Raw water system winterizing question

[mstailey]

Was wondering if closing the sea cocks and pumping antifreeze through the 1/2 inch drain plug at the end of the sea strainers would get the job done same as removing the 3" raw water hose and sticking it a 5 gal bucket with the engine running?

My guess is if antifreeze comes out the exhaust it accomplishes the same thing?

My only concern is would the raw water pump impdede flow as it is not spinning?

Reason for asking is removing the port engine raw water hose from the sea strainer looks like it will be a real PITA for these VT903 Cummins.

Thanks.

 

[Trojan]

I would not do it that way. You stand about a 100% chance of flooding the motor with antifreeze. You have no exhaust to force the fluid out. Once you get the hose off after not being off in who knows how long. It is easy each year after that. You could build a sealed box and place it over the hull inlet from the outside and pump antifreeze into it WITH the motor running. I have friends that do it that way. The excess antifreeze will drain back out from the strainers when you are through so you don't use anymore ether way. Messy. I find removing the hose is quicker, I can do it by myself, you don't need to get in or out of the boat and I get to inspect the hose at the same time. Besides I'm an old fart and once I'm in the bilge I don't like crawling in and out any more than I have to.

BILL

 

[yachtsmanbill]

FWIW... I just got back from Menards with 12 gallons of pink stuff @ $1.99 a gallon; no rebates necessary. ws

 

[mstailey]

Bill,
Just so I understand, how would I stand 100% chance of flooding the engine with antifreeze? Based on what you state would not backpressure suck in raw water under normal operations? Not arguing with you just trying to understand. After some research found this link from Groco. http://www.groco.net/07-prodcts-fs.htm.
Based on what they say it's the same thing I want to do without the expensive valve. Again based on what you state would this not work either?

 

[krush]

I doubt you will be able to pump the antifreeze past the raw water pump.

You can pull the hose off the raw water pump and fill the system with antifreeeze.

On my raw water cooled gassers, I just drain the blocks and manifolds and then pull the big hose off the water pump and fill the block up with antifreeze. I also fill the manifolds up with antifreeze. I've been doing this for years and never had a problem.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You could pull the impellor out and replace the cover and then pump it through. But it would be easier to just remove the hose from the strainer.

 

[Jaxfishgyd]

Mike,
MOVE to Fla...... The word winterizing is NOT in our vocabulary...

Well, yes it is.... Means wearing a long sleeve shirt or pants....

 

[Trojan]

Antifreeze could enter through the exhaust ports if there is any back pressure from the mufflers depending on your exhaust. And a little help from the shower heads. I could be wrong, but I won't do it that way. People have placed Tees in that line, but have still used the engine to suck the fluid in.


BILL

 

[jim rosenthal]

Here is a suggestion; instead of pulling the hose off the strainer, cut the hose at a place that is more or less convenient to you, and install a winterizing Tee. During boating season, the sidearm of the Tee is plugged with a standard pipe plug with the threads greased. When you are ready to winterize the engine, you close the seacock, unscrew the pipe plug and screw in your winterizing hose. I run about ten gallons of fresh water through each engine to wash the salt out, and then the pink stuff until it comes out of the tailpipe on that side. After I haul the boat, I open the seacock and whatever residual water is in the system above the seavalve drains out on the ground. Last thing I do is to unscrew the winterizing hose and screw the greased pipe plug back in. In spring, I just fire the engine up.

Yes it is a headache to cut this hose, because it is heavy stuff and usually wire-wound. BUT, it is more of a headache to pull it off the seacock, knowing you will have to do it every year. If you put in a winterizing Tee, you will do all this ONCE and then every year, it's a great deal easier. Close the valve, unscrew the plug, and Bob's your uncle.

 

[newinlet]

This is what I do every fall and it works well - 671 DD
1) Remove sea strainer cover, remove strainer, close valve
2) insert garden hose into strainer & run engine approx 5 min fresh water to flush engine, shut down engine Flush A/C & Gen as well
3) I use my fresh water tank to hold my non toxic anti-freeze, I use approx 25-30 Gal that takes care of the entire boat.
4) I simply feed each engine while running through the strainer cover opening until I see lots of pink stuff out the exhaust. shut down engine and your done. This method works well for a/c & gen.
5) I use a large rag around the strainer opening to avoid spillage, and I never worry about impeller damage because replacing the impellers is part of my spring maintenance.
7) In the spring I flush my freshwater tank a few times and I am all set. I never drink from the fresh water tank. never any odor or contamination however I have valves that by-pass my hot water tank.

Hope this helps

 

[JLR]

FWIW... I just got back from Menards with 12 gallons of pink stuff @ $1.99 a gallon; no rebates necessary. ws

FWIW... I just got back from Menards with 12 gallons of pink stuff @ $1.99 a gallon; no rebates necessary. ws

Bill - The lowest price around here is $3.50 a gallon for pink stuff. Highway robbery and I need about 45 gallons to do both boats. I am now checking to see if we have a Menards around here.

 

[mstailey]

Jim,
Yeah I thought of doing that. Matter of fact that is what I will do. I'm still going to replace the intake hoses as they look original and by doing so I know what I have.

Bob's your uncle - my wife is British so I hear that one at least once a week. The other British phrases I hear - well lets just say they usually come after I've not been, good.....

To all others - thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Capt K]

Putting a "T" in the intake line is the best way to go IMHO. I did this years ago with my 3" intakes and I'm thankful every fall.

The process goes something like this every year:

Close both intake seacocks.
Place large container in passageway between engine rooms.
Open plug in tee and screw in winterizing hose for engine #1.
Put proper amount of antifreeze in container.
Suck in antifreeze to engine #1.
Repeat process for engine #2.
Replace plugs in each tee.
Clean up equipment for storage for next year's use.
Open beer #1 and consume.
Open beer #2 and consume.
Rinse beer cans and repeat as necessary.

This seems to work fine every year!

Capt K

 

[Bob Bradley]

I've been doing mine in the water most seasons, and have a fairly simple process.

I remove the zinc from the raw water pump, and replace it with a barbed fitting. I close the raw water seacock, put one end of a hose onto the barbed fitting, and the other end into a bucket of antifreeze. I run the engine until I use up about 6 gal of antifreeze (I add to the bucket while it's being drained). By this point, the AF can be seen coming out the exhaust, and I shut down the engine. Only thing left to do is remove the strainer cover and drain out the strainer and hose. And, this is even optional, as the antifreeze usually runs back down into the stainer, displacing the water that is in there.
Bob

 

[Nick]

I do it the same way as Bob. This year I will add the beer steps that Capt K mentioned . After I am done I meet Capt K and have a couple more beers to celebrate the end of the season and hopefully short winter!!

I have thought about pumping the AF through the cooling system and suppose I would if I had to winterize on the hard. I currently winterize at the slip and leave the seacocks closed until the boat is hauled, then open all seacocks for the winter.