Outrigger Education

[Traveler 45C]

I have a set of Lee’s outriggers and don’t have any experience with them other than lowering them down and raising them back up when fishing.

I need to pull mine off the boat for re-rigging and guy wire (whatever they’re called) adjustment and while there down do whatever else I need to do to them. Problem is I don’t ‘what else’ to do.

I’ve never had them down and I really don’t know what to do with them. I want to do the right thing so throw everything ya’ got at me. I’m all ears.

But first a few questions:

1. How do I get them off the boat? The aft support has what looks like a coupling that has a button for lowing them (going under bridges) but I don’t know if they are supposed to lower aft or forward. The port coupler looks broken. What is the procedure for taking them off the boat?

2. When adjusting the guy wires do I need to make the riggers straight (while lying on deck) or compensate for their own weight when mounted? What’s the procedure for these adjustments?

3. What do I need to do to clean/polish/preserve them?

4. Is there a proper way to re-rig them?

All tips will be appreciated.

 

[George]

first, get a replacement set of bushings from Lee. The bushings insulate the bolts from the mounts etc. I have found it easier to make all your disconects from the bridge connections "on" the outrigger and leave the aft support and extension bar alone. When replacing the wires, I have simply counted the # of rotations you make on each turn clasp and just keep it even on all 4, but don't over tighten. If the aluminum is in good shape I recomend Colonite Aluminum wax. If they are not, Woody Wax treatment for aluminum or alumashine or guard. It's in most marinas.
As far as re-rigging them for fishing, it's a good time to do a couple of things to change your set up. I used the new blue color mono along with Hal Locks.Hal locks come in single, double or triple lines depending on your need. I use the triple. I drilled a hole in the deck, and 5200 a stainless or plastic furrel into to hole to seal it up, and ran a 1/4 nylon rope from the hal lock to a lock clamp mounted under the gunnel out of sight. You can find the lock clamps in a sailboat store cheaper then a west marine like place. THis set up allows you to keep the lines closer to the pit while fishing and loosen them up while running. THis is a common practice now aday and if you look around the marina's, a lot of the new boats rig up this way. It allows for a lot of flexibility and ease of use.
Make sure all your connections to rigger clips are made with decent ball bearing swivels. This prevents the clip from turning and getting your fishing line tangled and broke.

 

[Banshee36]

I concur with the above statement and would like to add that you should add pulleys to all the rings that the halyard goes thru and Use 600 # mono, L&P sells a 5 pound coil in may dfferent colors. You can crank down on it and it will not walk like the lighter line.
JW

 

[Genesis]

I prefer spectra braid for the rigging lines - it has zero stretch which makes things work MUCH better, as it allows for a nice constant tension on the halyards.

As for the tuning, its not hard - but is best done on the boat with the riggers mounted. You CAN do it ashore, but I wouldn't, as the tune will change some.

Do replace the bushings and make sure you get the right cables if you're replacing them - I don't know how Lee is with this but Rupp has a habit of sending the wrong ones, which can make your life REAL interesting.

 

[Karl]

I had to do the same thing for my outriggers this past year. For what it's worth, I went to a local rod shop (not a discount store) and they told me step by step what to do and provided all the materials; the cost was nominal and worth their advice. When I had further questions, they answered them all. I'm happy with the results.

I did not take the outriggers off the boat, I just lowered them back, and because of my dock arrangement I was able to reach everything. The button you saw was to press-in to lower the riggers, but be sure you have someone helping you to lower them the first time since they can be very heavy even though there made of aluminum, they are intended to lower to the rear. If one button is broken, you need to replace it since you don't want any accidents when under way; I had a problem with one malfunctioning and I was like a one arm paper hanger flying from a trapeze. If the rod shop handles your make riggers (mine are Lee's in Miami), they can get the parts for you or you can contact the manufacturer directly; in my case, I went through a boat discount house to get the rigger parts because they were much cheaper that way, but you should get parts made by the manufacturer. Making sure you have the right specifications is very important though.