Racor checkball removal ?

[llldks]

Running in rough water I experienced engine shutdown due to sludge obstructing the checkball on my Racor 900 filter. I had the tanks cleaned (at least that’s what I thought I payed for) only to have it happen again. Both times I was able to get home by changing the filter element but the vacuum pressures were still much higher than normal. I found sludge obstructing the checkball seat.
After reading the posts here about the fun of tank sludge removal, I read on Boatdeisel about removing the checkball from the racor filter as long as you have a fuel shutoff to prevent losing prime. I’m thinking between the tank manifold and my electric priming pump I’m covered there.

Any thoughts on this- has anyone done this?

 

[Captain Ralph]

Running in rough water I experienced engine shutdown due to sludge obstructing the checkball on my Racor 900 filter. I had the tanks cleaned (at least that’s what I thought I payed for) only to have it happen again. Both times I was able to get home by changing the filter element but the vacuum pressures were still much higher than normal. I found sludge obstructing the checkball seat.
After reading the posts here about the fun of tank sludge removal, I read on Boatdeisel about removing the checkball from the racor filter as long as you have a fuel shutoff to prevent losing prime. I’m thinking between the tank manifold and my electric priming pump I’m covered there.

Any thoughts on this- has anyone done this?

Star gear fuel pumps, when primed and working correctly will suck a golf ball thru a garden hose. Once that Racor ball is moving and the engine is running, that ball is not causing any high vacuum restrictions.
Get a new ball seal/gasket (Ball kit) and reassemble correctly "this side towards ball".
KISS

I have found lots of tank poop will collect in that plastic fuel spinner also (plastic part in your hand when you remove the ball).

I would guess your tank tube pick-up (screen if equipped) may have some poop or debris on it after tank service. Two ways to prove this; a vacuum gauge before the Racor or just pull the pick-up tube.

Keep a bucket and lots of 30 on hand. About every 2nd or 3rd Racor, change out the secondary filter.

If your tank was properly cleaned, these tank poo issues should clear after a while. If not, installing a separate fuel polishing pump could help.

 

[zigzag930]

Not sure I'd agree that the ball won't cause any restrictions.

When we purchased our 58LRC, it hadn't been run in a pretty long time. I suspected we'd have fuel issues when we got underway, so bought a case of Racors to have on board.

We have twin Racors for each engine, but run only one at a time so I can quickly switch over if there is any issue with high vacuum, etc.

For the 1st two days, we ran down the ditch from VA towards FL. No issues with clogs or vacuum increase. So, thinking things might be better than expected - day 3 we went offshore. It took about 2.5 hours of sloshing around in the ocean before both engines shut down. I wasn't able to switch over the filters in time so the engines starved for fuel and quit.

I tore down the Racors and both had what looked like seaweed in clogging the balls and turbines. Had to completely disassemble them, clean them thoroughly and re-assemble. Of course the engines wouldn't start and required bleeding. Fortunately, a DD tech showed me how to do that before we left.

We kept a close eye on the filters from that point on and switched Racors as soon as any signs of seaweed appeared in the bowl. Had to repeat this process about 5 more times, while adding BioBor JR. Finally 2 tanks later (1200 gal ea time) I believe we are problem free.

So from my experience it is very possible for those check balls to get clogged up. I have not replaced my check balls, but it is important to note the correct side up when re-assembling. I originally thought they went in one way only to learn I had them backwards. Luckily, this didn't appear to create any issue, but I have since learned to be sure the are in the right way.

PS - I did not have the tanks cleaned originally as I was told that tank cleaning wouldn't be completely effective and the DD's pump so much fuel through the filters that the fuel would eventually polish itself.

 

[MadHatter53]

Seaweed in your fuel ??

 

[zigzag930]

I called it "seaweed", but green organic slime is a better description.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Here are some pictures on my pick up screen, March 2013.
Yes, I have been here.

 

[llldks]

That is what I find impacted into the checkball seat on the Racor. I have to dismantle the bowl to clear it. Was wondering if by removing the checkball , after “X” number of filters changes enough sludge would be removed to replace the checkball.

 

[Captain Ralph]

This is the result of water and lots of diesel clean. Not from bio poo.
This will not go away till your water intrusion is fixed.

My Racor check ball passed it, that plastic fuel spinner under the ball clogged up but not so bad to stop fuel flow.
The Racor bowl would half fill with this goo and the filter was covered.

The fuels red dye started to look slightly different.

 

[Captain Ralph]

At first, I did not know I had a water issue, suspected a bad fuel purchase.

