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Parts questions on J&T 6-71TI

  • Thread starter Thread starter rwappleton
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rwappleton

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Mar 2, 2012
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
So far our trip from Charleston to Panama City has been flawless. Yesterday afternoon I noticed the Starboard temperature creeping up so I shut down to investigate. Bilge had anti freeze and coolant is pouring out the weep hole on the pump.

Got on the phone and found a Mechanic and asked for a suggestion where he could work on it. He suggested Maderia Beach (10 miles west) so here we are.

Someone on here suggested carrying a means to lock your shaft if you are running on one. I took the cheap and lazy route and bought a large aluminum pipe wrench. Who ever made the suggestion I thank you so much! Worked like a charm and easy on and off.

The engine coolant pump was not on my list of things to give up as they were both changed a few years ago. So my question is How long should these last and how much do they cost? Tried looking on the net and never could find one exactly like what ours look like and they were between 60 and 450 dollars. That's a big range!

Also since they were both changed at the same time should I worry about the other one?

Thanks:cool:
 
Those pumps are available at Florida DD, approx 155.00 plus core, be real sure you get the right one, rotation and ser. #, I would bet they are high output, you can very on removal by the style of impellor.
 
It depends on the engine part. I had the fuel pump on one engine shear. This is not a highly-stressed part, probably pushing about 80-90 psi. I did not replace the other engine's fuel pump as I felt this was an unusual occurrence.

Recently I discovered water in my fuel, narrowed it down to a leak in one engine's fuel cooler. This is a simple part, a tube-in-tube cooler, but the water is the return flow of the raw (salt) water as it exits into the showerhead. So it is warm salt water and somewhat corrosive. Both fuel coolers were 19 years old. I rebuilt both.

With a fairly recent water pump I would let the other go if I were operating in home waters where I could easily get parts and a mechanic. My boating, however, is mostly in the far Bahamas, where neither are usually available. In my case I would change both or at least carry a complete spare. And always carry spare rubber impellors.
 
The engine f/w coolant pumps have bronze impellers.
 
True. And these seldom wear out. But their seals do.

The ones that do wear out are the rubber raw water pump impellers. Advice here on the forum seems to be to change these every 1-3 years, depending on your use. If you just look at the way these are jammed into their housing you will always carry spares. It is really unbelievable that these things can last even a season. A failure will cook your engine.
 
OK I am one day older and a bunch smarter. The F/W pumps are side specific. Dennis you are right the TI's do require the HP pumps with have 5 impellers instead of four. Florida DD did not have one so it's coming from Baton Rouge next day air. Fanfare you are correct the only thing wrong is the seal let go!

More on this tomorrow film at eleven!!!!:cool:
 
The option of rebuild is not really worth the aggravation, is quite a job without the proper gear and facility. Re and Re is not too difficult, takes patience and good workmanship, don't forget to open the shut down flaps when done ..lol..
 
HOT OFF THE PRESS DATELINE MADEIRA BEACH, FL!!!!! Pump shows up via Fed-Ex and it's the WRONG one!!!!!!! We verified the part number and they shipped the one for the Port engine. We need the Starboard one. Saturday delivery on their nickel. Hope to be west bound by 1400 tomorrow.:cool:
 
We had one blow out on the DSC back in '08. When we received the stbd pump the registration of the holes was off! One had to be reemed out so it would pass the bolt.
We carry a spare of each side, along with an alternator, raw water pumps, impellers, and a mess of other things. Some day I'm going to build a boat.

The other difference with the HP pumps is that the blades stick out past the opening a bit as I recall.
 
That's what happened to me in Marsh harbor, wrong pump, but was the serial # screw up,, DD had used a ser # on the engine that was for a non J&T engine so the pump was standard, no fit, all my cost and aggravation.
 
Pump is on and leak checked! Lunch, fuel dock, and Clearwater by 1830. Bought the other pump too just in case. Great Mechanic Carl Leer 727-804-2585 professional, reasonable, and clean. He works North of Tampa on the beach side. Came highly recommended. Trevor his helper is the same way. They are in speed dial.:cool:
 

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