Replacing control cables 1979 43DC

[eze2bme]

Has anyone replaced the engine control cables? If so, how did you do it and get access to the lower helm controls? Did you have to remove some of the paneling in the salon "under" the lower helm control station? It appears that the cables from the upper helm pass straight down the teak "chase column" to the engine space. Any help or pics would be appreciated.

 

[SEVEN]

I just changed all 4 throttle cables on my 53. It took less than 2 hours. You will need one friend to pull while you help guide from above. There is a two sided nut you will need to buy. This nut hooks the cables together with threads. Tape any rough edges with electrical tape to help from catching on anything. As long as former owners have not added zip ties anywhere along the route the person in the engine room can pull the cables freely. If they get stuck jerk on the cable and you might slip by the snag. Hopefully your job will be as smooth as mine was. Best of luck.

 

[gbharrington]

I have done it. For either helm just unscrew the controls from the mounting surface and lift them out to access the cables. To replace the cables get a 10-32 coupler from your local hardware store. connect the new cable to the engine/gear end of the old cable and pull through. There is an offset in the chase between the master cabin closet and the lower helm the makes if all but impossible to do it any other way. In order to determine cable lengths I called Steve at Sam's.
FWIW, while in the process of changing the cables, I decided to change to configuration to starboard/throttle, port/gear. It makes going from boat to boat easier.
Call me and I'll walk you through the process.

 

[sgharford]

I did all 8 of my cables on 1976 43 DCFB about 4 years ago. I attached the old cable (the inner part with threaded section) to the new cable with 4 zip ties. I then used old cable to pull new cable thru. I do recall pulling access panel in salon as well as getting hand up into that tight space where wires and cables come down in electrical panel access closet (the main stateroom closet, space is to upper right of back of main electrical box. You need to get access where ever you can to help coax the cable around corners and/or get wires out of the way as you pull - you don't want to catch a wire and pull it out in some inaccessible space, slow and easy wins the race . For upper helm, I did take rear panel off that 4 sided teak column/wire chase to again help coax cable and move wires out of the way. Attaching new cable to old cable is key.

I got the cables from Sam's as they were good enough to provide me with original lengths of all 8 cables. I couldn't find lengths/part numbers on the original ones. If I recall, 2 of the 8 were slightly shorter (don't remember which 2, I have Cummins 903's) and I had to change route a bit to compensate in the engine room. I want to say it took about 12 hours start to finish, but this included disassembling throttle and gear controls to clean and re-lubricate. Time also includes dialing in the cable lengths and stop screws on levers.

 

[jim rosenthal]

A good-size bottle of WD40 is helpful, too. Ask me how I know. LOL

 

[eze2bme]

Thxs for input guys. I called Steve at SAM's and he didn't have the cable lengths. I have J&T 6-71N's with the Glendenning synchronizer. Will look this weekend on the existing cables to see if any have the lengths marked.
Happy Holidays!

 

[eze2bme]

OK, FYI, went to boat today and disconnected cables at engine/synchronizer and transmissions - control levers moved VERY freely at both lower and upper helms. I reconnected each cable one at a time and all moved freely. Only when both cables are connected from the lower and upper helms are control levers difficult to move.
My next move will be to order new cables as I'm assuming that the 35 year old cables are just too old when combined. I will have to remove the control heads at each helm station to determine what length cables I need as the cables at the engines have been painted and the model numbers are not visible.
I reconnected all cables from the lower helm only and will run from there until new cables can be ordered/installed.
Happy Holidays all!

 

[oscarvan]

My next move will be to order new cables as I'm assuming that the 35 year old cables are just too old when combined.

That's a big jump. I could be wrong.

 

[Summerfun]

You could try to oil the cables I did this with mine and found that it helped. You take a price of clear hose larger than the cable about a foot long. Hose clamp it to one end of the cable. I used Marvin mystery oil and pour it in the hose then take a shrader valve like on you car tires put that into the end of the hose and hose lamp it. You then take a air pump and pressurize it throught the shrader valve. 10-15 minutes it will push the oil through the cable and will come out the other side.

 

[eze2bme]

Yes Summer, I tried the Marvel Mystery Oil as you stated and saw no improvement. Yes guess is that they are just too old and too much internal binding when connected in pairs.

 

[SEVEN]

I did the same thing that you did. I removed the upper cable and the lower cable moved freely. I then switched them and the upper moved freely. Once I put them together it became hard to move. Once I changed all 4 cables it helped. It did not make them move as easily as only one cable but it helped. Please note that once you change them your throttle will creep backwards underway until you adjust the throttle spring.

 

[eze2bme]

Thanks Seven - I hadn't thought about the creep back towards idle - will adjust the idle springs!