Please review and recommend repairs for hull/deck concerns, Thanks

[Eddieclemons]

#1. Stained deck at rail to deck area. This is the only place like this I have. It is right behind the fuel fill. I was thinking about removing screws, sealing with 5200, and cleaning up as best as possible?

 

[Eddieclemons]

#2 Pulpit to deck is unsealed. Should I seal around the base to deck all the way around and with what?

 

[Pascal]

Unusual on a hatt... looks like what you see on a Taiwan boat... the stanchion is rusting from the inside. Did someone repaired this with sun standard SS? Only way is indeed to lift it, clean and seal

 

[Eddieclemons]

#3 Old deck exposed repair/filled spots. How should these addressed until the next non skid painting?

 

[Eddieclemons]

4. Unused tie down mount for old life raft mount on bow. Remove screws and reseal with 5200? Long term I will decide if the mounts will be utilized or removed on the next non skid.

 

[Eddieclemons]

#5 Crack with discoloring. How should I repair/seal until next non-skid paint. I have only found one of these.

 

[Eddieclemons]

Unusual on a hatt... looks like what you see on a Taiwan boat... the stanchion is rusting from the inside. Did someone repaired this with sun standard SS? Only way is indeed to lift it, clean and seal

That would make sense since this is the lowest and last Stanchion. I will take a look for a repaired section. Thanks.

 

[SEVEN]

Pull and replace with new 316 SS but not with 5200. Use 4200. Urethane caulk around section 2. Number three looks like screwheads are popping. I would dig those out and patch with appropriate patching material like 4200. The craze cracking can easily be filled with the next coat of paint it doesn’t look that bad to me.But since they’re just photos I would consult a boat yard just to make sure.

 

[RyanB]

Urethane caulk around section 2.

I too need to address a few areas around my pulpit that are missing caulk. Is there a preferred or specific Urethane Caulk that should be used?

 

[jmooney]

#1, I think that this is from the sealant failing under the stanchion, remove the screws carefully, as they might have an aluminum plate underneath. Clean and reseal . I use Lifecaulk polysulfide .
#4a , the core is probably wet under the screws, as soon as you remove one , this will be apparent if so . Drill the screw holes out and fill with thickened epoxy. I have heard that most sealants last about 9-10 years at most , and fittings should be re-bedded before this .
Also referencing #s 3a,b,c, and 5a , I have this too , and I don’t have a clue what caused it.

 

[Captcoop]

I have had the stain at the rail issue before. It's not the screw it's the core stain. I cleaned the stain and made a rubber gasket to fit the base and no more stain.
Good luck

 

[Eddieclemons]

Thanks for the responses, I have caulked the pulpit and plan to reseal the rail that was causing the rust spots. I will update with what I find when I remove the screws.

 

[Briankinley2004]

You can remove the rust stain with toilet bowl cleaner. It will probably come back until the cause is addressed but it will look better in the mean time. On those divots you probably need to sand the old non skid off and use a fairing filler. I like Awlfair but its not cheap. You can mix your own using micro-balloons. When you're sanding off the old paint it will reveal if the cracks in the other pictures are in the paint or glass. If in the glass grind them out to past where they disappear. If just in the gelcoat then you can using epoxy fairing for that as well. If you are going to redo the entire deck you could probably remove the railing and re-bed while you are painting. That would keep you from having to cut in around it. My pulpit is missing caulk like yours. I temporarily sealed it with marine grade silicone as I am going to have to pull it to fix some rotten core this winter. I like using 3M 4000 caulk as it is UV resistant. I will either use that or glass the pulpit in when I re-do the core.

This guy here has some pretty good videos on glass repair, caulking, painting, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJdkuQk6m936-evd4aRbf4g/videos

 

[Eddieclemons]

#1. Stained deck at rail to deck area. This is the only place like this I have. It is right behind the fuel fill. I was thinking about removing screws, sealing with 5200, and cleaning up as best as possible?

So over this last week I noticed that this came back after being cleaned up with no repairs as of yet. The boat has been under shed but the bow rail still can get a little rain on it if it blows. 1st question, Does water get in most rails and if so how is it supposed to get out?2nd, when I reseal do I seal around the screws or the screws and the whole base?With a big freeze coming I loosened the screws and pushed the rail to let out a good amount of water.My girl missing her lifetime home in Florida, but we are going to get her fixed up soon. Thanks

 

[oscarvan]

I want to re-emphasize the above mentioned suggestion not to use 5200. I reserve it for things I will never, ever, want to take apart again.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I want to re-emphasize the above mentioned suggestion not to use 5200. I reserve it for things I will never, ever, want to take apart again.

Heat. It comes apart if you can get it hot. But that is about the only thing that seems to work.

 

[Eddieclemons]

I am direct on not using 5200. What I don't understand is how to seal the base? Screws and around screws only or ? If you seal the whole base how does the water get out. I am Assuming I would be able to make the rail waterproof with all those unions and screws that hold the unions? Thanks,

 

[Eddieclemons]

I am direct on not using 5200. What I don't understand is how to seal the base? Screws and around screws only or ? If you seal the whole base how does the water get out. I am Assuming I would be able to make the rail waterproof with all those unions and screws that hold the unions? Thanks,

Make that, I am assuming I would NOT get the rail waterproof.

 

[rsmith]

You need to post a picture if it’s the stantion base you want it sealed so you don’t get rust stains from moisture underneath. And you definitely want the screws sealed. Any water that finds its way in the tube will eventually evaporate. Disregard the crybaby’s use 5200 it’s the only thing that really seals.

 

[Eddieclemons]

You need to post a picture if it’s the stantion base you want it sealed so you don’t get rust stains from moisture underneath. And you definitely want the screws sealed. Any water that finds its way in the tube will eventually evaporate. Disregard the crybaby’s use 5200 it’s the only thing that really seals.

Last stantion base going AFT on the Port side, there is another one that is not near as bad on the Starboard side, not exactly sure of it's position.