Pitted Window Frames - ref: older boat issues / aka help the idiot!

[rangerscott275]

In the thread "Older Boat issues / aka help the idiot!" there was mention of and a picture of some galley windows & frames that are pitted and deteriorating....

I have similar issues to the photo of the windows that were posted and that others readers have mentioned seeing. I have some wood damage and the corners of the window sill are deteriorated and annodized (I think that's whats occuring). When I am off the boat for an extended time (especially if it rains when I'm away), I will come back and notice a pile of the annodized dust piled up on the countertop under the corners of the two galley windows, where this metal dust must have come with the water that must have been slowly dripping in. I would love to know 1) what to do as a short term solution to slow this down (I have recaulked all around the exterior trim of the window)? 2) how does one go about repairing this permanently - what are steps and / or specialists to help? thanks!

 

[Genesis]

The only way to fix this is to remove the frames and either weld or replace them. In all probability they will need to be replaced.

 

[Boss Lady]

I tried to salvage my original window frames, spent a lot of time and labor on them, acid bath, and bead blasting, but wound up scraping them. If you just need one or two windows done, there is a guy who does them here in NC, for a reasonable price, and uses the original extrusions that Sam's Marine stocks, plus they have all the felt, and rubber strips you will need. I needed to replace all of mine, including the helm windows. I decided to go with 316 stainless window frames over going back to aluminum when I saw a sample of the window frame. I am getting a new forward hatch and companion way door made out of stainless as well. I would contact Paul at www.starcarpentry.com and check out what he can supply you with, my windows will get installed in two weeks and pictures will get posted when they do. The stainless just kicks ass!

 

[MarioG]

Stainless is also really expensive. I to need to redo my windows. At Last years boat show there was a booth with a guy selling some new type of aluminum welding rods that would go on with a torch. he would demonstrate it's ease of use by welding a cracked valve cover and also by punching a hole in a coke can, then melting some of this aluminum on the hole. My father in law was impressed and bought a kit. I'll get the name from him.

 

[Boss Lady]

I can send you a piece of my old frames so you go by his booth and embarrass him when he tries to get that stuff to stick. The welding to a beer can trick is smoke and mirrors marketing. The beer can is almost pure aluminum, soft as butter because it does not have any other alloys in it, and does not reflect reality. Try using that miracle rod on something useful and you will find out it is a joke. If you a repairing things like heat exchangers (again almost pure aluminum) it should work, but their marketing is really very misleading. They prey upon your ignorance of metallergy. But their little demonstration is impressive! LOL

For the record, the stainless price I got from Paul was cheaper than the aluminum price I got from everyone else, and his aluminum price is even cheaper than that, so I would check him and then check some others and figure out what works for you.

 

[MikeP]

I had two of these pits on the inner aluminum portion of the starboard galley window near the lower aft corner.

I drilled out the pitted holes using a drill bit large enough to ensure it was in good metal all around the pitted portion. I then worked some sandpaper into the area and roughed it up as much as I could then cleaned the area with acetone. I then patched the hole from the outside (put tape over the holes on the inside) with JB Weld (another minor chemical miracle). When that had partially set up, I added additional JB weld over the hole from the inside. The repair has been problem-free now for nearly two years - no leaks, no white dust.

I am NOT claiming that this is a permanent repair but it certainly has proven servicable until you are prepared to remove the frames and weld/replace them. I must admit that until the repair shows some evidence of failing, I won't do any more about it.

 

[67hat34c]

I went through this in the last 2 years, I rebuilt 2 frames then replace the rest. was a waste of time to rebuild them. however by rebuild job is nice and it is holding.

to rebuild, take out the frame and the glass. sand blast them down. , i mean realy take some material off, drill out all screw holes larger as they will all be cooroded. inspect very closely as you will see small cavities that the sand blast did not get to, grind out with dremel using a carbide tip. then acid wash with ospho or alumiprep. dry immediatly with compressed air, use gloves when handling from here out. clean immediately with laquer thinner then paint with dupont 2 part epoxy zinc chromate paint. make sure it soaks into the cavities. that can dry for an hour,no sanding if you apply next process within short time after an hour. apply awl fairing then sand smooth, re prime any bare aluminum with zinc chromate then hit it with 545 primer then awlgrip top coat. I tried to weld the holes but unless you have a tig welder dont bother. Mig will not work very well, makes a mess.

now after you spent all this time, you still have old frames that may still coorode. by the way we did not reinstall with screws, drill a few holes on inside frame and use wood clamps with studs to screw into the holes. glue frames on with 5200.

 

[Banshee36]

I tried this once, spent a lot of money, new tempered glass, cut and weld, just to have the paint come off in a year or so. I had custom windows made from a company in FL. Mine are fixed, no leaks you can get them in many options. I think in hindsight I would have gone with the clamp install system, no screws.
JW

 

[rangerscott275]

It would be really nice to have new window systems in these galley sliding windows and especially in the main salon slider's as well. I'm not really a part of the "make it all exactly as original camp". I prefer upgrades that are better in terms of materials, efficiency, ease of use, etc while doing best to keep it looking 'close' to how it came. All these original sliding windows offer virtually no real insulation against elements as the gaps in between window panes are big enough to pass an icicle through!

 

[Woodsong]

hey...are you all calling me an idiot? Only I am allowed to do that!

 

[NAN-PO 41]

I had the same problems with the Salon windows in my 1966 41'tc and I had new windows made for less than I could buy new glass, w/strips and slides. I got them from Wynne Enterprises in Alabama. They are clamp ring construction so no screws on the outside. No connection to Wynn just real pleased with a quality product at a very reasonable price. Check out their website.
Fred

 

[rangerscott275]

thanks...will do just that!

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I really like the sliding windows. Itis nice to be able to air the salon out. I have blasted a water hose right at those windows and have never seen as much as a drop get inside. I am impressed with the original Hatteras system. Our boat has until now been in fresh water, and while the anodising is faded, we have no corosion issues. I did get rid of the wood blocks that keep the front glass from moving. Some thread on this site brought that up as a major source of corrosion. I replaced them with Starboard pieces. I do remove the glasses every 2 years and clean the tracks, replace the fuzzies and rubbing strips. I figure that is cheap insurance. I would get the extrusions from Sams, have the guy weld them up, and either Awlgrip them or anodise. If you spray Bo Shield T9 in the tracks, keep fresh fuzzies in there, and blast lots of water in them frequently, I think they will last a long time. If you leave dirt and salt water in there for months, you will reap what you sew.