Packing material, what to use?

[Capt. Tobb]

I called Viking (please, keep reading...lol) today to see what type packing they recommend for my 48 conv. They said to use 5/16" moly no graphite? Confused, I asked him if it was teflon, he said no, "its the black messy kind". Does anyone have an idea what he is talking about? Most of the black stuff that they have at the yard and supply places is graphite. thanks

Todd oops, I mean Tobb

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Sounds like graphite to me. Is it made with molybdenum? I don't know. What type of gland is it? It's probably the same Buck Algonquin Bronze Packing Boxes that we have. I would think you could repack with Gore GFO. I mean, what's the difference? It performs the same function. It's compressed to the shaft, which spins, and it keeps the water intrusion down to just what you need to keep it cool.

 

[Brian Degulis]

Ther is nothing specific about your stuffing box use whatever you think is best I'd go with Gor tex or equivelent.

Brian

 

[scottwvyc]

I am about to re pack my stuffing boxes in the next few days before my boat goes back in the water. Can anyone tell me where I can order the Gore GFO from ? The Gore web site has a list of retailers,but describe them as "braiders" and they all seem to make a different end product,( for pumps ect.) and I am confused. So I guess my question is where can I buy the correct GFO for a marine application? Thanks

 

[Beckytek]

Try this site. www.e-marine-inc.com

 

[Pascal]

GFO in any conventional stuffing box. almost leak free, easier to install.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

GFO is a brand of Gore packing. There are others out there as well. You might try Johnson. I just talked to a guy today who ordered some and it was half the price of the GFO. The Johnson Gore packing is supposedly what the Navy uses.

 

[fissioneng]

After some research, I bought the Johnson Duramax Ultra X. It is more widely distributed. Seems to work fine. They don't use Gore fibers, they have their own unique process for blending graphite and the fibers.

http://www.cgedwards.com/duramax/dur6.html

 

[bdewar]

Pascal, you made the statement that the GFO was easier to install. That sounds good, but could you please explain why.
Thanks

 

[Nonchalant1]

Easier to install because there's no wax on flax and it also bends and squashes into the space better. HOWEVER, unlike waxed flax or others, you have to be VERY careful how you tighten GFO. Leave it loose and dripping once per second or so when first installed. Tighten to once per 2 or 3 seconds at the dock. Run it 20 minutes at cruise speed, tightening only if it starts dripping too fast underway. Then retighten at the dock again to once per 10 seconds and run it againfor 20 minutes or more. Tighten at the dock to aboput 10 drips per minute and leave it that way for the next 2 or more hours of cruising. Then tighten to one drip per minute at the dock and it will probably just stop dripping completely as you use the boat.

If you try to tighten it tooo soon, it'll overheat and you'll have to pull it out and start over with new. Once instelled properly, it seems to last a veeruy long time with little or no dripping. It transfers heat to the metal in the gland better than flax so it doesn't need much water cooling effect.

Doug

 

[DCMY #92]

Pascal,

I just bought a reel of Duramax-Ultra X to repack all the glands on Loose Change. She is still on the hard for her refit. How do you suggest I tighten the glands on the hard so that I don't overdo it?

 

[fissioneng]

I have the Duramax installation instructions if you want them. Just send me an email. You can also get them from the Duramax folks. They say pretty much what Doug has already written.

I don't advise replacing shaft packing on the hard. The fine tuning really needs to be done in the water so you can tell how much is leaking. If you cut the rings ahead of time, it isn't that difficult assuming you can reach your stuffing boxes easily.

 

[scottwvyc]

Thanks to all the helpfull info from this forum I am going to repack my stuffing boxes myself for the first time. The boat is a 37c with 1 3/4" shafts, the drawing in the Hatteras Owner's manual calls for 3/8" packing material, the web site I am ordering the GFO from says that with 1 3/4" shafts it is probably 1/2" packing material. Can anyone with a similar size Hatt confirm the 3/8" sizing, I am guessing the owner's manual is correct.Also the drawing in the manual shows 3 rings of packing material per side, does this sound right? Thanks!!

