refinishing a teak fighting chair.....help!

[Capt. Tobb]

I am refinishing a teak fighting chair that was painted black, I had the paint striped by a pro. I have sanded all the wood parts that I plan to poly, my question is what kind of polyurethane should I use? second, is there such thing as a clear/light non skid that I can use on the foot rest, I hate the thought of covering the teak.. thanks....

 

[Mike36c]

We just refinished our chair. I used four coats of penetrating epoxy, enough coats until it can be sanded smooth with good coverage. Then we applied four coats of clear, lightly sanded smooth then applied four more coats of clear. I talked to Release Marine last year and they use west system with a topcoat of glass-r-ite. Here's an ok pic from the Bahamas two weeks ago. (we released the fish).

 

[hattitude]

We just refinished our chair. I used four coats of penetrating epoxy, enough coats until it can be sanded smooth with good coverage. Then we applied four coats of clear, lightly sanded smooth then applied four more coats of clear.

I refinished mine almost the same way.

I started with four coats of penetrating epoxy, then went with 12 coats of skippers varnish. The varnish started showing some wear signs, so I topped off the chair with four coats of Bristol finish.

After adding the bristol finish, I went a year with no wear signs, but added another coat for extra wear protection.

Good luck....

 

[Starman]

I am refinishing a teak fighting chair that was painted black, I had the paint striped by a pro. I have sanded all the wood parts that I plan to poly, my question is what kind of polyurethane should I use? second, is there such thing as a clear/light non skid that I can use on the foot rest, I hate the thought of covering the teak.. thanks....

Capt T.

While I am a huge fan of West Epoxy, I do not like using it as a pre-coat on wood.

Once you sand the wood, wipe it down with denatured alcohol to make sure there are no scratch marks in the wood from the sanding.

Use Epithanes or another spar varnish. I prefer the tinted varnishes for that nice golden glow.

Cut the first coat by 50% with thinner, then 25% for the next coat, 10% for the next 7-8 coats, and pure for the remaining 3-5 coats.

Sand with 220 grit between coats.


Follow this same process for the footrest.

Now comes the non skid. You can use awl grip non skid. The particles look white but will be OK when the varnish is applied.

Two ways to do this:

Mix some particles in the varnish , then apply.

apply a very very thin coat of varnish, sprinkle on the non skid, blow off the excess, let it tack up. While tacky ( almost dry) carefully apply another coat of varnish , But do not thin it. ( this takes practice with varnish )

So the first method is what most people use.

 

[thoward]

I used Bristol 2 part on mine. It turned out great. No sanding between coats! I put on 8 coats sanded then added 2 more it easy and it has held up well so far. I think I would varnish the whole thing and put the non-skid on as a few thin black stripes. I do not think varnish looks good with non-skid.

 

[Capt. Tobb]

thanks for the help.....I think that I am on the right track now...