboards for the aft deck and fly bridge from 1/4" fiberglass panels, then painted them with EasyPoxy to match the boat. They came out real nice. I purchased the fiberglass panels from an industrial electrical contractor. They stocked sheets up to 5x8 ft. They used them for building electrical breaker panels of some kind. They showed the fiberglass strands very clearly through the resin. Same stuff they use to vacuum-form school cafeteria stackable chairs.

I can't remember the name of the Company in Grand haven, MI but I'm guessing electrical contractors may be a source for them in most larger cities.

Unfortunately they only were available in bright red, so 2 coats of paint required to cover them.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Try this:

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Fi...be65946dc1d9ba76.e3eSc38LcheTe34Pa38Ta38Mb350

 

[Brian Degulis]

Simple cost efective solution. Go to home depot they have textured fiberglass panels used in shower stalls and wet areas. They are very thin maybe 1/16". So you woulf first have to put up some plywood then glue the fiberglass panels on top. It's done on commercial boats all the time and hold up very well.

If you want something that can be painted you should look at HDO plywood. It's an exterior plywood made for re usable concrete forms it has a phenolic face on both sides. It's very smooth a quick sand and it paints up beutifully.

I think the last think you want to do is get into fiberglassing interior walls to expensive and to much work.

Brian

 

[NAN-PO 41]

We used the HD fiberglass panels inside the cabin on our workboat. They came out great and make for an easy cleanup. They are very thin however and would need to be backed up by plywood or something. HD sells an adhesive specially made for the fiberglass panels. I am going to use them on the after head walls on my 41tc. The head is small enough that I won't have any seams except in the corners where I can use Mahogany trim. If you use them in the Salon you could cover the seams with Mahogany or Teak strips, Herreshoff style.
Fred

 

[oldboat]

take a look at the nida-core site. they have many different veneers and panel thicknesses. if they don't have what you want try a google for honeycomb panels.

http://www.nida-core.com/french/nidaprod_lamin_veneers.htm

 

[No Hurry]

Thanks for all of the replys. I will do some research into the suggestions offered, Sounds like the Home Depot shower stall material would be the easiest and a suitable solution.

OK, Now a follow up question, what kind of wood do you guys use for repairs, specifically in this case, I will need to build "framing" to attach the panals. I also need to add some support to the salon floor. One of the "floor Joists" has stated to split and needs some attention. I was guessing maybe cyprus. Pressure treated lumber just doesn't seem right.

Benjy

 

[Brian Degulis]

Thanks for all of the replys. I will do some research into the suggestions offered, Sounds like the Home Depot shower stall material would be the easiest and a suitable solution.

OK, Now a follow up question, what kind of wood do you guys use for repairs, specifically in this case, I will need to build "framing" to attach the panals. I also need to add some support to the salon floor. One of the "floor Joists" has stated to split and needs some attention. I was guessing maybe cyprus. Pressure treated lumber just doesn't seem right.

Benjy

Back to the home Depot. In the south they're dimesional lumber 2X8 and larger is Yellow Pine. It's cheap and great for framing stronger than cypress or spruce and if your willing to dig thru the piles you can find clear boards. Looks like Hat used dimensional fir which is what construction lumber used to be still is in some places. So you don't need to get fancy about it Yellow pine wood be equal to or better than what's probably in the boat now.

Brian

 

[No Hurry]

Thanks Brian. Yellow Pine it is.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Look at the framing job on the Big Chill thred... thats 5/4 X 6 deck planks that I ripped to 1X1 (5/4 IS one inch btw) Ive been using it on boat framing jobs for years with good results. I usually try to find DRY stuff from the center of the pile thats pretty clear AND straight. It will get GNARLY overnite after you cut it so use the ripped stuff as soon as possible.
The OEM cyprus is really framing cedar... kinda like pine but less prone to rotting. I even paint the treated stuff with rustoleum for effect if its dry... dont paint it wet! ws