Quick electrical question for you "technical historians"!

[Vince]

​Good Morning All:

In my search for my next boat, I swore-off two things. As much as I love the big, old, Hatts, I said I would eliminate big thirsty complex engines with multiple turbos and 32VDC Systems.

So, here's the question....how do I know which sizes, years and models have 32VDC systems and what was the progression after that? This is not something that is listed on any of the brokerage listings. The engines, are pretty obvious, but I'll bet someone can tell me something about the evolution of Hatteras's DC systems.

Much as I'd hate to leave the brand, I've even looked at some Berties with the 32VDC's as well, so now it's a "thing" with me!

Thanks all,
Vince

 

[oscarvan]

​Good Morning All:

In my search for my next boat, I swore-off two things. As much as I love the big, old, Hatts, I said I would eliminate big thirsty complex engines with multiple turbos and 32VDC Systems.

So, here's the question....how do I know which sizes, years and models have 32VDC systems and what was the progression after that? This is not something that is listed on any of the brokerage listings. The engines, are pretty obvious, but I'll bet someone can tell me something about the evolution of Hatteras's DC systems.

Much as I'd hate to leave the brand, I've even looked at some Berties with the 32VDC's as well, so now it's a "thing" with me!

Thanks all,
Vince

The DD's ARE simple. Even with turbos. No injection pump, no ECU. Everything else that came after and develops 400 or so horses has a turbo and an ECU. Unless you want to install a 8 foot long antique...... Or are happy doing 7 knots with a Perkins.

32V is not more complicated. It's exactly the same as 12V except there's more battery on one end and a different bulb on the other end. Yes, sourcing things may take a little more time. AFAIK all Hatts are 32V until the $$$$ modern boats.... (I may be wrong here)

Some people convert the house side to 24V..... Not complicated just labor.

ALL old boats are going to have projects.

 

[finatic]

I live 2 miles from the Hatteras factory and my next door neighbor retired from there after 28 years. Hopefully I'll see him tonight and I'll ask him about the 32VDC phase out.

 

[rustybucket]

I'd kinda echo what oscaravan says. The old DD's are about as simple of an engine as you can find. If you have air, fuel and compression they are running. You are correct on the BIG issue, they are big and heavy. Newer 4 stroke and electronic engines are great and all, until you have a problem with them. I'd actually greatly prefer detroits over some of the more issue-prone 4 stroke models from other mfg's. That being said, there are some really nice repower options from the big marine mfg's

On paper a 32v system is better than a 12v system. In reality it can be somewhat of a pain to source the 32v fixtures sometimes, but everything I've looked for has been easily orderable and shipped right to my doorstep within a few days. West marine even carries some of the 32v essentials usually, light bulbs, bilge pumps...etc.

I guess what I'm getting at, there are a LOT of things that would sway my opinion on a boat purchase, but detroits and 32v would NOT even be in the decision tree of deciding factors.

All that being said, we have considered changing to 24v, and may still do this someday. I really hit a 32v deadend when looking at underwater lights. I really hate to change everything over to 24v just b/c of this but it may end up happening. We did find some 110v underwater lights and are exploring that option, honestly I think I'd rather have the underwater light load on the gen rather than the engine banks.

 

[Pascal]

Most boats already have a dual DC system as some things are not available in 24v. VHFs, some Sounders and marine Stereos are usually 12 VDC not 24. So adding a couple of extra circuits to the 12v system is no big deal. In fact every 24V boat I ve run had a factory installed 12V subpanel typically powered by the generator battery

 

[Cricket]

Rusty, please please do not put in 110V AC underwater lights.
Just get a voltage reducer to use with some 24v led underwater lights.

Btw, changing your boat over to 24v will be like having a party compared to you're other projects.

 

[SEVEN]

I'd kinda echo what oscaravan says. The old DD's are about as simple of an engine as you can find. If you have air, fuel and compression they are running. You are correct on the BIG issue, they are big and heavy. Newer 4 stroke and electronic engines are great and all, until you have a problem with them. I'd actually greatly prefer detroits over some of the more issue-prone 4 stroke models from other mfg's. That being said, there are some really nice repower options from the big marine mfg's

On paper a 32v system is better than a 12v system. In reality it can be somewhat of a pain to source the 32v fixtures sometimes, but everything I've looked for has been easily orderable and shipped right to my doorstep within a few days. West marine even carries some of the 32v essentials usually, light bulbs, bilge pumps...etc.

