Bill Root
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2007
- Messages
- 817
- Status
- OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
- Hatteras Model
- 54' MOTOR YACHT (1985 - 1988)
Some time ago I posted a message soliciting input on how best to replace a faulty air compressor unit on the DD 8V92's in my 1988 54MY. I received much good advice for which I am very grateful.
One of the considerations for which repair/replacement method to use is that an oil supply line runs through the compressor on my engine. My mechanic indicated to me that he had seen these lines leak frequently, and also that the engine-mounted compressor caused some power loss, although admittedly not much. Another consideration is that the compressor system on my boat is set up to feed a ten gallon air tank mounted on the aft bulkhead of the port engine room. The air horns and other air lines are fed from this tank, not directly from the compressor. Considering all these factors, I decided to replace the engine-mounted compressor with a free-standing compressor unit.
The replacement process was quite simple. We removed the engine mounted compressor, connected the oil supply lines going to/from it together, and installed a plate to cover the compressor gear drive hole in the engine. I purchased a six gallon Porter Cable pancake compressor at Home Depot for about $129. It fit perfectly on the floor aft of the box covering the stabilizer units. I built a square "pad" to go under it, attached the unit legs w/rubber feet to the pad, then screwed the pad to the floor. From that point it was a simple matter to plumb the air hoses through the new compressor to the bulkhead-mounted air tank. We set the compressor to maintain 90lbs. pressure in it's air tank at all times. Power to the compressor is supplied from the 120V outlet in the engine room.
We tested the above arrangement on our 500 mile trip from Ft. Lauderdale to Sanford in October. It worked fine the entire trip. We used the air horns frequently due to the number of bridge openings and fishermen anchored mid channel on the ICW and St. Johns River.The compressor is quite loud when it's running. This is not a problem when the boat is running, of course, but it is annoying when at the dock or on the hook. My solution to that problem has been to make sure the air tank is fully charged prior to shutting down the engine, then unplugging it until I'm ready to get underway again.
The total cost to convert to the free-standing compressor unit was less than $300, including the mechanic labor to install it. A reasonably skilled owner could probably do it themselves for only the cost of the pancake compressor, the engine cover plate and a piece of wood for the compressor mounting plate. When the compressor goes bad, just pitch it in the trash, buy another one from HD, and hook it up to the air lines. Simple.
One of the considerations for which repair/replacement method to use is that an oil supply line runs through the compressor on my engine. My mechanic indicated to me that he had seen these lines leak frequently, and also that the engine-mounted compressor caused some power loss, although admittedly not much. Another consideration is that the compressor system on my boat is set up to feed a ten gallon air tank mounted on the aft bulkhead of the port engine room. The air horns and other air lines are fed from this tank, not directly from the compressor. Considering all these factors, I decided to replace the engine-mounted compressor with a free-standing compressor unit.
The replacement process was quite simple. We removed the engine mounted compressor, connected the oil supply lines going to/from it together, and installed a plate to cover the compressor gear drive hole in the engine. I purchased a six gallon Porter Cable pancake compressor at Home Depot for about $129. It fit perfectly on the floor aft of the box covering the stabilizer units. I built a square "pad" to go under it, attached the unit legs w/rubber feet to the pad, then screwed the pad to the floor. From that point it was a simple matter to plumb the air hoses through the new compressor to the bulkhead-mounted air tank. We set the compressor to maintain 90lbs. pressure in it's air tank at all times. Power to the compressor is supplied from the 120V outlet in the engine room.
We tested the above arrangement on our 500 mile trip from Ft. Lauderdale to Sanford in October. It worked fine the entire trip. We used the air horns frequently due to the number of bridge openings and fishermen anchored mid channel on the ICW and St. Johns River.The compressor is quite loud when it's running. This is not a problem when the boat is running, of course, but it is annoying when at the dock or on the hook. My solution to that problem has been to make sure the air tank is fully charged prior to shutting down the engine, then unplugging it until I'm ready to get underway again.
The total cost to convert to the free-standing compressor unit was less than $300, including the mechanic labor to install it. A reasonably skilled owner could probably do it themselves for only the cost of the pancake compressor, the engine cover plate and a piece of wood for the compressor mounting plate. When the compressor goes bad, just pitch it in the trash, buy another one from HD, and hook it up to the air lines. Simple.
