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Outback 3232 3rd battery bank question

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jrmccoy

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
Gentlemen,

Haven't posted in a while, but am back to work on Maggie Mae.

Following the guidance of the best and brightest on this forum, I installed an outback 3232 inverter on my 1980 Hat 53'my with all the 32v legacy stuff intact as far as main alternators, starters and some other items. Have been delighted with it, and has functioned beautifully as a whole boat inverter for nearly 3 years

Setup is:
Have Two (2) 4 x 8v=32v banks....one bank is Interstate Batteries, and one is Napa Batteries...each bank less than 2 years old. The banks are set up to be charged by the main alternators while underway...and that works perfectly well even on longer days. I have a 1/2/1+2 switch on these banks.

Ok, so to the part that is going to make the senior members shake their heads, and makes me blush to tell it, but I'm not going to sugar coat it...I let the batteries get low on water over the summer when I was away from the boat, and I forgot to check on them before going out. Well, I did check the outback mate to make sure I had good voltage before we left, but that didn't cover my problem. Further, my genset is in pieces in the basement (subject for a different post) and so until I get that sorted I've got no way except the mains to recharge the banks.

So, set up on the hook Sunday for what was (until I tried to leave) a great day. The inverter does what its supposed to do and shuts down with (normally) enough juice to start my mains, but in their water depleted state, they didn't have the guts...either banks (including bridging them). In short I was dead in the water. After suffering the humiliation and anger of my situation, and waiting 3 hours for Tow Boat US...I PROMISED myself that wouldn't happen again.

So in pursuit of that goal, I went out and bought a 3rd bank of Bad A Trojan T-890's, and have a box all set up for them in the basement....but (here is the stupidist part of all)...I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do with them. have a general notion that I'm going to add these into my bank mix and until I get my genset back up (meaning new genset with most recent quote $28,000 yes that's thousand), it's the inverter that's going to have to do the heavy lifting.

So, my first thought is to isolate them, but then the mains wont recharge them and I'd need a switch that would be 1/2/3/1+2+3 etc. which I've never seen and don't think exists. Another thought is to add them to one of the existing banks, making an extra large 8 battery 32v bank (somehow) but then I'd have a monster 8 battery bank, with two different brands of batteries, and one 4 battery bank, and the alternator would have a hell of a time with the big bank maybe? Any of the configs I come up with seems to have a problem or problems.

The obvious solution with a genset would be to find a way to use all the banks on the inverter and recharge with genset (started by its own battery) as needed. I am working on the solution to the genset. I'd say that is realistically 6 mos away. One of the ideas I have is just turn the inverter off when I go on the hook...the refrigerators wouldn't go that warm over 3-4 hours, I'd still have water with 32v pump onboard, but wouldn't work very well if I wanted to stay over night.

So what would you guys do in my situation?
 
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If you really followed the best advice that would never have happened. I don't care how many people say differently you DO NOT tie all the banks together.

How many times have you been told that the 32 volt start bank can be used for an inverter? How many people do it and have problems?

The truth is the best way to wire in an inverter system is a separate bank and if the alternator is used to charge it a solenoid that opens so it can not be discharged.

To make you feel better on of the big posters of how smart the was to the the banks together was dead on the dock with no way to charge or start for a while because he did that and had ac power issues too.
 
Why do you need so many banks? You need a stating bank and a house bank. Not sure what is driving your 3rd bank design. You should definitely have a large house bank. 4 x 8D is not enough capacity to run overnight. How many AH do you have with the 4 battery setup you have?

Also you should really take out any bad batteries before you cause greater issues elsewhere. For the money you will thank yourself later. Take out the trash!

Finally, What is your cutoff voltage set at on the mate? 29.5? For the most part by the time you hit that you are too late and are 100% depleted. I would consider setting it up higher.
 
I run my Outback on the House bank. The start bank is only used for starting, not inverting. I have never had an issue.
 
If you really followed the best advice that would never have happened. I don't care how many people say differently you DO NOT tie all the banks together.

How many times have you been told that the 32 volt start bank can be used for an inverter? How many people do it and have problems?

The truth is the best way to wire in an inverter system is a separate bank and if the alternator is used to charge it a solenoid that opens so it can not be discharged.

To make you feel better on of the big posters of how smart the was to the the banks together was dead on the dock with no way to charge or start for a while because he did that and had ac power issues too.


So, after the chiding Scott, you did end up giving me some good advice that I sought...being the solenoid. I have no issues with the concept of isolating the inverter bank from the starting bank, I was simply unaware of a device that will allow charging of the inverter bank by the alternators, and still allow it to be isolated from the starting bank. Now I know, and will pursue that angle. Thank you.
 
Why do you need so many banks? You need a stating bank and a house bank. Not sure what is driving your 3rd bank design. You should definitely have a large house bank. 4 x 8D is not enough capacity to run overnight. How many AH do you have with the 4 battery setup you have?