I guess what I'm getting at, there are a LOT of things that would sway my opinion on a boat purchase, but detroits and 32v would NOT even be in the decision tree of deciding factors.

All that being said, we have considered changing to 24v, and may still do this someday. I really hit a 32v deadend when looking at underwater lights. I really hate to change everything over to 24v just b/c of this but it may end up happening. We did find some 110v underwater lights and are exploring that option, honestly I think I'd rather have the underwater light load on the gen rather than the engine banks.

I agree totally.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

All that being said, we have considered changing to 24v, and may still do this someday. I really hit a 32v deadend when looking at underwater lights. I really hate to change everything over to 24v just b/c of this but it may end up happening. We did find some 110v underwater lights and are exploring that option, honestly I think I'd rather have the underwater light load on the gen rather than the engine banks.

I don't know how much load underwater lights pull. I'm 32V with a 24V Maxwell windlass. And while I realize this is not the textbook way of doing things, it runs just fine on 3 of my 8V house bank batteries.

I also have a 24V bow thruster with its dedicated group 31s. That could be a source for the lights if you had a set-up like that.

 

[rustybucket]

I don't know how much load underwater lights pull. I'm 32V with a 24V Maxwell windlass. And while I realize this is not the textbook way of doing things, it runs just fine on 3 of my 8V house bank batteries.

I also have a 24V bow thruster with its dedicated group 31s. That could be a source for the lights if you had a set-up like that.

I have considered that and was promptly told that was not the right way to do things lol.

 

[Photolomy]

I would expect that they went away from the 32v system the same time they went away from the series 71 engines. When everything went 4 stroke in the 90's. I have to agree with everyone here, the 32v hasn't really been the issue I thought it would be. Everything seems to be available, and I run 12v stuff off of the generator battery, and I might go ahead and add a second in parallel. And the engines are actually simpler than newer engines. Much simpler. Big and old and leaky is accurate though.

 

[Pascal]

Rusty, please please do not put in 110V AC underwater lights.
Just get a voltage reducer to use with some 24v led underwater lights.
.

There is at least one manufacturer selling marine 120v underwater lights, I don’t remember the name off hand. They were HID and installed on many new yachts a few years back. There was a power supply inside the transom so i believe the bulbs were lower voltage. The lazzara 84 i run had them but when one failed I had them replaced by 24V LEDs since by then they were 7 years old.

 

[bigbill]

my 1977 46 hatt sf was 12 volt. my 1972 58yf was 32 and now is 12

 

[oscarvan]

I would expect that they went away from the 32v system the same time they went away from the series 71 engines.

On the 53 that would be '83-'84-ish...... then the very last '85-'86 I think were 6V92's

Are the '83-'84 to end 53's not 32V....?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

32V was a function of engine size. Back in the 60's and 70's, if you had big enough diesels, you needed 32v systems to be able to get electrical starters and wire sizes small enough to start them.

For Hatteras, that meant that the boats with smaller engines, up to and including the 43Dc, had 12v systems. The 53 and larger had 32v systems and those continued throughout the AMF years. Genmar phased them out in the late 80's.


I have owned my 53 with 6v92's for 16 years and have never had a problem sourcing anything I have needed to maintain my 32v system.

 

[finatic]

OK, got this from the head engineer at Hatteras who used to be in charge of electrical systems. They switched from 32 to 24 volt in 2000. He wasn't sure of the first serial number but said if you call Hatteras directly they can tell you.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Paul has changed departments at Hatterass.
Contact C.D. Piner <cpiner@ha******yachts.com> for exact dates and support.

 

[Captain Ralph]

BTW
We still run our 42 year old 32Vdc boat with ole Detroit's. NOTHING could be simpler.

 

[jim rosenthal]

In addition to DDs being very simple engines which will run forever when cared for, you have another advantage on an older boat like a Hatteras: when I repowered my 36 convertible, 1971 vintage, Cummins "remans" were available which are mechanically injected diesels. They don't have ECUs, common rail pumps, or any of that. They make plenty of power, the boat will do thirty knots, and they are clean and reliable. Mechanical Cummins diesels are available up into the 450hp range, I think. And they start and run on 12vdc. Although, honestly, if an older Hatteras has been decently maintained, you're going to spend a lot more time and effort on things other than the 32vdc system. That will not be one of your worries.