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Racors draining

  • Thread starter Thread starter MadHatter53
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MadHatter53

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Aug 31, 2015
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
My racor 1000’s will drain below the fuel rail. There aren’t any isolation valves as I see some folks here have. There is no fuel anywhere to be found showing leakage. My fuel selector valves are set to off for supply and return. It was recommended to check the seal and float balls so I did find a fingernail like piece of rusty crud stuck on one seal other seemed fine. I didn’t have enough diesel to fill up my racors so I plan to replace seals and alum balls even though they appear good then top off and see what happens. I’m thinking that the selector valves could be faulty and allowing the racors to drain back to the tank.
IMG_1264.webp
 
Is that for one engine or both?
Do you have any vacuum gauges readings?

What troubles me, for fuel to drain away, air fills the void,,, air from where???

What kind of fuel valves? Original? Serviceable?
Pictures here may help.

Height of those racors vs the fuel tank(s?).
 
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That’s for one engine. The gauge shows vacuum until I pull the top. No pics of selector valves but they all move freely and might be newer as they have yellow handles unlike the solid metal I have seen pictured. The racors are mounted I would guess at least two feet above tanks and a foot above engine. I read here or else where that sometimes the return line is the culprit. I’ll be down this weekend with a jug of fuel and new seal and ball kits. This is my stbd engine where the valves are so it’s a short run to and from.
 
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It's draining back through the fuel pump and return line to the tanks. This happens where the seals in your racor start getting old and let air seep in, that or there's an air suction leak somewhere in the lines. Hatteras' are pretty unique for having everything in keel tanks, the fuel is below the engines, the racors, and the lines, the only thing that holds it up there is vaccum.
 
90% of the time it’s the oring on the handle. The fuel selectors go bad also. The oRings in the selectors get old and tear then leak back. I had the selectors go bad and were causing bubbles in the suction lines. Caused a low rpm roll at idle. Couldn’t get rid of it with the buffer screw. I plumbed in a sight glass I had from and old boiler. Sure enough a stream of bubbles were coming from the racor
 
just my 2 cents, but ck the o-ring around the handle as well as the gaskets around the top lid. I had this problem on our 58yf once when i skipped changing them with the filter.... Hope it helps.
 
i'm having the same problem on my 58yf, the valves and lines are newer, not original. anybody have the part number for the racor 1000 rebuild kit? i have replaced the filters, handle o ring and cap o ring several times, i plan to rebuild the whole thing this winter
 
I have the Racor cut sheets on 500, 900 & 1000s filters.
PM me with an email address and I'll send all PDFs to you.
 
I have the Racor cut sheets on 500, 900 & 1000s filters.
PM me with an email address and I'll send all PDFs to you.

Now that's a good idea. Then you can make the seals from something besides cheap chinese plasticky stuff that will go bad in a few years.
 
We rebuild our Racors every 2 years just so we don't run into issues.
Kit for the 1000 series: RAC-RK111404
Btw, the rebuild kit was $27 in 2018, $40 in 2024.....
Have been using this outfit for quite some time for all things Racor.
https://www.racorstore.com/
 
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thanks ralph..wemmsbhavin@aol.com
 
Well the check ball seal kit worked and my racors no longer drain out. Thanks to all for a quick and simple fix.
 
That was a short lived feeling of accomplishment.went down today to winterize and I’m back to the same problem and only out $100 and maybe an hour of my time. I’m considering putting a valve in so I could see which side it’s draining from.
 
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Had a feeling we would be hearing back from you.
What other fuel filters do you have past the Racors?
Any vacuum or pressure gauges installed?
Lets go back in your history; Any (ANY) service work preformed before your filters started leaking down?
 
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Normal engine mounted spin on filter and only normal maintenance changing out filters oil change etc. I have a vacuum gauge on the racors and it shows vacuum even after the draining and when I pull the top you can hear the air rush in. This has been since I owned it and i figured I would get to the source while going thru my to do list and just kept a jug of fuel to top off before starting. This leak would normally stop just below the fuel rail so when looking at the glass bowl it appeared full until you pulled the tops but now it’s below and is easily seen when looking at the bowls.
I have white oil rags below each filter and on any connections for fuel trying to find leak. I don’t get how it can drain down below the fuel rail and still have vacuum. I assumed it was the bowl drains at the bottom but never a drop below and it just stops at the same level and doesn’t completely empty the bowls.
 
I have the same problem and I know others that also have it. I installed shut off valve on the lines to the Racors and I turn off the normal fuel valves when not running. I make sure to run down to the engine room to shut off the valves immediately after shutting down the engines and open them and immediately start the engines. Seems to solve the problem.
 
I have valves on both sides of the racors so I can change without closing the tank selectors. Could be the shaft seal on the fuel pump. If it sealed when you first put them in your probably good from the racor to the tank. The fact that it’s leaking down now is probably crap got under the ball it’s not like a real check valve. Remember 99.99999% of racor leaks are the cap handle. Make sure you have the correct seal under the handle. And don’t goober it up with Teflon tape it never works
 
Normal engine mounted spin on filter and only normal maintenance changing out filters oil change etc
Could one of the other fuel filters be leaking air in?
Seals, O rings, gaskets,etc,, can do strange things when changing from positive pressure to vacuum.
Air is coming in from somewhere replacing the fuel draining aweigh.

Also, there is a trick to installing the new ball base seal; flat side to the ball.
 

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