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Railings - 1964 41" Double Cabin

  • Thread starter Thread starter Escapade
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Escapade

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Joined
Jan 10, 2006
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21
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
41' DOUBLE CABIN (1962 - 1965)
The wood outdoor railing on the stern is begining to rot and needs replacing. Looking for suggestions on how (I am will to try to do myself if anyone else has) or who it can be done by. The stern railing does reguire a small bend.

The railing goes across the back and about ten feet forward and is two rails. Anyone with a DC or TC knows what I am talking about. Our port is mid Chesapeake Bay.

Patrick
 
I was looking at the wood grain on mine, and it doesn't seem like the wood is actually bent to shape. I think It was cut to shape - at least it is that way on mine..
 
The wood outdoor railing on the stern is begining to rot and needs replacing. Looking for suggestions on how (I am will to try to do myself if anyone else has) or who it can be done by. The stern railing does reguire a small bend.

The railing goes across the back and about ten feet forward and is two rails. Anyone with a DC or TC knows what I am talking about. Our port is mid Chesapeake Bay.

Patrick


If you take some close up picks of the railing and decide to let someone else do it for you I would be interested in helping there. Some of the railing I have seen are actually several pieces of wood laminated together to make the rail, that is how the bend is put into it. the pics would let me know if they are laminated or solid wood. And is it just the stern railing or all of the wood railing. I am not that far from you in NC. PM me if interested
 
I took a close look at the railings on my 41'tc and the stern rail does appear to have been cut to a curve not bent. It looks like you might get it out of a 6inch wide board but that was just a quick eyeball measurement. ( raining)
Fred
 
It took all winter to straighten this railing out. Now my pole is bent. Hate it when that happens.
Eric
 

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I have pasted pictures of a replacement stainless steel rail. Search for hard aft if interested.

Ted
 
I replaced all of the railings on our 1965 41DCMY in 1984. I had a wood shop in Daytona Beach make a knife for their shaper to produce the correct shape/size. Cutting the curve of the aft rails from a wide piece of wood is probably easier than what I did.

I steam bent the two aft railings. I built a small boiler (homemade propane burner, section of stove pipe and coil of 1/2" copper tubing) and a steam chest long enough to hold the railings. I used two sheets of 3/4 " plywood joined together as a base for a template of the curve needed. I screwed 2X4 blocks in place on the plywood to form a template of the ID of the curve. I screwed a block at the OD of the curve at one end with a 2X4 over the railing to hold it flat. As I bent the railing around the template I added an OD block and hold down 2X4 at each station. When cooled the railings held the correct shape. There railings are still in perfect condition.
 
TedZ look excellent! What type of wood did you use?

I have pasted pictures of a replacement stainless steel rail. Search for hard aft if interested.

Ted
 
DCMY92,

I like what you did; I think I may take that path. What type of wood did you use for the new railings?

I replaced all of the railings on our 1965 41DCMY in 1984. I had a wood shop in Daytona Beach make a knife for their shaper to produce the correct shape/size. Cutting the curve of the aft rails from a wide piece of wood is probably easier than what I did.

I steam bent the two aft railings. I built a small boiler (homemade propane burner, section of stove pipe and coil of 1/2" copper tubing) and a steam chest long enough to hold the railings. I used two sheets of 3/4 " plywood joined together as a base for a template of the curve needed. I screwed 2X4 blocks in place on the plywood to form a template of the ID of the curve. I screwed a block at the OD of the curve at one end with a 2X4 over the railing to hold it flat. As I bent the railing around the template I added an OD block and hold down 2X4 at each station. When cooled the railings held the correct shape. There railings are still in perfect condition.
 
I used mahogany. If you steam bend them, be sure to select wood with straight grain and no flaws. On my first try I broke one of the two railings when putting it on the template. On the second (successful) attempt I soaked the straight railing in the river (fresh water) overnight before putting it in the steam chest. This worked much better.
 

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