My after tank was cleaned also. I saw his sock filter fill and then clear up.
My Racors were full of this slime 2 weeks later.

Then I made my own portable fuel polisher.
Looking for better in / out locations for my new gizmos hoses, I pulled the pick up and found that stuff pictured 3 post back.

Pumped out lots of junk and was able to reach the far bottom end of the tank, that's where I found pure water.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Once the water was removed and fuel filtered for days, I felt my tank was finally clear of these issues. Went on vacation to the Dry Tortuga's.
The weather sucked for that 3 weeks. Rain near every day. Water came back in my Racors.
No Valve Tech fuel or fuel treatments this time.

When we returned home, I went straight for the fuel cooler,, again,, NOT.

One night, sitting in the ER pondering my hair loss, I looked up and saw a rusted out hose clamp that had slid down my stb fuel fill hose,,, to that tank..

And then I found IT.

The caulk had long failed under the deck fuel fill. Any water on the deck went under the fuel fill and would follow the hose down till it dripped off of the hose.
This would be wash water, sea water, rain water..
The hose clamps rusted and failed long ago. The top end of the hose had been getting wet with water for so long that the wire in the hose had rusted out. The hose end swelled out like a funnel. Now when water leaked under the deck fill, the water would drip into this funnel shaped hose end and into my tank.

Re-bedded the deck plate, new fuel fill hose, pump the water out one last time, problem has been gone now 9 years.

Sorry I bored everybody, But if llldks goo looks like my goo, I felt my whole story needed to be explained.

Water can find its way to get into your fuel tank on the strangest path.

I found my original slime was from my water issue reacting with Valve Tech fuel additives.
Convinced I had bad fuel with a bio issue, I poured in the diesel clean. This seemed to make my issue worse.

I have learned the hard way;
Bio Poo is dark, water snot is brown.
Snake oils can make some issues worse.

 

[cenger]

Captain Ralph you noted that diesel clean helped contribute to the problem in addition to water intrusion

This is the result of water and lots of diesel clean. Not from bio poo.
This will not go away till your water intrusion is fixed.

I was considering using a Cetane Boost (Diesel Kleen). Would you advise against using Diesel Kleen. I'm not having any problems; I was considering for preventative maintenance.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Captain Ralph you noted that diesel clean helped contribute to the problem in addition to water intrusion



I was considering using a Cetane Boost (Diesel Kleen). Would you advise against using Diesel Kleen. I'm not having any problems; I was considering for preventative maintenance.

If your fuel is clean and clear, use if if you need it.
Centan boost is real good for old fuel. IMO, if you have fresh fuel, it's not going to do a thing for you.

Unlike your car that relies on knock sensors to keep the timing just under that knock, then adding octane does let the ECM advance the timing a bit more until that first knock.
Your ole diesel engine is not going to change it's timing.

The best PM you can do for your fuel system, clean fuel, fresh fuel, clean tanks, clean filters.

My mistake was mis-identifying the snot and assumed bio poo of some kind. It was water reacting with the Valve Tech additives. When I added the Diesel Clean, it tried to suspend more water in the fuel and formed a snot line between the water and fuel. It was that snot you can see in the pictures.

 

[cenger]

Very helpful Captain. I have fresh fuel so I think I'll save the Diesel Kleen for winter.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Very helpful Captain. I have fresh fuel so I think I'll save the Diesel Kleen for winter.

I did not mean to, but I think I may have hy-jacked this thread.

I see your in Essex. Do you operate during the winter? Do you purchase winter fuel like big trucks?

Is there Valve Tech fuel retail pumps you use in your area? Do they change their formula during the winter?

We operate year round and I've never been sure of how the fuels up there changes for boats during the cold.

 

[llldks]

Will check for water entry as suggested but retrospectively, I'm thinking this wasn't a problem until I switched to Valve Tech.

Will switch away from Valve Tech.

Thanks.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Will check for water entry as suggested but retrospectively, I'm thinking this wasn't a problem until I switched to Valve Tech.

Will switch away from Valve Tech.

Thanks.

It is good stuff, it is reacting with something else in the tank other than fuel, Just like it started with me.
I originally thought it was a bad load of fuel.

 

[Play'N Hooky Too]

.....

 

[llldks]

My impression of the schematic is that suction moves the checkball down allowing fuel flow into lower glass chamber/centrifuge. Without suction, the ball floats up into seal preventing retroflow back to tank. Not sure about the ball not floating in diesel. It appears the checkball is only on the inflow side of the filter.

 

[Play'N Hooky Too]

It would appear that you are correct. I should have looked at my manual before posting. Sorry.