Also you should really take out any bad batteries before you cause greater issues elsewhere. For the money you will thank yourself later. Take out the trash!

Finally, What is your cutoff voltage set at on the mate? 29.5? For the most part by the time you hit that you are too late and are 100% depleted. I would consider setting it up higher.


On the Trojan Bank I have now, spec sheets show it (all 4 combined) at 23 AH at 25 amps and close to 9 AH at 56 amps. For the cutoff voltage I programmed it two years ago and will check it. I'll take your advice and raise it up to about 32v if its lower. Based on the responses to this post, I now know that there is a solenoid which will allow one way charging from the alternators while still isolating the house bank from starting bank. I will now pursue that design. Thank you for your kind input.
 
Follow up question to the Outback 3232 users...in practice, how do you find that spec amp hours of well maintained batteries translates into actual usage?

I know its based on how many "things" the inverter is configured to run (I took the run more things for a shorter period approach), but generally speaking, if my bank is rated to run 23AH at 25 amp discharge rate....how would that compare with banks that most of you are running for the house? Is it not enough, about right?
 
Controlling the solenoid is the magic. I use the victron systems to open and close solenoids based on battery neneds with a BMS.

I dont know if you can do the same with the outback.
 
I have nothing wise to say regarding banks and your Outback. I do have one thing that you might want to add to your boat to get you started when everything has gone bad (especially until your generator is fixed or replaced). You can use a 'large size' 24 volt jumper pack. You have to put the cables on such that it is jumping just 3 of your 8 volt batteries (which is 24 volts). Before I replaced my batteries, I found this $300 device a 'tow saver'.

https://www.uniquetruck.com/product...8kTtNBJfPvMJ6jP3lcSsTWtaFP3O3NOhoCQlUQAvD_BwE
 
Redundancy is critical... i want each main and genset to have its own start bank, separate from a house bank and if you have an inverter it should have its own bank. I dont want to use the house bank for inverter as the house bank needs to power critical things like bilge pumps.

Its not like our boats dont have space for batteries...
 
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Redundancy is critical... i want each main and genset to have its own start bank, separate from a house bank and if you have an inverter it should have its own bank. I dont want to use the house bank for inverter as the house bank needs to power critical things like bilge pumps.

Its not like our boats dont have space for batteries...

X2 - that is the approach we decided on last year. New dedicated bank for inverting. It has been run down twice (once during IRMA, and once when someone shut off our shore power while we were away). I was glad it was not the 32V house bank for the reasons Pascal noted...
 
Thank you gentlemen for your kind expertise. As the consensus is to dedicate a Bank to the inverter, that’s what I’m going to do with this shiney New Bank of 4 Trojans T-890’s I just staged in the basement, and I’ll isolate the starters. Spec sheet says I have about 340 minutes capacity (close to 6 hours) at 25 amps rate..does this seem to be adequate for an inverter Bank in your estimation?
 
How does that correlate to your power needs?

That's not a strange question. If you do a power needs calculation you will k ow what is needed.
 
Hatteras put the systems monitor and the bilge pumps on the start(stbd bank) and not on the house bank. You can use the house bank for your inverter without jeopardizing "critical systems". You also would never draw an inverter bank below 50% so the point is moot anyway. I see no need for a dedicated inverter bank when we have excess capacity just sitting there in the current house bank which is charging off of the engines when underway. Why add more cost, weight, and maintenance when what is already there will do the job for 95% of owners. Heck, you can also configure the auto-start function to start the genny and charge the bank when it gets to a preset level as well.
 
Depends on use and location.

My customers sailboat has 720 ah at 12 volts available on the inverter plus to house and start batteries run the pumps, lights and fridge.

They charge solar, alternators and chargers from ac systems but plan on staying on the hook quite a bit.

What's the total usable ah of your inverter bank?
 
275 x 32 volts ÷2 (50%) = 4400 watts.

That's not a huge amount of power and chargingead acid is not as efficient as newer technologies.

The system on the sailboat is 900 ah x 12 volts with 80% usable for 8640 watts and efficient recharging.
 
I have seen approaches that add to one of the two banks to make a house bank. For example, rather than 4 and 4, 4 and 8, with the 8 being the house bank. Lithium is cool, but I can't yet find one that is cost effective against lead-acid. They last 3 times longer, and cost 4 or 5 times as much.:) I think once they drop another 25%, that will be the end of lead-acid, but of course, the lead-acid will just drop 25% as well.:)
 
LiFePo lasts 10 times longer than flooded lead acid. A standard flooded better is about 350 to 500 cycles while a LiFePo is rated for 5000.

They also charge much faster, are more efficient and do not need to be maintained at full charge to prevent sulphation.

Also keep in mind the systems are more intelligent and address each cell individually through the battery monitor circuit.

It is an up front cost but if you want the power to stay extended times off the generator it's the most efficient way.
 

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