re-bedding bow/deck rails

[workingonadream]

good morning all. just had an insurance survey done and they recommend re-bedding the rails on the deck. I have a 1979 46c and was wondering if anybody has done the job who can give me some insight on access points and degree of difficulty. it looks like a real pita getting the screws out. thanks.

 

[rsmith]

Start soaking them with PB Blaster. Get yourself a GOOD hand impact driver with new bits. Probably #2 Robertson Be prepared to redrill and tap most.

 

[mrdeepseafisher]

I have a question regarding a similar issue. I have removed several of the staunchions for my railing and had a few screws shear off. Are they screwed into an aluminum or steel plate or are they screwed into the fiberglass deck. I have to figure out how to go about replacing these screws and didnt know if I am going to have to drill and re-tap or just drill out and repair the fiberglass.

 

[Garyd1]

It is very important to get focused and really soak them with freeze off better than pb blaster. When you get done clean up all steel particles from tools, drill bits, taps or they will rust like this. Just terrible.

 

[workingonadream]

steve from sams said there is a metal plate under the toe rail that is tapped to take the screw.

 

[rsmith]

I'd drill and tap that for sure!

 

[Glory]

I'd drill and tap that for sure!

Selfless dedication, that's what separates the captains from the crew!!

 

[jim rosenthal]

There is a metal plate glassed into the deck, that the screws thread into. If they are the original bronze bolts (at least mine were held on by bronze bolts) they will be so corroded you will end up drilling them out. The best way to repair them, after you've drilled them out (I had to drill out thirty-six bolts) is to put a soda straw or something like it into the hole and pour thickened epoxy around the waxed straw. After it sets, you can remove the straw; when you install the new bolts, which ought to be SS, 316 if you can get it, you should put a little 3M 4200 on the ends of the bolts. I redid my bow rails this way, and we've had the rail off after that for a paint job, and no problems. And they don't leak, at least I don't THINK they do.

With regard to the photo, no one commented on the fact that in addition to the corroded bow rail, that boat also has a non-regulation life ring. This vessel is clearly not maintained to standard. A shame, really.

 

[workingonadream]

thanks jim. im just curious that if I have to drill the screws out and retap the plate, why would I have to fill the existing holes with epoxy. thanks

 

[kelpy]

What life ring?

 

[jim rosenthal]

Drilling the old bolts out is a huge pain. It is very hard to do it without the bit wandering and enlarging the hole. The bronze bases of the stanchions are cast for a 1/4-20 bolt, I think it is, so when you are finished drilling out the old bolts you have to make the holes that lead to the metal plate in there back to 1/4".

My solution was to use waxed soda straws and pour the epoxy in around them. Once it's set, you pull the straw out. That leaves you with the hole at the bottom (yes, you will have to run a tap through it, you can do that before or after- before might be better, come to think of it) and a 1/4" round passage leading to it. If you use 4200 on the bolt threads you will be able to get them out when you need to, and they won't leak.

This was actually one of the first repairs I did to my Hatteras after I bought it. It seems to have been a good idea, as it is still holding up after all these years.

You may be able to get 316 bolts from McMaster-Carr. 1/4-20 is a fairly common size. You could also use Monel bolts, but I don't think you need to.

I think each stanchion base has three bolts, at least on my boat. What we DID drill out and retap was the holes in the stanchion bases for the setscrews. I used 5/16" SS setscrews to hold the uprights into the stanchion bases, and I tighten them every year. So far, so good.