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Thanks to all the helpfull info from this forum I am going to repack my stuffing boxes myself for the first time. The boat is a 37c with 1 3/4" shafts, the drawing in the Hatteras Owner's manual calls for 3/8" packing material, the web site I am ordering the GFO from says that with 1 3/4" shafts it is probably 1/2" packing material. Can anyone with a similar size Hatt confirm the 3/8" sizing, I am guessing the owner's manual is correct.Also the drawing in the manual shows 3 rings of packing material per side, does this sound right? Thanks!!

Our 36C is a 1986 model and I learnrd the hard way that the packing size is 3/8". I first purchased and tried to install 1/2". It became extremly hot in the first 10 minutes of slow speed operation. I then purchased and installed 3/8" GFO packing and it works great. No heat and no dripping. Good stuff.

 

[hcalmar]

I have a 37C 1979 and like Maynard used the wrong GFO origionally, but I think I eventually went with 1/4". I'll look around tonight and see if I have any paperwork.
Hal

 

[sgharford]

I have 1 ¾ shaft too on my 76 43 DC. Mine used 3/16” if I remember correct. I know this seems wicked small for 1 ¾ shaft but that’s what mine is, maybe PO replaced stuffing box. If you have a veneer caliper (measuring tool), you can determine the following way:

1) Measure diameter of threaded portion packing nut screws onto.
2) Measure diameter of shaft near packing location (I know you said 1 ¾, but measure anyway)
3) Subtract the difference and divide by two (2).
4) Multiply the number by 16.
5) Round number up or down. That number / 16 is your packing size (this worked for me).

I took on blind faith from reputable Hatteras source (not on this forum) that is was 3/8. So I trot down to the boat Saturday night at 10pm after the kids in bed to do the job while boat in the water. Amazed how easily old packing came out and that water rushing in was actually helpful in clearing out gland. SOB – now determine 3/8” twice the size and it’s now 11pm on a Saturday night and I have water gushing into my boat. No matter how hard you whack with a hammer – you cannot make 3/8” packing 3/16”. Man – did that suck.

Ps: I unwound 3-strand nylon rope and used it as temporary packing until I got right size next day. I think it’s worth taking the measurements first, even if boat out of the water.

 

[scottwvyc]

The packing material turned out to be 1/4" on my 1980 37c just like hcalmar said. Glad I didn't try that in the water after relying on the manual calling for 3/8". Thanks hcalmar! The boat is back in the water now and I took her for a short run, the strbd side feels a little too warm to touch and is not dripping at all so I will back it off some. The port side feels barley even warm and is not dripping at all. Should I back the port side off a little also? I used GFO Gore packing. Thanks

 

[hcalmar]

If it is not warm and not dripping do not worry, with time it will probable drip a little more. I have not touched mine in three years. Always cool, drips a little at the beginning of the season and then stops. Probable a fine mist in there keeping it cool.
Hal

 

[Maynard Rupp]

We now know that the Hatteras book, other standards, and other owner's recommendations won't guarantee that you have selected the correct size material. Measuring is the only way. In fact, if I do it again I will remove one ring before I buy the material. These boats have several different types of stuffing boxes. Ours has 2 ears with studs and nuts, others have a large threaded cap. I am convinced that GFO Gortex is a very good choice for packing material. I re-did ours last spring and have no dripping and they run cool.

 

[stormchaser]

I have the Duramax installation instructions if you want them. Just send me an email. You can also get them from the Duramax folks. They say pretty much what Doug has already written.

I don't advise replacing shaft packing on the hard. The fine tuning really needs to be done in the water so you can tell how much is leaking. If you cut the rings ahead of time, it isn't that difficult assuming you can reach your stuffing boxes easily.

Couldn't you install them but simply leave the nut barely threaded then tighten in the water while she's still in the sling...just in case? Having the rings already installed would mean you would only have a couple of seconds of water coming in rather than several minutes or more. Sometimes getting the old rings out is a PAIN and I'd rather have the security of doing it on the hard then doing the tightening in the water. See any problems with this approach?