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Painting Starboard

  • Thread starter Thread starter SeaWhisper
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SeaWhisper

SeaWhisper

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
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397
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
Has anyone painted Starboard with awlgrip paint? What method was use to prep the board and does the primer and paint bond well?

Thanks,
 
Nothing will stick to it.

Live with it or replace it.
 
What are you making out of the starboard? I have found that PVC board which is available in lots of thickness works great for many projects. It can be painted with Awlgrip. But you do not prime it first. Sand and top coat. I made new wing boards as well as my spray boards and have been working great. Also a lot less $$ than Starboard.
 
I would have thought PVC board would expand and contract a lot more than starboard in hot sun ??
 
Starboard is great when you need some thickness, say for bolting heavy objects to it. It's used in a few places on my boat; mounting the inverter and electronics. Also I replaced the crapped out hatches into the flying bridge console with it as they get stepped on and laid on all the time. I see it as a replacement for many applications of plywood. But again, no, you can't paint it. Can't say I've ever seen painted PVC, that's interesting..
 
Well that is good to know about starboard. I have a 53' MY, the PO had rear deck area enclosed with light ply and fiberglass below the teak hand rail. Over the years it has delamated to the point it's needing to be replaced. Looking for suggestions on replacement material. This is my late winter early spring project. Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
 
Mike, is this like the dodger boards on the side of the boat? If so, we replaced ours with a 3/16" phenolic plastic made by Formica. I'll look up the name of the material when I get to the boat later today. Very easy to cut and paint and it has held the paint well for two years now. Also, this material is available in 5' x 10' sheets.

BTW, I left you a PM on another subject.
 
Or....you could just call Sams and get the original dodgerboard material and make it look right.
 
For interior sections of the aft salon below railing/ windows, you could use teak.
 
I bought new corners for my aft deck enclosure off sams, some type of plastic. Held paint well so i'm ok with it, but they will carck if they are bent hard around a bolt, don't ask how I know. Bill
 
Bill,

They (corner panels) are made of bent Plexiglass, which as we all know will crack if one fails to insert a stern line into the chock properly. ..... don't ask.

Walt
 
What about the boards the goes from the bottom of the flybridge deck down and aft to the top of the handrail next to the wind doors. Are they structural and do the carry weight? I have water in them on both sides. All screws on top are resealed with 5200 including counsel edges and around the hatch.The edges are covered with caulking now where they meet the back enclosed area and inside where they meet the deck above. Are they going inside the deck on top or just caulked underneath the deck?Water maybe coming in from the lower edge metallic rail around the flybridge deck because it is encased by caulking and previously fixed with fiberglass but that didn't solve the issue obviously.Any help and advice you guys have is highly appreciated. Can I replace the two side panels with something else like fiberglass encased starboard? (Definitely need awlgrip finish)ThanksGus
 
Walter P said:
Bill,

They (corner panels) are made of bent Plexiglass, which as we all know will crack if one fails to insert a stern line into the chock properly. ..... don't ask.

Walt
Click to expand...

The corner dodger boards on the stern of my boat are made of the same material as the others, not plexiglass

Mines have a very nice shaped SS trim, about 3/4" wide on inside and outside to finish it. I assume it is original.

As to starboard, you can't paint it... won't stick. It s a great material though for many things, mounting pads as George suggested since screws hold very well. It can be use in bilges as it won't rot. I ve use starboard for dinghy and jetski chocks.
 
The wing boards at the wing doors are not structural in any measurable way that I have found. Several Hatteras Classic Club members, myself included have replaced them. I made mine from 1/4" PVC on inside and out with foam board sandwiched between for proper thickness. Then painted with Awlgrip. So no materials that can hold water or can rot. BoRds are 10 years old and still all good.
 
wndsr said:
The wing boards at the wing doors are not structural in any measurable way that I have found. Several Hatteras Classic Club members, myself included have replaced them. I made mine from 1/4" PVC on inside and out with foam board sandwiched between for proper thickness. Then painted with Awlgrip. So no materials that can hold water or can rot. BoRds are 10 years old and still all good.
Click to expand...

Wow you made my day.

So you can paint it with awl grip directly? do you use primer? and what about the front and back ends where the foam is exposed do you cover with anything before paint?

Also please tell me what kind of foam and what thickness did you use? marine foam?

Thanks again.
Gus
 
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Mine are 1 1/2" thick. So 1/4" pvc inside and out and 1" foam insulation in beteen. I epoxied pvc vertically however so when reinstalled the screws would have plenty of material to go into. In other words, the fasteners are not going into only 1/4" of pvc. I did the same at top and bottom. I paint pvc without priming. I have found that if you prime the pvc, it doesn't pass the scratch test. Simply sand with 320 and sprayed. As far as the edges, I chose to put teak trim because I am a brute for punishment,, but like a lot of wood trim on our boat. You can simply cover the ends with PVC and fair with thickened epoxy. I will attempt to post picures here but if not successful, send me your email and I will send.
 

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I must say I don't get all the fuss about painting starboard....it no different than painting port..now carry on!
 
Like this.
 

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wndsr said:
Mine are 1 1/2" thick. So 1/4" pvc inside and out and 1" foam insulation in beteen. I epoxied pvc vertically however so when reinstalled the screws would have plenty of material to go into. In other words, the fasteners are not going into only 1/4" of pvc. I did the same at top and bottom. I paint pvc without priming. I have found that if you prime the pvc, it doesn't pass the scratch test. Simply sand with 320 and sprayed. As far as the edges, I chose to put teak trim because I am a brute for punishment,, but like a lot of wood trim on our boat. You can simply cover the ends with PVC and fair with thickened epoxy. I will attempt to post picures here but if not successful, send me your email and I will send.
Click to expand...
Wow looks amazing. Where do you get the pvc boards from? the price I got was 250 for 4x8 sheet and need four of them. Did you use type 1 or type 2?Thanks for your help
 
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