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Painting cockpit with Imron

  • Thread starter Thread starter hwginc
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hwginc

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Mar 9, 2006
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136
Hatteras Model
45' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1984 - 1992)
I am preparing the cockpit floor in order to repaint I would like to use imron paint and roll the paint on ,will the paint flow and bond correct using this method or does it have to be sprayed I also would like your input on what gri to use for anti slip surface
thanks jack
 
Hi I've used both Imron and Awlgrip on a roll/brush or just roll aplication both require a different reactor for brush aplication. Both will adhere well to a surface sanded with 220 or less grit. My preferance would be Awlgrip I think it's more user friendly when aplied buy brush. I would also recomend you use the acelerator regardless of the temperature just use less than recomended if it's hot. Without the acelerator it takes to long to cure especially any heavy spots (sometimes unavoidable when brushing).

Brian Palmetto FL
 
Although they are both great paints Awlgrip is harder and will not take well to compounding and patching. Imron will be better to patch as it can be rubbed out. If you fish alot and will repaint the area every few years go Awlgrip. If its cosmetics imron is easier to patch and blend
 
Thanks, the cockpit is painted with imron now will awlgrip bond for wear traffic and endurance on top of imron
Jack
 
Thank You Very Much On The Site :)
 
will awlgrip bond for wear traffic and endurance on top of imron

Yes they are esentialy the same type of paint either will bond to each other or over a 2 part epoxy primer. As noted in previous posts Awlgrip is harder so that's good for decks. I haven't really seen much differance in the repairability of Imron over Awlgrip it seems to be the acepted wisdom so maybe I'm missing something. The Awlcraft version of Awlgrip is considered repairable but is only recomended for spray aplication.

My local distributor sells us Awlgrip for about $130 per mixed gallon the last time I priced Imron it was almost twice as much. Has anyone else seen that kind of differance in price?

Brian Degulis
 
MY dealer here sold me imron white 5000 for 119.00 for the 3/4 gal and 1/4
hardner the floor is in good shape :) but has a few deep stains \do I still need to use a 2 part primer or will a good sanding and cleaning do
 
Define good sanding and cleaning? Its hard to be sure but the primer will definately be better than just overcoating the old paint. A good sanding and cleaning, the Primer. a second light sanding and a real good cleaning then the top coat. Better safe than doing it twice.
 
I did the cockpit and the bridge of my 45' this summer. What I did was use Imron 555 (old hatteras color) and awlgrip activator, but left out the hardener. I purchased the best roller available, wool, painted a section about 7' X 7' and applied the antiskid (this is about as far as you can reach to shake on the antiskid). The antiskid is trickey. I took a plastic cup and put a really small hole in the bottom and used it like a salt shaker. Once that space is done, move onto the next space and repeat. I used about a quart of acetone in the cockpit to clean the surfaces before painting, take your time taping and make certain you press down the paint edge firmly. Mine came out like a professional job. BTW, I did two coats, one week apart.
 
George did you do any of the areas without the nonskid? How did that come out?
 
I prefer the salt shaker method above all others as well.

I roll on the awl grip, thin coat, shake the particles out of the pin holes until the top is all white. ( this means the bottom is all saturated ) then lightly blow off the excess with an air nozzel.

I then wait about 15 minutes, roll on the top coat, wait about 20 minutes roll on the second top coat and done. very even looking.

The trick..................

You must pull the tape at the right time. There will be paint on the tape and if it dries ( the paint ) it can make a mess of things when pulling the tape. Like wise, pulling it to early will get you some goo lines.
 
Boatsb, put it this way, I fished after the first coat. Some spots were not covered enough with the non skid, I wound up on my ARZ more then once. When I second coated, I put about the same amount on, and that made the deck safe. It's hard to see how much is going on. I held the cup up about 3' off the deck, and the stuff is simply invisible. I did'nt want too much on as that will hold the dirt and simply doesn't look as nice. I did want a little shine to ward off the dirt, and it looks nice. BTW, I did a lot of prep, but did not use any primer. Also, make sure you get a good carbon filter mask and nitrile gloves. You'll smell the paint and solvent coming out your breath for a few days. the stuff goes right through the mask and your pores. I practically knocked out my neighbors, but didn't need to have cocktails that night.
EDIT. sorry, I reread your question. Yes I did. as a matter of fact. Check out the owners pictures under G for George. You'll see a bunch of work I had done last year and all the touch up work I had done, that's the formula they used.
 
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George said:
You'll smell the paint and solvent coming out your breath for a few days. the stuff goes right through the mask and your pores. I practically knocked out my neighbors, but didn't need to have cocktails that night.
used.


LOL,

You got that right....BUZZ for sure !

George, if you ever have to do it again, try it the way I do it. shake it on until the top is white.........thats when the particles below soaked up all the paint there is, and it will be even .

I use coarse particles, because after the two top coats, you can still walk on it barefooted.
 
I just did this job to the aft bulkhead, cockpit and decks of my boat using the AwlGrip. I have found that with practice it really does produce excellent results. The key is being very thoruogh in the preperation and consistent in mixing the paint. I prefer the thin foam rollers as they seem to give me a better overall finish and I always do multiple coats - min 2 usually 3. The AwlGrip stands up fairly well to the dive gear that inevitably gets bounched off the paint. It will patch up with a touch up, but does take some doing to make it look perfect.

For the deck non-skid, I use the fine AwlGrip griptex particles and have found the best practice for me is to mix them into the paint and apply with the roller. This has given me the most consistent and attractive non-skid on the decks. I have tried the shaker method and for me it just wasn't as even an application as mixed into the paint (maybe I'm just too shaky). To be truely consistent with the non-skid, I measure the griptex (a small kitchen measuring spoon) as I add it to the batch of paint for the deck and can then keep the proportion of particles consistent between batchs for an overall identical appearance on the whole boat. A little of the griptex goes a long way, so don't over do it. Test roll it until you get the right texture for you.

Either method probably creates a satisfactory end result and I've seen boats painted with either product that looked just great. So it comes down to the paint and technique that works best for you. Either product; the key is proper preperation - no doubt about that.
 
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For non skid I roll the paint and then shoot the dry nonskid particles out of a spray gun it's the best method I've found to get them even. I usually roll the paint on thin then shoot as much grit as the paint will acept and blow off the excess. Then one aditional coat the following day.

Brian Degulis
 
WOW you guys are great ,where would you suggest getting the texture is it crushed walnut shell sand or plastic
THANKS :)
 
Its part of the paint system. there is textures compatable with the paints so get the propper one with the paint.
 
You have to wear a respirator to work with any of this two part stuff. The written spec is to use a respirator with an alternate air source. You can use the 3M organic solvents cartridge style resp/mask. I prefer to maintain the option of killing my liver my way and it will not be from inhaling solvents.....Pat
 
Amen to that 2 or 3 VO on the rocks everynight does a fine job for me :D
 

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