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Quick help on Naiad Stabilizer

  • Thread starter Thread starter OBXTucker
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OBXTucker

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' LRC (1975 - 1981)
We're supposed to head out early tomorrow mad my stabilizers are showing low fluid.
Does anyone know where to fill these? There's a mushroom shaped cap on top of the canister, but it doesn't want to come off. Feels like a relief valve.

I have the manuals, but they just say "fill to full level".
Naiad 251.

Thanks!!
 
The cap should wriggle off with a little effort or prying; otherwise, if it is like the 252, you can unscrew the bolt it is attached to, which is what I did once. Make sure you use the specified oil, 10-40 in my case, running it through a coffee filter is a good idea as well.
 
A prior owner put a "Fill TO" mark on my site glass. It is half way up the site glass. Seems to work just great for what this info is worth.

Bruce

Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY
Tampa
 
Unscrew the breather and add 10w40 there. If the oil hasn't been changed in a while or if it is dark in color, you should change it. Stabilizers are one of the most neglected systems on the boat. Oil change is easy as you just remove the return line and let it pump into a bucket. Then refill and loosen the inlet line at the pump to re-prime.
 
Unscrew the breather and add 10w40 there. If the oil hasn't been changed in a while or if it is dark in color, you should change it. Stabilizers are one of the most neglected systems on the boat. Oil change is easy as you just remove the return line and let it pump into a bucket. Then refill and loosen the inlet line at the pump to re-prime.

This is worth doing every 2-3 years when you service the fin seals.

Bobk
 
you may want to verify ith Naiad, but they tol me for my 251-1 system to use 40 weight, not multi weight. Which is great - everything on the boat runs on the same oil.
 
Check the piping layout also, my Vospers have an oil filter in line which took me forever to locate, was a fairly easy cartridge to find and replace.
 
Thanks for the comments everyone. Greatly appreciated!
Interestingly, after cruising for about 30 minutes the lights went off and the fluid level rose to the middle. I'm guessing that since the entire systems have been powered off for the past few weeks, the levels settled down to the "needy" range and in didn't allow them to warm up properly.

I read thru the manual in its entirety last night (boring as hell!), but now know a lot about the 251-1. TopHatt, you're correct about the 40W. Nice to know, since there's plenty aboard at all times.

Beautiful day on the bay. We loaded up the coolers with 20-40 pound Rockfish!,

Happy New Year everyone.
 
Thanks for the comments everyone. Greatly appreciated!
Interestingly, after cruising for about 30 minutes the lights went off and the fluid level rose to the middle. I'm guessing that since the entire systems have been powered off for the past few weeks, the levels settled down to the "needy" range and in didn't allow them to warm up properly.

I read thru the manual in its entirety last night (boring as hell!), but now know a lot about the 251-1. TopHatt, you're correct about the 40W. Nice to know, since there's plenty aboard at all times.

Beautiful day on the bay. We loaded up the coolers with 20-40 pound Rockfish!,

Happy New Year everyone.
The level does rise once they are up to temp. Mine read low for about the first 10 minutes of running. Don't know the model off hand but they take 10W40 according to Naiad.
 
Jeff - I use 10 40 and never fill above the half mark on the sight glass.
 
You can use straight 40W but the system will not operate properly until the oil comes up to temp. 10W40 is best.
 

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