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Painting the bridge

  • Thread starter Thread starter captddis
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captddis

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Apr 21, 2005
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Hatteras Model
46' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1981 - 1984)
The 1982 Imron on the bridge is shot. I can do an ok roll and tip, but since the bridge is the most visible, I want it done professionally.

I am on the fence as to what paint to use. The yard uses a base coat/clear coat that is supposed to be a imron product. They say they have been using it for 8 years.
What worries me is they say it needs to be waxed twice a year.



Everything else on the boat from rub rail up is Awlgrip. Which starts to fade out after 5 years.


I am not a fan of Awlcraft, but wonder if it might be better for the bridge since it has the sun on it most of the day.
I am finishing the hardware removal today and take the boat on Wed so I need to make a decision.
Thoughts?
 
I have been a fan of the Awlcraft recently, it's hard to beat that old Imron though.

Original 1984
 

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Is there a stock-pile of original imron lying around somewhere? Or have it made overseas LOL. We need to go back in time to get good paint again!
 
Having looked at a few boats in Florida before I bought my 74 . Most of the boats I saw that were painted in awlcraft had at least all sections repainted that were in the sun with awl grip . It looks like the awl-craft doesn't hold up well in the sun . The boats had sections that look the paint is eroding away . It seems that the Awlcraft doesn't just dull out and fade as it ages . Kinda look alike splotches of paint just fell off. I would go awl grip ...Pat
 
Dave,
The new Imron Elite can be made up in a single stage. They just need to ask the paint shop to do it that way. That is what they used when they painted my stripes. I always worry about basecoat/clearcoat. I've see too many failing clearcoats. It seems that the clear and the base expand and contract at different rates through numerous heat cycles and eventually fail.
 
Sadly, Imron of old is gone and never coming back. BUT...the good news is that today's Imron ( and other two-parters) won't kill you as quickly when you shoot it without a proper respirator!
 
My experience on two trucks and one boat is that the clearcoat can't handle moisture. It was and is okay on vertical surfaces, but on anything remotely horizontal where the dew collects is where it fails and comes off in sheets. Personally, I will never use clearcoat again on anything that doesn't spend 99% of it's life under cover.
 
I've seen awlgrip last longer than any of the others here in florida. Awl craft did not impress me. Imron is not imron. Dan was talking about a new paint he was going to use but I don't know how it's going to last in the Florida sun.
 
I would use AwlGrip. With the Florida sun blasting down on it, nothing will last as long as it would under cover, but AwlGrip is made up to be rolled and tipped, if you want to do it yourself, and holds up really well. And you really can get an excellent finish that way.
 
I would use AwlGrip. With the Florida sun blasting down on it, nothing will last as long as it would under cover, but AwlGrip is made up to be rolled and tipped, if you want to do it yourself, and holds up really well. And you really can get an excellent finish that way.

I am ok with roll and tip, but I want this job sprayed and i have a fair amount of glass work. I removed the aluminum trim and want the holes glassed in. Also a number of old antenna mounts etc that I want gone.
It would also require a scaffold to stand on on the front.
I also like that the boat will be inside.
 
Definitely awl grip.

I love the look of it when sprayed well.
 
We've been using U-Tech paint once we ran out of the old Imron. The supplier was able to match our color perfectly, can't tell were the Imron is patched with U-Tech, our cockpit, bridge floor extension, transom, and hardtop are all painted with U-Tech. My custom Carolina center console's topsides and hardtop are painted with it after the original Awlcraft faded and it's been great, hull has PPG and it's held up well too. I do like Awlgrip for all things in the bilge.
 
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