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Plank versus Vinyl

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Photolomy

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53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
I am in the middle of re-doing the galley, and I was pretty much decided on vinyl because I felt it would be a better fit to a floor in a boat, but now I am looking at the laminate planking. Does the laminate planking stay down well?
 
Don’t do vinyl it’s slippery and chips
 
I was talking vinyl sheet.
 
We put down what is called an engineered wood , 1/2 inch thick , 5 inches wide , and lengths up to 7 feet. The wear surface is 1/8 thick , so it could be sanded a couple of times, maybe more. It’s tongue and grooved. We used Bostic’s Best adhesive and also used stainless steel brads driven by a air powered nail gun . It hasn’t moved a bit. But it seems to be easy to make a mark on its surface This is sapele mahogany by Mirage of Canada. Eventually, we will do the whole boat. Other types of wood are harder , but we didn’t like the colors and grain.
 

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We did a thick LVP with a rubber backing, sorry the photo was taken before the project was finished
 

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We did a thick LVP with a rubber backing, sorry the photo was taken before the project was finished

Did you glue it down? Or is it floating?
 
no glue, it floats for expansion. Quarter round on the edges and not pictured is a hatch that helps hold it in place. No complaints after six months or so
 
We did a marine "teak" LVP. Glued down. Been really nice. Ripped up both sheet good and carpet. Only think I would consider instead is possible teak plywood with LOTS of finish.

Glue is standard on boats, expansion has not been an issue.
I have done floating in basements, etc...
 
Done, are we every really done?
Still have some trim. Just quick photo.

Edging is key. I have the CNC files ready to go for the steps. I have moved some of the smaller hatches to be cut walnut or hardwood ply or joined so I don't have to edge 2 sides and have sharp elements. CNC and filling some design in as well.


IMG_1423.webpIMG_1415.webp
 
What did you edge the generator room hatch with?
 
I had leftover peel and stick Vinyl from a kitchen. It held up well with all the foot traffic and what not. More then happy with it in my little 31C, if she was larger would probably go wood.;)
 

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Schluder. Expensive but the only good option I found (thanks to someone on the forum). When a bit nuts and tested out lots of profiles. Schluder now (Should) have a LVP line that they didn't have last summer.

The alum profile below fit over the cut edge of the plank and was nice. Not too sharp but clean. Better then the L that are around the head hatches.

The stainless steel round element (Photo not link) looks good on paper but is was two high and strange where 2 edges meet up. The Stainless is rolled, the alum is milled.

Only issue I found is that the miter edges are a touch sharp and could use a file or maybe a 90 over a 45 cut. The small hatches may be best without edging on both sides.

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-u...Same-height-Transitions/Schluter®-DECO/p/DECO

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Thanks. I will look into that more, it is available at Lowes. One thing I definitely do not want is sharp corners. My current plan is to used this...

https://jonnycorners.com

On the main gen-room door, I am adding hinges that swing the door up and out so that whole door + edges come up and are not touching the floor.
 
I have locking vinyl plank in my 42c. Its fine in the forward vee and the master but not in the salon. Every time I have to lift one of the large engine hatches it comes apart a bit. It is also a lot of extra weight on the hatch to lift. It is a good product just not for my application. I cant remember the name but I got it at Home Depot and is from Armstrong. When I redo the salon it will be with sheet goods that will reduce weight and there is more choice now than there was eight years ago. I will leave the other two areas because I'm happy with them. I like that trim from Schluter, it would allow me to do away with the aluminum angle that surrounds my hatches.

Walt Hoover
 
We used Lonseal cherry/holly vinyl. Holding up well so far.
 

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