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outback fx2532mt inverter (sealed)

  • Thread starter Thread starter jusbumn
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jusbumn

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
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58' YACHT FISHERMAN (1970 - 1981)
Is anyone using a Outback fx2532 MT 2500 watt inverter. I selected the 2500 watt vs the 3232 because the 2532 is sealed and the 3232 is vented. I am thinking of adding a separate battery bank of 8d's with a Mate II. Also, does anyone see any problems? I have a 1972 58 Hatteras Yachtfish with 871 naturals and a 20k generator. I was thinking that it would have to be set up as if you had a third generator???
 
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Have you already purchased the 2532? If not, I recommend you purchase the 3232. Being vented is a good thing - it will keep the inverter cooler and 3200W is better suited to a boat that size as far as capacity is concerned.

As far as setup, you can set up the inverter in several ways but as a 3rd generator on a boat that size is not what I'd choose because you can easily exceed the inverter's capacity - especially with a 2500W unit. However, if you are prepared to carefully monitor what you operate with the inverter on, certainly you can do that. But consider that a microwave and a hair dryer at the same time would trip the breaker.

To me the best way to do it is to select which circuits will be "inverter circuits" and make the necessary wiring adjustments to do that and then let the inverter be totally automatic, which is how it is designed to work. That is MY preferred method but others feel differently about it, wanting to use manual control. SO it's a matter of what works best for your use.
 
looking into installing a outback 3232 on my 58 hatt also , was trying to find wireing diagrams to see if I can do this myself which Im sure I can but was looking into the different ways that it can be wired , anybody no were I can look at instillation diagrams?
 
8D's are 12v batteries. The 2532 is a 32v inverter. They will not work together.
 
Have you already purchased the 2532? If not, I recommend you purchase the 3232. Being vented is a good thing - it will keep the inverter cooler and 3200W is better suited to a boat that size as far as capacity is concerned.

As far as setup, you can set up the inverter in several ways but as a 3rd generator on a boat that size is not what I'd choose because you can easily exceed the inverter's capacity - especially with a 2500W unit. However, if you are prepared to carefully monitor what you operate with the inverter on, certainly you can do that. But consider that a microwave and a hair dryer at the same time would trip the breaker.

To me the best way to do it is to select which circuits will be "inverter circuits" and make the necessary wiring adjustments to do that and then let the inverter be totally automatic, which is how it is designed to work. That is MY preferred method but others feel differently about it, wanting to use manual control. SO it's a matter of what works best for your use.[/QUOT




Mike, couldn't one size a fuse or a circuit breaker in the 3rd generator toavoid overloading the inverter.

Not to be a pain, but let me add that a sealed unit may be preferable to a vented unit. If you are cruising in salt water, the corrosion caused by the salt environment can cause more damage to circuitry that the heat. Typically the manufacturer adds more heat sinking to a sealed unit to compensate for not being vented. AS was discussed in another thread, I would not mount an inverter in the engine room due to the heat. Most of the Hatts have places where the inverter can be mounted.

Many seem to feel the cost of the wire, is a deal breaker when mounting the inverter, further from the batteries. True the longer wire needs to be of a larger gauge, the cost difference is not that much compared to the cost of having the inverter repaired after warranty.

I can't recall which company offers an option of have the electronics coated adding extra protection from corrosion.
 
Add batteries where? Install the inverter where? Wire it to?

Start with a list of what you need to run and for how long. Once you have your load calculated look for an inverter to meet the need. Then you can look at how to wire it in.
 
"Not to be a pain, but let me add that a sealed unit may be preferable to a vented unit. If you are cruising in salt water, the corrosion caused by the salt environment can cause more damage to circuitry that the heat."

If you are uncomfortable with a vented unit, go with a sealed one but I'd still recommend something with more capacity than 2500W.

The inverter will have it's own circuit breaker as part of the installation so there is no concern about overloading the inverter itself. I believe that a 2500W inverter will be popping that breaker on a regular basis unless you are very careful what you are running. The 3200…not so much; we have never popped its breaker in the 7 years operation since I installed it. You COULD cause it to pop but the circuits it controls are not circuits that normally would be used at the same time for the heavier loads.

For example, off the top of my head, the inverter circuits on our boat operate the outlets that provide power to: microwave, coffee maker, fridge, TV/stereo system, one wall outlet in the master state room, outlet in the master head, the davit…and probably a couple of other things that I can't think of.
A 3200W inverter will run our coffee maker and the microwave on high at the same time which is a reasonably common operation. A 2500 won't. Again, not saying you CAN"T pop the breaker on a 3232 - if you added a hair dryer, that would do it - but we have yet to have it happen.

As far as concerns re heat - a sealed unit might be more sensitive so that might be a concern but our vented unit has been in the genny room for 7 years with no difficulties.

