Polishing Algrip

[bobk]

I'm considering having the Algrip on my hull 'polished'. A local contractor has suggested using 3M compounding products and or McGuires cleaner wax depending on how much chalk is present. I proposed 3M Finesset and Awlcare finish. I'll be running the AICW and all the tannin-loaded waters on my way north. I'd like to hear any experiences with these treatments, and especially if they will survive the trip without getting the ICW mustache back. The Algrip is Insignia White and about 8 years old. It has some mars and scuffs and is dull overall. Compounding/McGuires will be $300 labor, Finesset/Awlcare $400 labor plus I supply materials.

Bobk
Chateau de Mer
1981 48MY

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Wow, what a deal! I pay twice that for doing the hull. But I have Imron, so I can't really comment about what to use on Awlgrip.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Awlgrip isn't meant to be compounded or buffed out. You would be better off with a thorough cleaning and then the Awlcare. Linear polys like AG don't have shine all the way through, at least not durable shine. Acrylic urethanes like Imron and Awlcraft DO, which is why they can be buffed or compounded.

 

[saltshaker]

Wow, what a deal! I pay twice that for doing the hull. But I have Imron, so I can't really comment about what to use on Awlgrip.

X2 on all of this. I paid $14ft just for polishing the hull only on my 46C. Recently quoted $1800 for the topsides and $1000 for the hull on the 65C.

 

[Boatsb]

Awlgrip does not take to the compounding well. A real good cleaning and polish is the way to go. Imron polygrip and awlcare are much different in the way they cure.

 

[Canuck Dennis]

Yep, do not machine awlgrip, the rep told me...no more than Mcquires one step, by HAND..no machining, that's what I do on my 70 ft..and still good since 1998..

 

[TopHattandTails]

For polish, I've had great luck with Rejex Polish.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Rejex? I've looked at that, but haven't tried it. What was your experience, and how long did it last for you?

 

[GJH]

I have used Rejex on my hull almost since I bought the boat. Love it. Virtually eliminated the ICW mustache, and what there was came off with a good hosing and at most a very very soft brush or chamois if we'd not had the chance to hose down for awhile due to anchoring or mooring out. Lasts about two years for me of active cruising. Just in the process of the bi-annual freshening.

Finesse-It II is a glazing, not a compound. It really brightened things up the first time we very lightly polished the boat, then applied Rejex. Only touched up a few places a couple years later. This time, we are using Collinite Fiberglass Boat Cleaner for a few spots before Rejexing. Coming out pretty nice.

As noted, the surface has to be very clean before applying Rejex, or Awl Care. And it is important to follow the directions to the letter.

 

[TopHattandTails]

My typical annual process is Finesse It II, then Rejex. Lasts about 4 months with weekly scrubbings with soap. Using soap is not advised, but I put another coat of Rejex on during the season. This year I had the boat clay barred then Rejex. What a pop and shine with clay bar. Showroom perfection on 32 year old paint!

 

[dcate]

X2 on all of this. I paid $14ft just for polishing the hull only on my 46C. Recently quoted $1800 for the topsides and $1000 for the hull on the 65C.

X3. About what I pay on the original Imron. I don't think anyone would come and take out the trash out for 300 dollars.

I take that back. My neighbor installed my sat tv for free.

 

[bobk]

Thanks guys. FWIW, a wash/polish at Edwards Boat Yard on the Middle River, MD is $10/ft up to 50' with a haul and paint at $14.50/ft.

Sounds like a real divergence of experience with Rejex; two years vs twice a season? Any ideas on why? And where do you buy Rejex?

Bobk

 

[TopHattandTails]

Bob- I would guess typical expectations should be about 12 months. The best way to lengthen the duration is to use no soap. Only water and a shammy. I'm probably over doing it with two professional polish jobs a year (March and August). But I've found that the shinier the boat, the more fun I have!

 

[GJH]

Bob, you can buy it online direct, they are the same company that makes Corrosion X and often have package deals. A little goes a long way; two small bottles does my entire hull side. A gallon did the whole boat a couple years ago with product left over. Many hardware and auto stores sell it too, very popular with car guys.

There really is no need to use soap when washing, quite the contrary, it defeats the whole idea. Maybe something like Awl Wash I suppose.

 

[MikeP]

Imron, in the old days recommended not using wax/polish, only soap and water to maintain the finish. I sprayed a lot of it on Mcycles, cars, and a couple of airplanes. Per Dupont, wax would dull the gloss over time - didn't hurt the paint, just put an unnecessary coating over it. Our boat was re-Imroned in 1994 by the PO and he and I have never waxed it. It still looks brand new when freshly washed and I get lots of "was this boat just painted?" questions. I don't know anything about current Imron which now has a bunch of different formulations; when I sprayed it there was only one kind of "Imron." I also I don't know if any of the current Imrons are as durable as the original. Somehow, with all the current regs...I'm doubtful.

 

[madhatter1]

True Value hardware store carries Rejex. I am going to try it since my 3 year old awlgrip does not shine as well as the previous Imron did with good wax. $20 bucks so worth a shot.

 

[TopHattandTails]

Just remember that the "shine" is only as good as the "rub out" and the Rejex will only protect that shine.

 

[madhatter1]

Quote from OP: It has some mars and scuffs and is dull overall. The dull overall is what I noticed about my paint. I used Maguires premium wax like I always have and water beaded nice but still looked dull. Yesterday I gave the boat a good wash and last evening I was able to get a coat of Rejex on most of the topsides. I spent extra time to be very thorough in both the application and wipe off. At first it looked OK, better than wax but not perfect. I continued on with the shineys on the deck. I figured it will look a little better and hopefully the boat would at least be easier to clean this summer. I finished at around 7:30 and took an overall look. The front of the cabinhouse and flybridge that just looked OK now looked great. Product says it air cures over 12 hours so maybe that is why. Rained at 4 AM but I think it will be OK since the big sections got 10 hour cure time.

So here is the bottom line. The paint and wax formulas change over the years. I think that is why what used to work gets different results now. Other posters vouch for look and how long it lasts. I got 100% the look I was after. Time will tell for how long it lasts and if it cleans easier for me. For the OP I would reccomend getting a section cleaned up good and apply some Rejex in an area the sun and elements can hit. Wait a few weeks and see if it works for you. In a few weeks time mine will have seen Florida sun, salt spray, sunscreen, fish blood, and plenty of squid dried on it. I'll post again later with results.

 

[bobk]

Thanks guys. I see a couple of different RejeX products. Just to be sure I get the right one, is it Rejex 61001?

Bobk