Installation is not difficult IF you are familiar/comfortable with working with electricity at the "it can kill you" level. If you are not comfortable doing so, I wouldn't recommend inverter installation as the place to learn. :) It becomes a bit "fiddly" if you want to split an existing system to have some circuits on the inverter and others not, as opposed to using the inverter as a "generator" for the entire 120vac system. But that's where the inverter capacity becomes a major imitating factor…not to mention battery capacity!
 
8D's are 12v batteries. The 2532 is a 32v inverter. They will not work together.

Sorry for the error. I am putting in (4) 8 volt batteries. It seems from the responses, that there is now a question of deciding to go with the 3232 or with the sealed 2532. I will be mostly in the Caribbean. Should I give up the 700 watts with the 3232 and go with the 2532 because it is sealed and not vented?
 
If you are mounting the inverter in an area that is free from combustible gases, I would go with the vented unit as most all of us have done. Either unit will probably work just fine, but the 3232 will obviously give you the option of drawing more amperage at any one time.

My 3232 is in my generator room and has worked flawlessly for several years now. I also have the Mate which I think is pretty much essential because it allows you to monitor the operation of the inverter and adjust the charge settings, etc. I you really want to go "all out", get the "FlexNet" too and you can monitor amp/hrs in and out.
 
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The thing you need to be concerned with in the Caribbean is they use 50HZ power where the US is on 60Hz power. I would suggest checking the spec., and/or call outback. My preference would be go with the larger unit.
 
Here’s an idea from a location standpoint, and this is just an idea; I think it will work for me, but again, I’m still in the idea and planning stages. Ideally, we’d like to have the inverter in a non-engine room compartment, preferably in an air conditioned area, right? At the same time, we want it close to the battery bank, which in my case will be on the starboard side of the boat because that’s the side where I have room for another bank of batteries, and I need to cure my list to port that the new galley emphasized, right?

Somewhat recently, I opened that compartment that is forward of the starboard engine (accessed while standing in the engine room) and it revealed a nice sized compartment under the curved stairs that go from the pilothouse down to what would be the galley in a 58YF. I found our old compass in there. Having removed the Wood Freeman system, this compass was no longer in use, so we removed it. I’m thinking that spot might make a nice home for the inverter unit as it’s just on the other side of the wall from the batteries, yet not in an engine compartment. I can insert a vent grille in one of the risers of the stairs to give it breathing room and access to some nice cool air conditioned air from the rest of the boat.

If you’re not using the Wood Freeman system anymore and that is where your compass is/was, you might want to take a peek in there and see if it would work in your boat. Just an idea to toss out there.
 
I want to thank all of you for your replies. I was back and forth on 3232 vs 2532 sealed unit. I have just ordered the 3232 and Mate 2 from Ecodirect.com. I spoke with Danielle and she was most helpful and pleasant to work with. It was the lowest price I could find. $1770 + 212 for the Mate 2. When it arrives I will get a pro to put it in. Never liked electric...was actually hit with 210 one time.

Again, Thanks!!
 
I want to thank all of you for your replies. I was back and forth on 3232 vs 2532 sealed unit. I have just ordered the 3232 and Mate 2 from Ecodirect.com. I spoke with Danielle and she was most helpful and pleasant to work with. It was the lowest price I could find. $1770 + 212 for the Mate 2. When it arrives I will get a pro to put it in. Never liked electric...was actually hit with 210 one time.

Again, Thanks!!

Why not have the installer supply the unit. Then he can plan the job and it usually comes out better. He will make sure he has all the right cable and termination items and save time from running around looking for things like strain relief and switches.
 
Is anyone using a Outback fx2532 MT 2500 watt inverter. I selected the 2500 watt vs the 3232 because the 2532 is sealed and the 3232 is vented. I am thinking of adding a separate battery bank of 8d's with a Mate II. Also, does anyone see any problems? I have a 1972 58 Hatteras Yachtfish with 871 naturals and a 20k generator. I was thinking that it would have to be set up as if you had a third generator???
I have two fx3232's set up with a single Mate, and it works great, using 12 AGM batts as house power. This gives me double charging amps, which I need because don't need gen for AC (Pacific Northwest)
 
I've just ordered a 2532 and the Mate2 with a battery temp sensor. I am concerned about using the open unit in a salt water environment. For now if I need more current, which I think will be infrequent, I will run the generator.

I plan to power the unit from Panel 2, which is primarily the AC system, and feed it through one of the 120V 50A feeds. That way I will have both "phases" of the panel hot. Panels 1 and 3 can be fed from the outback (keeping in mind the power output of the unit). I will need to manually turn the hot water heater on and off when I run the generator, or automate it at some later date.

If I use this as much as I expect to, I will add a second outback and the hub next winter, giving me 5KW of inverter and 60A worth of charger. One of the principal reasons for doing this is that I currently have a two output charger that overcharges the starting bank and under charges the house bank. I want to get one charger per bank to eliminate that problem, and the Outback will do that.

Doug
Beach Girl
1986 53MY
 

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